Need help diagnosing engine problem- VIDEO

[klipschaudio]

Need help to figure out why my engine is running rich, and like this, check out video. I will paypal 30$ to anyone who helps me solve this problem! Stuff done to car is listed below. Thanks in advance.

Car: 99 gsx, 50K miles.

Mods: Hard intake pipe
1G BOV (Recirculated)
Removed BCS* restrictor
8.5 MM spark plugs
NGK spark plugs
Boost gauge

Recent fixes: Head gasket
Alternator and belt
Timing belt

The car has been running fine on this setup with no problems previously.
I recently upgraded to a ported 14b ported turbo and a mbc, also, I dont know if this makes a diff or not, I grounded the positive bolt on the alternator when I was taking it out and it sparked a bit, no fuses blew though, and no side effects is seemed, the problem started about 3-4miels afterwards when I put in a diff alternator and drove the car. I would try to set boost at 15psi, but when the car warmed up the boost would go all the way to about 20psi, it happened a couple of times, and every time I would let go off gas instantly. I've only put about 20-30miles on the 14B before the car started experiencing problems. First it would only rev to 5K then studder down, then 3.5K rpm, and today it only goes to about 2.5K then studders down.

Tings checked:
Timing GOOD
Spark plugs GOOD
Spark plug wires GOOD
Ecu GOOD
O2 sensor etc... GOOD (according to OBD)
Thermostat GOOD
MAF GOOD (makes a diff if I unplug it)
MAF connector GOOD
Compression GOOD (Although a little high now at 180 due to carbon build up)
Leak down test GOOD
Fuel pressure solenoid GOOD
Injectors GOOD
Fuel pump relay GOOD

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[klipschaudio]

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind as my last resort.

 

[kenamond]

I'm curious if it's the FPR. But that got me thinking. Do you have any leaks on the FPR vaccuum line? Maybe the boost gauge line is cracked and leaking; if that reference pressure from the IM is closer to zero due to a leak, that would cause you to run rich at idle and lean when boosting.

I'm suprised you haven't thrown a fuel trim code, but I'm sure there's a reason just like there's a reason for your problem.

 

[voodoogsx]

I'm curious if it's the FPR. But that got me thinking. Do you have any leaks on the FPR vaccuum line? Maybe the boost gauge line is cracked and leaking; if that reference pressure from the IM is closer to zero due to a leak, that would cause you to run rich at idle and lean when boosting.

I'm suprised you haven't thrown a fuel trim code, but I'm sure there's a reason just like there's a reason for your problem.

I'm really surprised he hasn't thrown other codes....usually you can't get the damn cell to turn off!!!

 

[STM tuned]

I tried to make a video and it turned out bad, then I went to make another one, and car would not start because the spark plugs were too wet, I put in my previous njks and it revs up to 5K rpm again, kinda wierd.

just by reading this, have you checked coil packs or transistor pack yet?

Seems that if your spark plugs got soaked you have plenty of fuel but are having issues with spark.

 

[klipschaudio]

Kenamond> If you are reffering to the after market boost gauge, I had the tee in place and line open because the previous owner removed the boost gauge and never to\old me, so it always had a leak, but I drove like that with no problem for 5K+ miles.

voodoo> I believe you have to drive the vehicle to throw a cel most of the time, the car is parked. You do throw an engine light real quick if you disconnect an important sensor though.

Gleason> Yes both are checked and good.

I'm gonna see if I can find an fpr real quick and see if thats the problem.

By the way, what a fair price for a fpr? I have a guy locally offering me 2g one for 40.

 

[kenamond]

Kenamond> If you are reffering to the after market boost gauge, I had the tee in place and line open because the previous owner removed the boost gauge and never to\old me, so it always had a leak, but I drove like that with no problem for 5K+ miles.

Have you tried capping the boost gauge nipple on the tee?

 

[klipschaudio]

I'm gonna take a shot in the dark.... I had an issue similar to this when I purchased a 95 e-prom for DSMlink to put in my 99' GSX. The car would accelerate fine at low to no boost, but at about 3-3.5k the car would break up and blow loads of smoke out of the exhaust. The culprit was a blown sensor ground, which in turn blew the MAF reset transistor. If you are getting readings, then the sensor ground is propably not blown, but I would check the MAF circuit, IDC's, and O2 readings when this happens. If the MAF (in Hz) signal turns into a jagged mess, your IDC's drop, and the 02 readings cut out, then look further into the ECU.

I would also double check the timing. Brad

Can you please explain where the transistor is? My brother said he though about it some more and it cant be a bad fpr, because at higher rpms the engine would run better, not worse because it would be able to burn all the excess fuel. I rang all the maf wires to the ecu today and they are all good. Is the transistor inside the maf??? I also took the maf apart, comb is good, smells kinda funny, like a burned chip, but not quite, kinda like a mix of burn rubber and chip. All the components on board are good though. If someone else knows where exactly that transistor is, let me know, I searched but can't seem to find anything, Thanks in advance!

 

[klipschaudio]

Yes I plugged the tee off for now, even though I installed a boost gauge since then, just to be sure it's not leaking there.

 

[klipschaudio]

Update: I rang my maf to ecu and it's all good. I found a person with a gsx locally and tested my MAF and ECU and they are both good! Tested the fuel system and it's good! I don't know what could be wrong, it's almost as if it's a mechanical problem but it isn't.

