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Need help fast with turbo rebuild!!!!!!

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combatmedic

10+ Year Contributor
217
1
Jan 27, 2010
Fountain, Colorado
So I am rebuilding my 14b and my question is when I put everything back together and I am tightening the nut on the compressor wheel (intake side) is it supposed to be tightened so that the wheel does not spin freely?? Or is the wheel not supposed to spin by turning it?????

Nobody
 
I just wanted to put my theory out there on the balancing thing.

Here's the deal....ALL factory turbo wheels (compressor and turbine) are balanced within spec when you buy them. You can theoretically install two balanced parts and the balance will be within spec, OR you can get the rotating assembly balanced on a TurboPac....OR get the entire assembled center housing balanced on a VSR to assure perfect balance once the turbo is assembled. VSR balancing is crucial for ball bearing turbos where the shaft is not floating on oil....any vibration on a ball bearing unit can mean the rotating assembly does not achieve full rotating speed.

You should NOT change the compressor wheel and re-use an existing lock nut if there are balance grinds present on the lock nut. Once the nut is ground, the compressor wheel that it is mated to cannot change and alignment is CRUCIAL or you risk putting the turbo at more of an unbalance than if the nut had no balance grinds at all.

It should also be noted that balance is much more crucial on turbos with smaller rotating assemblies because of the higher speed that the shaft rotates at. For instance, balance is much more crucial on a T25 than on a GT42 because the GT42 may never reach the shaft speed where severe balance issues would present themselves...therefore the T25 will have a much lower unbalance tolerance than the GT42.


There is no real answer- guys are going to always insist that you can't rebuild your own turbo because it needs balanced, meanwhile I've had rotating assemblies come back from the balance shop with very little visible correction. In the meantime, I'll continue to keep my customers happy by offering my 7 years of experience at rebuilding their turbos with no wheel damage at prices that can't be beaten unless they decide to tackle the work on their own.
 
well I got the turbo back in today and its running better and im able to boost now but I am still smoking. It is not as much but its still there and it smells different, its burns my eyes when I try to smell it. I will check it out tomorrow when its light to see what it looks like.
 
Hate to say it, but it is a possibility that this one is either not seated right still allowing blow by or it's the rings or valve seals.

Before tearing it all apart again try doing a compression test then a leak down test to rule out internals. What's your oil pressure entering the turbo and are you using an inline oil filter at all?
 
We mentioned in one thread it may take 40 miles or so for the seals to seat in the turbo,after a rebuild.
This is news to me.

There's nothing to "seat" with a turbine seal....it's not like a set of piston rings- it either seals or it doesn't.

Mainly if you're seeing smoke after a new turbo install or rebuild, it's from leftover oil in the exhaust system and / or catalytic converter from the previous turbo.
 
I no that the turbo was bad because the heat shield behind the turbine wheel had a much bigger hole worn into it than is supposed to be in it. I will do a compression test again but the last one I did was within specs. So if it is leftover oil if I keep driving it is it possible that the smoke will eventually stop??

its not smoking as much anymore but if I rev up the engine is when the smoke comes out

I am not running an inline oil filter and the stock gauge shows my oil pressure normal
 
It can take up to 500 miles for any smoke to disappear completely. Think of how much smoke a teaspoonful of oil dripped upon a hot manifold makes as a result of a leaking valve cover gasket....then think about the quart of motor oil that made it's way into your exhaust system and how long it will take to completely burn away.

If you're still seeing oil smoke, add a restrictor to your oil supply line or move the feed to the head as a 14B was intended to be fed.
 
ok thanks man ill try to move the line to the head. Can I just run the steel braided line I have to the side of the head? Then I just plug the hole near my oil filter?

disregard that last question I found the answer, I will order the 1g line eventually.
What if I use that seafoam stuff, will that clean the oil out of my exhaust??
 
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