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Need Help... Car not starting... not doing ANYTHING...

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SlowButSpeeding

Probationary Member
15
0
Apr 29, 2004
Atlanta, Georgia
Ok… here’s the problem. I’ve been doing some body repairs to my car… and I had the hood off. While I was at work, a rain storm came from nowhere. Anyways, I let everything dry out the best I could and started the car. Everything was working fine, so I let her run for a little bit. I went into the house and came back out about 5 minutes later, and the car had stopped. I went inside, and the radio was off, the headlights wouldn’t work anymore, but there were still interior lights, and it was beeping because the door was open. I went to restart the car and when I turned the key, nothing happened. No click noise, I can’t here the starter. I mean dead silence. Doe anyone know what could have happened? I would greatly appreciate your guy’s help.

Thanks,
Drew
 
just posted this on another thread about diagnosing a no start

Car Won’t Start

The purpose of this editorial is to aid in the diagnosis of a car that will not start. The focus of this particular page will be to the 4G63 turbo powered DSM cars, but the basics will also apply to most any make or model with a few variances.

Any internal combustion engine needs three things to operate: air, fuel, and ignition. We will assume that air is not a cause for this discussion, and leave focus to the latter two.

Getting started

First, you’ll need to gather a few tools. A thin shank flatblade screwdriver, a test light, multimeter, 19mm socket, 10mm socket, and a Phillips screwdriver.

Make sure the car has adequate voltage in the battery, one can make a general assumption based on headlight output. If you’re not certain, check it with a voltmeter.

Ignition system

Personally, I begin with the ignition system. The quickest way to check for spark is to pull out a plug wire, and carefully insert a screwdriver into the wire. Make sure that it has good contact with the conductor. Next, hold the metal shank of the screwdriver near a good ground on the vehicle; do NOT use the battery for this ground (battery explosion can result). Have someone else spin the motor over, while you watch for a spark from the screwdriver.

If spark is present, chances are the ignition system is not the culprit. Move on to the fuel system to narrow down your search. However, if no spark is present, do not necessarily assume that the fuel system is functioning properly. The next step should be to check for fuel delivery.

Fuel system

Make certain that there is gas in the tank! Begin by checking for fuel pump operation. The quickest and most accurate way is to check the fuel pressure. If you don’t have one, for shame! Now is a good time to spend the $35 on one. Alternatively, you can stick your ear by the gas tank or filler door and listen while an assistant turns the key on (alternatively, you can "hot-wire" the fuel pump via the pump test connector located under the hood). Listen for the fuel pump whirring noise, and since you don’t have a pressure gauge, assume that fuel is getting to the filter.

If at this point, you have determined that neither spark nor fuel is present, remove and inspect the ECU. Chances are that it is the culprit, especially if you can smell a distinct odor of bad seafood!

Further Diagnosis

If you have either no spark or no fuel, begin the process of eliminations.

Check ALL fuses and relays. Use a known good relay(s) where possible.

Are the fuel injectors firing? A noid light is a handy item to own, plug it in the injector harness and it’ll flash each time a voltage is sent to that injector.

Is the fuel filter plugged? If you can’t recall when it was changed last, go ahead and buy a replacement after all, it’s a good idea to do it now anyhow?

Do any of coils put out spark? Check each plug wire with the screwdriver trick.

Are the coil packs receiving voltage? Check with a test light while an assistant cranks the car.

Are the battery terminals clean and tight?

Check for obvious physical damage to the crank and/or cam sensor(s). Distributor where applicable (note: the 4g63 does not have a distributor).

Valve timing incorrect. A worn belt may have jumped a few teeth and is preventing the motor from cranking (4g63 owners beware, this may also mean serious internal motor damage!)
 
you may have popped a relay with starting while they may have been wet.

Go through, and check them out one by one. If you see carbon on anything, that is your culprit.

If I remember correctly the taillight relay is a big controller of triggering things to come on.

Also what is your batteries voltage at?
By letting standing water on it, you allowed a conductor to make a path between the terminals. Rain water will conduct electricity, pure water will not. So you could have drained your battery inadvertantly.
 
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