Interesting point, when I disconnect the actuator arm from the turbo the engine can rev to 6-7 thousand rpm no problem! So no boost, no knock? Why knock when boost? Why knock at all!? I am raising my previous amount to $30 for anybody who helps me solve this issue!

 

[kenamond]

I'm just going to rattle off a couple of observations. Maybe that'll give you new ideas.

Without boost, the mani never goes above vaccuum. Boost leaks won't affect air metering nearly as much. But that's not the problem, because it bogs before boost goes high enough to matter. But the FPR vaccuum signal will not matter much either with IM pressure near barometric.

If the WG is open, that means exhaust doesn't go through the turbine. Is the turbo siezed or perhaps the turbine volute is blocked? That would back up the entire motor, because the WG would be closed until you hit your target boost level...which you aren't hitting. But with the WG disconnected, it could go out the WG from the get-go.

I'm forgetting stuff about this thread. I don't remember discussion of knock. Have you tried removing the knock sensor from the block and wrapping it in a rag to see how the motor behaves? Something might be rattling around causing phantom knock.

I've never tried this, but have you tried taking a timing light and comparing what it says to what a logger says?

Can't think of anything else at the moment.

EDIT: I reread (well browsed) the rest of the thread and see no mention of knock, yet you mention that in your last post. Could you elaborate. Also, have you checked your CAS? Swap it into another post-96 turbo DSM and see if it works. Another thing you mentioned was that you swapped in new plugs and made 5k all of the sudden. Sounds like the plugs are fouling more and more. Anyway, if the CAS is bad, ignition timing gets screwed up, you run pig rich due to misfires, and might not even be able to idle. It's like 10 seconds to remove the sensor and pop it into another car...or vice versa. My CAS died, and I could wiggle the connector to make it work for another day or two, but when it first freaked out, it didn't throw a code. I'm not sure what criteria makes the car throw a code or not, but the sensor was obviously fuxed but no code for a day or more. It started working (I happened to wiggle the CAS wire), drove it home, no code. Your symptoms are different, but still kind of similar.

 

[dsmlifestyle]

Have you tested the TPS?

 

[klipschaudio]

I am assuming that it is knock because the engine studders down like that, the ecu senses knock due to it running rich and pulls timing so much causing it to studder down, but I could be wrong, I am not an expert.

My brother hypothesizes that it runs better with no boost because of a weak coil pack and a lacking spark under boost, either way I will most likely swap a working cas, coil and transistor pack and spark plug wires from the person that I tested the ecu on and see whats what.
---------------

Tps has nothing to do with engine condition other than idle as far as I know, I have tested it about 6mo before and it was good.

Thanks for the input everyone

 

[kenamond]

Any updates?

 

[klipschaudio]

Yes, I have not tested the cas yet, I took it off and it looks fine, but I didnt get enough time to check it. I did test the spark plugs. wires, coil and transistor pack on his car, everything checked out except for the spark plugs, the njk bpr7es or whatever the part number is, his car started sputtering at idle, but revs fine. I took his bosch platinum, the ones with 4 tipped ends, and put them into my car, my car could immediately rev more, to 5.5K+ rpm, but it would studder the same and the rpm would go down. I don't know, the only thing left is some kinda of short or something. By the way, are the tips on the injectors supposed to be blue or green stock? Mine are green. Thanks.

 

[klipschaudio]

Update: I have finally figured out the problem. Don't laugh, it was a blown off coupler. I am not sure how it managed to hold 20psi of boost leak pressure test 2 times, but I have gone out today to do a third check, it would not hold any pressure. I took off the bumper on the passenger side and discovered a coupler had slid off.

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Thanks to all that have taken time to reply and help, especially kenamond. Easy lesson learned a hard way for me.

 

[kenamond]

Glad you finally found it. So voodoogsx gets paid? Last sentence in his first post says to check for leaks in the intake system. But since he responded before you upped the offer, he should get the original offer.

 

[klipschaudio]

I sent him a pm, as soon as I get his PM he'll get $10

 

[klipschaudio]

I just checked my pm to make sure that the message was sent, but it says "Sent messages (0)" I sent it 2 more times, and it still says (0). Why is that?

 

[voodoogsx]

I just checked my pm to make sure that the message was sent, but it says "Sent messages (0)" I sent it 2 more times, and it still says (0). Why is that?

I got all 3!!!

Don't worry about the 10 bux, save it to get a lower IC pipe!!
RRE's Eclipse Intake and Exhaust Upgrades

 

[klipschaudio]

Ok as you wish, I will upgrade everything later on, now I just gotta run the car a bit and see that it actually works. BTW, I took it out for a spin and uphill at 10psi continues, another coupler blew off, I checked under the hood and everything seemed tight, I'm guessing its that one under the bumper again even though I tightened it with a ranch. Oh well, at least I know now. Thanks

 

[voodoogsx]

Ok as you wish, I will upgrade everything later on, now I just gotta run the car a bit and see that it actually works. BTW, I took it out for a spin and uphill at 10psi continues, another coupler blew off, I checked under the hood and everything seemed tight, I'm guessing its that one under the bumper again even though I tightened it with a ranch. Oh well, at least I know now. Thanks

I had that happen to me a couple times myself, scared the crap outa me the first time as I was flooring it. When I got that licp and couples I made sure they were good and tight. Haven't had an issue since.