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Need help deciding what do with my transmission

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talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
869
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
i need to know whats the cheapest route to go about this?

i have a 97 gsx automatic with 123k miles and i have a lil slippage,trans fluid is black,noise commin from torque converter,and my car is locking up on me at slow speeds it like locks up and goes locks up and goes so i def have problems but the locking up and noise begin when i drive the car for a longtime like when its really hot.....and if i drive it for about 1hr it gets real bad where my check engine light comes on and i scan for codes and get p1750....the transmission is new from the dealer about 4yrs old thats in the car now but i guess the previous owner beat on it :cry:

tranny mods:
PI - dragon torque converter 3500 stall
black spring shift kit
b&m tranny cooler
 
Probably just to have them rebuild it. Sounds like you at least have a broken diff. That code is a problem with a Solenoid Assy Malfunction.

Code No. P1750 Solenoid Assy Malfunction

Background
The transaxle control module monitors the torque converter clutch solenoid, shift control
solenoid and pressure control solenoid.
When some one of these solenoids has failed, the transaxle control module inputs these
failure signals to the engine control module.

Check Area, Judgement Criteria
Torque converter clutch solenoid, shift control solenoid or pressure control solenoid fail
signal is input to the engine control module from the transaxle control module.

Probable cause

Converter clutch solenoid failed.
Shift control solenoid failed.
Pressure control solenoid failed.
Engine control module failed.
 
Probably just to have them rebuild it. Sounds like you at least have a broken diff. That code is a problem with a Solenoid Assy Malfunction.

Code No. P1750 Solenoid Assy Malfunction

Background
The transaxle control module monitors the torque converter clutch solenoid, shift control
solenoid and pressure control solenoid.
When some one of these solenoids has failed, the transaxle control module inputs these
failure signals to the engine control module.

Check Area, Judgement Criteria
Torque converter clutch solenoid, shift control solenoid or pressure control solenoid fail
signal is input to the engine control module from the transaxle control module.

Probable cause

Converter clutch solenoid failed.
Shift control solenoid failed.
Pressure control solenoid failed.
Engine control module failed.
so u think i should have them drop it and tell me what parts im gonna need for $350 instead of buying a whole new trans? thing is what if i need alot of parts then with parts and labor its gonna probably cost me the same as buying a brand new one from ipt for about $3k...:hmm:
 
Thats what i would do. But i would some opinions from others too. im not too familiar with automatic trannys.
 
Be prepared for a big bill. My auto tranny replacement 12 years ago ran about $3500 from Mitsubishi fully installed.

ha i aint getting it done there they rape u on labor...i aint rich LOL....im buying a rebuild kit from ipt and having a shop here do it. they said $350 to take it out and open it up to tell me what parts i need to replace thats alot cheaper then putting a whole new one in there.
 
DON'T DO IT I just got ripped off by my local AAMCO!!! I payed them 399+tax to pull a transmission for my BMW and they screwed me on the warranty. If your having problem with it get the one from IPT. It will cost at least $2800 for AAMCO to rebuild it and put it back in.

EDIT: They also took a torch to my transmission case to get a bolt out that they striped the head off of!!!!!
 
DON'T DO IT I just got ripped off by my local AAMCO!!! I payed them 399+tax to pull a transmission for my BMW and they screwed me on the warranty. If your having problem with it get the one from IPT. It will cost at least $2800 for AAMCO to rebuild it and put it back in.

EDIT: They also took a torch to my transmission case to get a bolt out that they striped the head off of!!!!!

well how am i gonna know whats wrong with it without havin someone pulling it out and taking a look at it? i aint gonna buy a whole new transmission thats ###en $3000 and i def dotn have that kind of money :( ipt wants $2970+ im gonna need new trans fluid and pay someone to take the old one out and put the new one in so thats even more money this sucks!!!!
 
I have horror stories with AAMCO too. I just got my car back (barely). They also wanted 4400 to rebuild my transmission. Needless to say tomorrow R&L carrier is picking my transmission up to bring it to IPT.

Reading the posts it sounds like your line pressure solenoid is bad. A lot of times when that happens you burn out your frictions and steels. You want to do something about it quick ### the frictions have been known to float around after getting stripped off and getting caught in your planetary and stripping those gears! And those are about 500 to replace. Its not hard to put new solenoids or clutch packs in, especially in these chrysler transmissions. They are the transmissions that I used when I learned how to rebuild them. Get a master alto kit which is a little over 300 for the red eagles (their racing frictions). You may also opt to get the kolene steels, which grip a little better, but can glaze more easily. Then buy the solenoid kit from IPT. They just bolt in from the bottom after you take the pan off.
 
Reading the posts it sounds like your line pressure solenoid is bad. A lot of times when that happens you burn out your frictions and steels. You want to do something about it quick ### the frictions have been known to float around after getting stripped off and getting caught in your planetary and stripping those gears! And those are about 500 to replace. Its not hard to put new solenoids or clutch packs in, especially in these chrysler transmissions. They are the transmissions that I used when I learned how to rebuild them. Get a master alto kit which is a little over 300 for the red eagles (their racing frictions). You may also opt to get the kolene steels, which grip a little better, but can glaze more easily. Then buy the solenoid kit from IPT. They just bolt in from the bottom after you take the pan off.

