Need help deciding what do with my transmission

[talontsiboy24]

Call Perfect Performance in Palatine on Rand Rd. They are familiar with dsm auto trannies. They did my 96gsx years back. They towed it from my house and i think it was $2200 for a race rebuild and good warranty. At the time, AMS recommended them for a good local rebuild. You could buy IPT's trans rebuild kit and have a reputable shop install it as well as fix whatever else is bad, too

did the race rebuild include a performance torque converter and shift kit?

 

[Bender]

Most shops would opt to go with a transgo shift kit, instead of the translab because it is a company they never heard of before, and transgo makes many domestic parts. A good shop with include the shift kit for free if you have them do the whole rebuild. That may have included a torque converter because many local shops will custom stall them for about $300 (atleast around here). OR for a bit more money they can send it out (usually precision in ohio, or a like company) and have it built a little more for around 700-800. I called precision and they said they don't work on the w4a33 transmissions anymore, but I was told by AAMCO that they could send it out to them.

 

[toofast82]

did the race rebuild include a performance torque converter and shift kit?

It came with a 12mt/12k warranty and they said it should take whatever i threw at it. The car was basically stock so i never really got to test it much. I no longer have the car. The converter was still pulling around the stock 3-3.2k rpms.
I've seen used jdm auto trannies on ebay for like $400-750w/transfercase as another option.
If you plan on driving your auto dsm hard. I highly suggest a switchable controller to go to 100%line pressure manual shifts.
Look into the Roadsurge shift box as well as making something similar on your own
RoadSurge.com
there are also threads on this site as well as vids
The roadsurge is very effective and has good reviews
This is what i did on my current car and spent about $20 on it. It worked great for me. The shifts are very fast and precise.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...iews/286205-diy-1g-clutchless-manual-mod.html
I also recommend a shift kit as well as upgraded end clutch
People have run 10s and 11s on stock trannies with these mods

 

[talontsiboy24]

It came with a 12mt/12k warranty and they said it should take whatever i threw at it. The car was basically stock so i never really got to test it much. I no longer have the car. The converter was still pulling around the stock 3-3.2k rpms.
I've seen used jdm auto trannies on ebay for like $400-750w/transfercase as another option.
If you plan on driving your auto dsm hard. I highly suggest a switchable controller to go to 100%line pressure manual shifts.
Look into the Roadsurge shift box as well as making something similar on your own
RoadSurge.com
there are also threads on this site as well as vids
The roadsurge is very effective and has good reviews
This is what i did on my current car and spent about $20 on it. It worked great for me. The shifts are very fast and precise.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...iews/286205-diy-1g-clutchless-manual-mod.html
I also recommend a shift kit as well as upgraded end clutch
People have run 10s and 11s on stock trannies with these mods

i have perfect performance rebuilding my trans now they should be done by tomorrow night they said. 1yr warranty. its a performance rebuild. im getting all new transmission electronics,transfer case and diff fluid replaced with synthetic,syn trans fluid and filter,they also sent out my precision industries torque coverter for a rebuilt. i have a black spring shift kit already in there. $2800 for everything

 

[Bender]

Good price considering you're sending out your torque converter. Are you sending it back out to precision? I know for 800 they will put a billet front piece on, as well as a stronger lock up.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Good price considering you're sending out your torque converter. Are you sending it back out to precision? I know for 800 they will put a billet front piece on, as well as a stronger lock up.

i called precision and sadly they discontinued that one 8 months ago for my car so they couldnt do anything for me so the shop sent it out to another place for $425. it sucks cause i bought this car modified and im fixing the previous owner is problems...

with the trans rebuild and other stuff i did to it i spent $4000 and i still need a afpr kit,wideband,tune,radiator flush,and new rims cause the stock ones are bent...but the car has moderate mods and they all work fine no boost leaks. no turbo shaft play. so im like fine ill fix whatever else to get this car str8...i paid only $4450 and the car is clean as hell! all the mods and tune was done at ams.

 

[Bender]

Well shit, the 420a's go for more than that where I live. You got a great price on the car and look at it this way, in the end it will cost the same as paying a normal price for the car, only a lot of things will be new

 

[talontsiboy24]

Well shit, the 420a's go for more than that where I live. You got a great price on the car and look at it this way, in the end it will cost the same as paying a normal price for the car, only a lot of things will be new

420a's???

