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I bought my car with no power or get up and go with throttle.

Need some better clarification on what is going on here. I'm confused because you say "no power" so I instantly think it doesn't start. Then you go and say "get up and go" which just mean's it's slow. I'll assume you are able to drive it, but what PSI are you running at when it feels "slow" and the RPMs as well. Do you have a log (if applicable)?

It's a 6 bolt swap yet I see the 2g CAS. Was the front case and block modified to allow the 2g harness on it?

Have you done a boost leak test at all and to what PSI?
 
well I will try to switch out to my buddies UPIC with his bov. Maybe its my setup now, that is causing the issues.

When I got the car it had no balls, but the BOV was very nice and sounded great.

Now, I replaced all FMIC and piping and turbo, new gaskets, full tune up, ect ect and NO bov noise what so ever and no boost.

Im going to switch out to a different UPIC today and report back
 
umm, if your BOV isnt opening, the UICP shouldnt be the problem, its either a bad BOV or a bad boost/vacuum source to the BOV. I recommend you listen to the other people that are trying to help you and do the BLT. If you arent getting any boost, and your car runs like poop, then its a good bet you have a massive boost leak somewhere.
 
+1 on boost leak. I made a tester and it sits in my car and ANY time I have the slightest feeling I have a leak. I pull into the closest gas station and test it. Takes 5-10 min and gives you peace of mind. If your BOV is't working and you have worked on the pipes I would bet $20 this is your problem.
 
You may want to do a BLT. how much psi are you running the turbo at?

I dont know. I just got it and installed it. I guess according to JuGs on here, it's set at 10psi. So far I havnt run any boost at it, im so worried about all the maintenance first before I get on it.

I noticed that my turbo drain line was dripping oil out from the turbo side. I guess I need to find me a new drain tube and bolts and gaskets:barf:
 
I know about the BLT guys I mean seriously do we need 10 replies with the same post? I have to wait for the weekend to do the leak test because I wont have time till then, plus I have a buddy coming over who has done it before.

JuGs setup Im borrowing for time being

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4 busted manifold bolts. I know i will loose power beause of this leaking, but not like the way my car is now, NO WAY

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I even went back to stock turbo intake, just to by pass all the clamps and whatnot on my old setup. We will find this boost leak if it kills me
 

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Everyone is saying the same thing I had told you. BLT and a leakdown test is what we will have to do. Compression wasnt bad so thats all good but leakdown test will tell us alot more. The turbo is only set at 10psi. I had great boost in the car when I had mine running that turbo. But its between a blt and leakdown. I have a BLT so Ill bring it with me when I come over. Did you wna extra cheeses on the BLT also? LOL anyways yea we will figure it out soon.
 
Everyone is saying the same thing I had told you. BLT and a leakdown test is what we will have to do. Compression wasnt bad so thats all good but leakdown test will tell us alot more. The turbo is only set at 10psi. I had great boost in the car when I had mine running that turbo. But its between a blt and leakdown. I have a BLT so Ill bring it with me when I come over. Did you wna extra cheeses on the BLT also? LOL anyways yea we will figure it out soon.

If the compression is fine why are you doing a leak down test?
If the car is not bucking under load more than likely it is NOT a boost leak.
(I did not read the link, so if the OP has something other than stock maf, please disregard my second bullet, I would then agree with a leak.)
As stated somewhere above about a "6bolt with 2g cas" im going with timing issue.
 
Im so drunk right niow. U si ready too fix the problemzs

Haha. Good times. Anyway, when you sober up, I think a boost leak and those missing manifold fasteners are two big problems. You say you haven't really gotten any turbo time, so the exhaust leak might not be a big issue yet. It will be when you're trying to build boost.

The other glaring issue is that your BOV isn't recirculated. Could be the cause of all your woes, actually. Aside from that, recheck all the vacuum lines to be sure they're going where they should and that there are no leaks.
 
I am a little surprised that you have not blown the exhaust manifold gasket yet. Even having a loose bolt can cause issues, having four missing ones is bound to be a problem.
 
even with good compression a leakdown test will say even more. A car I worked on a while back had 180 all 4 and oil rings were bad. With a leak down it can tell you exactly where and what if theres a for sure issue with the internals. A compression test can only tell if rings or valves are bad/bent or even a HG issue.
 
With the 4 broken studs on the exhaust manifold, your car will lose a WHOLE LOT of power. My car had only 1 stud broken. I thought I set it to 11 psi but after I fixed it my boost went up to 14 psi and it runs a whole lot better. Fix that and get back to us. Trust me you will be glad you fixed it. Just that missing 4 studs will cause a huge power loss.

Oh yeah, and you should get a boost gauge. Also recirculate the BOV.
 
UPDATE:

While removing timing components, noticed it is a 6 bolt swap and BSE, and using stock 2g intake manifold. With the stock 2g manifold on a 6 bolt, will that steal power?

Is there a difference in timing belt 6 bolt or 7 bolt
 
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UPDATE:

While removing timing components, noticed it is a 6 bolt swap and BSE, and using stock 2g intake manifold. With the stock 2g manifold on a 6 bolt, will that steal power?

You have a 2g head, thats not an issue.

Is there a difference in timing belt 6 bolt or 7 bolt

Same belt, just a different hydraulic tensioner.
 

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after reviewing the VFAQ, I guess we had the oil pan backwards such as identifing 6bolt or 7bolt. So i guess I do have a 7 bolt. Today we will be redoing the timng again, and also a boost leak test
 
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