I was thinkin im really sick of automatic and was gonna do a manual conversion what do u think? and what do i need? i was just gonna buy a whole new manual trans from ipt or shepardtrans and call it a day....but what parts do i need for it to work besides the manual trans? automatic to me sucks its just not fun!
 
Do a search on manual swap.

But you will need:

Trans
T-case
Rear diff
front cv axles
shifter
shifter linkage
clutch pedal
break pedal
fly wheel
clutch
clutch master cyl (wich you will need to drill holes in the fire wall for)
slave cyl
make a clutch line. and will have some wiring to deal with to get the check enigine light off and to start the car.
 
I would do the swap. But if you don't have mony for a new trans, how are you ever going to pull that off?
Trans shops are a very sore subject for me. (Never again) next rebuild I will do my self.
Best fix for the mony used. preferably out of a wreck low mile's
Best deal for the swap, same car. You can find one for a 3 maybe 4 hundred, and all you need is labor.
 
Call Perfect Performance in Palatine on Rand Rd. They are familiar with dsm auto trannies. They did my 96gsx years back. They towed it from my house and i think it was $2200 for a race rebuild and good warranty. At the time, AMS recommended them for a good local rebuild. You could buy IPT's trans rebuild kit and have a reputable shop install it as well as fix whatever else is bad, too
 
Call Perfect Performance in Palatine on Rand Rd. They are familiar with dsm auto trannies. They did my 96gsx years back. They towed it from my house and i think it was $2200 for a race rebuild and good warranty. At the time, AMS recommended them for a good local rebuild. You could buy IPT's trans rebuild kit and have a reputable shop install it as well as fix whatever else is bad, too

well yesterday i accidently dropped the trans fluid from the bolt instead of the oil yea stupid mistake but in the trans fluid i didnt find any shreddings or metal particles in it the only thing it was on the blackish side so i think what i need is new fluid....also noticed there was some bubbles in the fluid like on top?

but i dunno what the previous owner last used in there is it ok if he used synthetic and i drop the pan and add mitsubishi trans fluid back in?
 
You can use Mopar ATF-4 Fluid. You can find it at Walmart or your local dodge/chrysler dealer or Castrol ATF-4 or Valvoline ATF-4. Ive used all three of these on both of my auto's awd with no problems. Make sure you change the filter out and add 5 quarts of fluid when done then put the car in drive and reverse to let the fluid move around then putt it back in neutral and check the fluid level.
 
I have always used valvoline atf+4 full synthetic. Walmarts has it for about 6 bucks a quart.

is it ok to mix synthetic with non synthetic trans fluid? cause i dont know if the trans fluid in there now is synthetic...i was gonna go with BG Syncro Shift Syncroshift I heard its really good stuff?
 
well yesterday i accidently dropped the trans fluid from the bolt instead of the oil yea stupid mistake but in the trans fluid i didnt find any shreddings or metal particles in it the only thing it was on the blackish side so i think what i need is new fluid....also noticed there was some bubbles in the fluid like on top?

but i dunno what the previous owner last used in there is it ok if he used synthetic and i drop the pan and add mitsubishi trans fluid back in?

there are magnets in the trans pan which will catch anything major, so you'd have to drop the pan to see the real story. I always used the factory fluid or castrol makes one compatible with Diamond SP. If the fluid is that bad, i would do a complete flush
 
there are magnets in the trans pan which will catch anything major, so you'd have to drop the pan to see the real story. I always used the factory fluid or castrol makes one compatible with Diamond SP. If the fluid is that bad, i would do a complete flush

i called perfect performance today and they told me to bring the car for a free inspection and they will tell how much its gonna cost so thats good news...but bad news is there 50min away from me which will cause even more damage to my trans if i drive it that far....i mean when i drive the car for a longtime the car locks up on me when i go to slow down or just when the car is rolling in drive it will lock and go lock and go and theres rattling noise commin from my torque converter so if i drive it 50min im only gonna do more damage....or u think ill be ok?
 
I wouldn't risk it if I were you,you may end up causing more damage driving it that way wich will only drive up the cost of repair, have it towed on a flatbed,wich will cost a pretty penny but it shouldn't be to bad for 50 mls. Also it seems a stock rebuild will cost just as much as a performance rebuild so it only makes sense to have it built tough. The only other cheaper alternative I can think of is to buy a used/working one from a reputable shop.
 
I don't have experience with the syncroshift, but it is ok to mix synthetic with non-synthetic transmission fluids and motor oils.
 
Do a search on manual swap.

But you will need:

Trans
T-case
Rear diff
front cv axles
shifter
shifter linkage
clutch pedal
break pedal
fly wheel
clutch
clutch master cyl (wich you will need to drill holes in the fire wall for)
slave cyl
make a clutch line. and will have some wiring to deal with to get the check enigine light off and to start the car.

ecu (i believe pin 99 or 101 is different, that is why AEM EMS isnt a direct bolt in for automatics)

you will also need the wiring harness from a M/T.

This is real expensive in the long run, because even after you do the swap, you will need a built manual transmission, which costs the same as a built automatic. If you would like the "shifting feel" then get the automatic trans manual shifter for the automatic transmission from Foreign Muscle. Foreign Muscle It is 3rd from the bottom on their products page.
 
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