Need help with frist SAFC install and tune

[Norcalrallyist]

So heres whats going on. I have the evo3 255hp and afpr installed. Im going to install the safc and the 650cc today with a repgrogrammed chip that has injector compensation for 650cc. Im also going to be using TMO logger on a laptop. So I found the post about tuning with safc but it doesnt really give you a detailed desciption of what to log and what numbers I should be shooting for for specific rpm ranges etc. So I was hoping someone might be able to help me out a little more with some details.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Basically with tuning you want to keep a constant A/F ratio around 12:1 at the highest and you want to eliminate knock and any hitches in your powerband. If you have a pocketlogger or something to log your settings that is the best bet. That way you can check, knock, duty cycle and timing advance. Tuning is all about trial and error. Read about it and set it where you think will be good but won't put your car in danger or harming anything. Tuning with an AFC can be difficult though because of the 650cc injectors. Once you get to the 650cc injectors it is time to upgrade to DSMLink or a Wideband of sorts.

 

[MyBeatGSX]

The dyno is your friend. I know many people on here are fans of street tuning, but I'd advise against it. I've done both (not on this car, but turbo hondas) and there is no replacement for a dyno. Logging is good, but the seat of the pants power numbers are horribly inaccurate at best. Just because you nailed a theoretically based a/f target at all rpm points doesn't mean you made the most power possible.

 

[Staytuned]

Basically with tuning you want to keep a constant A/F ratio around 12:1 at the highest and you want to eliminate knock and any hitches in your powerband.

Do not under any circumstances start your tune for 12:1. Start some where around 10.8:1 and work your way up from there. You need to be looking for a nice gradual increase in timing to redline. When you first go WOT you will see your timing drop low to somewhere around 9 then it should gradually rise all the way up to redline. If you see any dips after this point it might be knock or high coolant temps or high intake temps, all these can be reasons for pulled timing. When you do a log save timing, rpms, knock (if you can) and front O2's for now. If you have wideband log that not front O2s. The more parameters you log the slower the sample rate will be.....meaning less data per second.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

I just recommended he get it as close to 12:1 without going over. 11.7 is what I tune to. I never said start at 12:1. And I have been on a dyno and tuned on the street as well and with a pocketlogger, SAFC 2 and a Wideband the dyno was a waste of time. I improved 3hp and 7ft lbs. of torque. As long as you know what you are doing street tuning can be very helpful if you know how and have the right equipment. Not saying dyno's aren't good because they are but for the money sometime's it's best to find someone who know's what they are doing and get the right equipment first.

 

[Norcalrallyist]

I got it installed and zeroed it out and am running stock boost and 43 psi no vacum on afpr. I dont know where the ratio 12:1 or 10:1 comes frrom or how to tune towards it. I need some serious faq help.

 

[Staytuned]

If you don't have a wide band disregard the the AF ratio and tune with the front O2 values for now. Tune for .94 volts and then go from there but don't go below .92 volts for now. I have seen accurate wide band numbers of 11.5:1 to 12:1 in the narrow band .92 volts. Watch for knock like I said.

Stock fuel pressure for a 1G is 38 psi BTW.

 

[Norcalrallyist]

what sort of afpr settings should I be making when Im shooting for .94? Obviously with vacum hose on the afpr. Should I raise the boost go fora log and adjust accordingly and raise the boost again and go for another run until I get the boost I want? Also what kind of boost should I shoot for with stock side mount? I havent installed my fmic yet

 

[Staytuned]

Base fuel pressure for a 1G is 38 psi with the vacuum line off. It's Ok to have it higher but remember that it makes your fuel injectors flow more fuel, so you will have to compensate for this when you tune. Leave your AFC setting at zero for now and the set the boost for something moderate like 15 psi. Do a log and see what kind of knock-timing and O2 readings you are getting. If you're getting no knock-good rich AF ratio and a nice timing curve turn up the boost a little and do another log or you can lean it out a bit if you're happy with the boost you're at now. But the end result should be no knock .94v O2 reading and timing somewhere around 17-18* at redline (higher timing isn't too bad as long as it doesn't cause knock, I've seen 20-21* before).