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Need help deciding what do with my transmission

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but after looking around on the internet I read that some people are taking it easy for the first 500 miles or so to allow the clutch packs time to seat, as well as the o rings.

Idk. Call the trans shop that did the work and get proper procedure (if any) as it may put your warranty at stake. And of course post it back here, ### it looks like all my transmissions have been broken in the motoman way. LOL.
 
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but after looking around on the internet I read that some people are taking it easy for the first 500 miles or so to allow the clutch packs time to seat, as well as the o rings.

Idk. Call the trans shop that did the work and get proper procedure (if any) as it may put your warranty at stake. And of course post it back here, ### it looks like all my transmissions have been broken in the motoman way. LOL.

im sayin taken it easy meaning like no high rpms? i only been goin in between 3-4k rpms its ###n hard not to go fast i mean i wanna hear my turbo spool LOL
 
I hear ya, LOL. The site that I pulled that info from said just regular driving. But I'm sure they meant mom and dad regular driving. Not young guy with a sports car regular driving... So I'd say driving like you would in front of a cop. Next time I talk to IPT, I'll ask, and see what they say.
 
I hear ya, LOL. The site that I pulled that info from said just regular driving. But I'm sure they meant mom and dad regular driving. Not young guy with a sports car regular driving... So I'd say driving like you would in front of a cop. Next time I talk to IPT, I'll ask, and see what they say.

i dont see why it would be bad to drive it where the rpms are in the 3s-4s....i mean its a automatic so im sure that break in has already been done with i already drove the car 100 miles....but alright let me know LOL

this what amsoil says: Generally, drive train components such as transmissions and differentials do not require break-in periods.

i dunno i didnt get a full rebuild only rebuilt the whole soft parts side,new front pump,new trans electronics like solenoids etc,new diff fluid royal purple,new transfer case fluid redline heavy shock proof,trans filter and syn trans fluid,cleaned valve bodies etc,and precision industries torque converter rebuilt thats about all that was done to my trans....
 
Well, I got my trans back from IPT, and asked them about break in. They said it doesn't need to be "broken in" but to drive the car for 200 miles under all conditions. Do city, highway, and some WOT pulls without beating on it.
 
Well, I got my trans back from IPT, and asked them about break in. They said it doesn't need to be "broken in" but to drive the car for 200 miles under all conditions. Do city, highway, and some WOT pulls without beating on it.

yea i drove it like 20 miles highway when i drove it back home from the shop and from then i been driving it in the city and highway and doin some fast pulls with it. the trans now has over 200miles so i been racing da biatch LOL
 
Yea, car looks good. I was looking at your gallery pictures, and the one of your boost gauge, is that at full boost? If so, you could really wake the car up by getting in the turbos efficiency range. I run a similar turbo to yours, and I'm launching at 25, and then in 2nd gear having it go to 30. 18psi is good for a 16g, but these 50 trim really don't wake up until about 23-24 psi. I wouldn't recommend going that high without doing some about higher octane fuel or timing, but 20-21 psi is definitely doable on 94 octance pump gas. That will be 1.4 on your boost gauge.

your def right about the wake up on the fp green cause i turned my hi settings on my boost controller and was like holy sht OMG...LOL...so on pump gas like 93 premium i can run up to 21psi with no issues you think?

whats pissin me off is i put new wires ngk me77 and plugs ngk bpr7es and i still got a check engine light for misfire :(....i dunno what it can be? and i keep getting a code also for fuel pressure solenoid malfunction so what does that mean?
 
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