 

[Bender]

The nonturbos.

 

[talontsiboy24]

The nonturbos.

oh sorry im new to the dsm world...yea i saw stock 97-99 gsx's for $5500 or more out here i bought mine with over $10k in mods n stuff and so far spent $4000 for a performance rebuilt trans and parts....it had 122k miles on the motor but still it runs real well.

 

[Bender]

Yea, car looks good. I was looking at your gallery pictures, and the one of your boost gauge, is that at full boost? If so, you could really wake the car up by getting in the turbos efficiency range. I run a similar turbo to yours, and I'm launching at 25, and then in 2nd gear having it go to 30. 18psi is good for a 16g, but these 50 trim really don't wake up until about 23-24 psi. I wouldn't recommend going that high without doing some about higher octane fuel or timing, but 20-21 psi is definitely doable on 94 octance pump gas. That will be 1.4 on your boost gauge.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Yea, car looks good. I was looking at your gallery pictures, and the one of your boost gauge, is that at full boost? If so, you could really wake the car up by getting in the turbos efficiency range. I run a similar turbo to yours, and I'm launching at 25, and then in 2nd gear having it go to 30. 18psi is good for a 16g, but these 50 trim really don't wake up until about 23-24 psi. I wouldn't recommend going that high without doing some about higher octane fuel or timing, but 20-21 psi is definitely doable on 94 octance pump gas. That will be 1.4 on your boost gauge.

its not considered a generation turbo...i have a forced performance green turbo in there and no thats not full boost...so u think that was to hi to run on 93 octane? im not gonna go to the highest till i get a afpr kit and wideband oh and a tune...

i noticed when im racing it on stock boost my boost will start goin a lil higher as i go faster like the highest it will go up to is 1.0 on the bar that is when im racing without the boost controller turned on....but when i turn my low settings on my boost controller it goes between 1.1-1.3....


do u know of a link u can send me how to read the bar gauge so i know how much boost im running?

 

[Bender]

The FP green is a bb 50 trim produced by forced performance. Likewise, the fp red is just a bb 60 trim. I've always had google do my boost calculations. Just type in "1.25 bar to psi" without quotes and it will do it for you. =) You should be fine for 1.4 bar on 93 octane, I have just always used sunoco 94, so I don't know first hand, but I do believe people are running 20 psi on it though.

 

[talontsiboy24]

The FP green is a bb 50 trim produced by forced performance. Likewise, the fp red is just a bb 60 trim. I've always had google do my boost calculations. Just type in "1.25 bar to psi" without quotes and it will do it for you. =) You should be fine for 1.4 bar on 93 octane, I have just always used sunoco 94, so I don't know first hand, but I do believe people are running 20 psi on it though.

thanks yea 18psi aint sht this car can handle it considering the mods....but i wont go higher till i get the afpr kit and wideband....cause last time it was tuned was about 3-4yrs ago...so once i get my car back and break in the trans im gonna get them 2 things installed and dyno it....

 

[Bender]

A cheap alternative to a wideband airfuel is the dynotune narrowband. DynoTune Product, 001-Round Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Gauges - DynoTune, Nitrous systems, Purge kits, Nitrous Bottle heaters and more! I would still recommend just a regular one that strobes though because thats good for just cruising around. I then tune for the dynotune one to be .925-.93 on regular fuel, or .96 on fuel with meth/water. I was able to go 12.56 on a 16g in my automatic with pump gas on this gauge and a maf translator.

 

[talontsiboy24]

A cheap alternative to a wideband airfuel is the dynotune narrowband. DynoTune Product, 001-Round Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Gauges - DynoTune, Nitrous systems, Purge kits, Nitrous Bottle heaters and more! I would still recommend just a regular one that strobes though because thats good for just cruising around. I then tune for the dynotune one to be .925-.93 on regular fuel, or .96 on fuel with meth/water. I was able to go 12.56 on a 16g in my automatic with pump gas on this gauge and a maf translator.

well im getting a Aeromotive "A1000" Complete Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit w/ Gauge and AEM Six-In-One Gauge-Type Wideband UEGO Controller....like they say its best to do it right the first time and i know these products are pretty much the best to use.

as for boosting i havent blew up the motor when running 18psi so thats good....so i know its tuned ok but i wont go any higher and mostly i smoke whatever next to me at stock boost ....do u know anything about apexi s-afc? my buddy told me i should put the low throttle percentage at 35%? but i didnt wanna mess with it till i got another real tune so its at 20% for the low and 70% for the hi...

 

[Bender]

Yea, I like doing things once also. It's just that I have an AEM wideband on my SS, and honestly I don't see the point of it. I can do everything on my narrowband as the wideband, and honestly I think its a little more accurate because I can see voltage out to the thousands place, instead of a rounded 2 digit number. The only way I'd put a wideband in my eclipse is if I needed one for a fuel management input, or I use anything other than gasoline as a fuel, and even then it would only be used for the lambda calculations.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Yea, I like doing things once also. It's just that I have an AEM wideband on my SS, and honestly I don't see the point of it. I can do everything on my narrowband as the wideband, and honestly I think its a little more accurate because I can see voltage out to the thousands place, instead of a rounded 2 digit number. The only way I'd put a wideband in my eclipse is if I needed one for a fuel management input, or I use anything other than gasoline as a fuel, and even then it would only be used for the lambda calculations.

so u think a wideband is pointless in my situation? what about afpr kit? they said if i had them 2 things id be able to tune the car much better and plus im running the walbro 255. i was reading that link to that gauge u sent me it sounds good actually and its kool that u can use it with the stock oxygen sensor. does it come with the wiring or just the gauge?

 

[Bender]

I'm not trying to lead you one way or the other, just I am doing fine without a wideband. I recommend a datalogger though. Here is a free one. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...alogger-dsms-post151833948.html#post151833948

As for afpr, I highly recommend one. Especially if you have a 255 pump, as it will over run your stock fpr. 190lph is the biggest you can go pump wise on a stock fpr.

 

[talontsiboy24]

I'm not trying to lead you one way or the other, just I am doing fine without a wideband. I recommend a datalogger though. Here is a free one. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...alogger-dsms-post151833948.html#post151833948

As for afpr, I highly recommend one. Especially if you have a 255 pump, as it will over run your stock fpr. 190lph is the biggest you can go pump wise on a stock fpr.

where can i buy a datalogger from and the cable for that software to work with my car?

 

[Bender]

Well that datalogger is free, and it's nice because it is not obd2 based. The problem with obd2 is you cant read knock, only timing, so you can only guess when there's knock when the timing gets pulled. Using the MUT system, (like MHIScan) you can read your knock counts. The cable I bought for it is like this one.. eBay Motors: USB Cable KKL 409.1 VW/AUDI OBD2 OBD OBDII VAG COM 409 (item 370188399754 end time May-15-09 12:06:24 PDT)

I havn't received it yet, so Idk for sure if it works properly.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Well that datalogger is free, and it's nice because it is not obd2 based. The problem with obd2 is you cant read knock, only timing, so you can only guess when there's knock when the timing gets pulled. Using the MUT system, (like MHIScan) you can read your knock counts. The cable I bought for it is like this one.. eBay Motors: USB Cable KKL 409.1 VW/AUDI OBD2 OBD OBDII VAG COM 409 (item 370188399754 end time May-15-09 12:06:24 PDT)

I havn't received it yet, so Idk for sure if it works properly.

yea but i need a palm pilot right so i can put that software onto it?

 

[Bender]

Nope, that software goes off a laptop. If you have a palm pilot though, you can look into pocketlogger. Problem with that though is it is obd2, so you wont be able to read knock counts.

 

[talontsiboy24]

i just had the automatic trans rebuilt...so far i put 80miles on the rebuilt trans and wondering how long will it take for it to break in? also can i go fast with the car or i gotta take it easy? is it ok for me to rev into the 3000-4000rpm range?

 

[Bender]

Generally the only drive train component I've ever broken in was the clutch. Automatic transmissions work by the fluid pushing a piston, and forcing your steels and papers together, which cause enough friction to grab. With that being said, I've never broken in an automatic transmission.

Only thing I advise is drive it for a little while, then check the fluid in NEUTRAL. And top off as necessary as the air that was in the torque converter, cooler, and oil passageways will have all been pumped out by now.