Need help bleeding clutch

[LTUDSM]

recently i upgraded my clutch system. Wole the parts are new:

ACT 2600 pp
ACT 6 puck disk
oem tb
fork
pivot ball
slave/master cylinders
SS line from master to slave cyl
i tried every possible way to bleed the clutch,and i still can't get the air out of the system. There is some ways i bled my clutch

did a gravity bleeding,then pumped the pedal and released bleeder valve. (did it round 35-40 mins)
Then tried by pressing the slave cyl rod, and cranking the bleeder valve. (helped a bit,but still i got really soft pedal.

I Heard,that if you replacing the master clutch cyl, bench bleeding helps alot. The thing is,that i got no clue of how to do it. If anyone could explain me,would be really great........ Thanks fellas...

 

[LTUDSM]

Yeah, here is the vid explaning how... Jack form Jacktransmission has a vid on it.

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

i was asking about bench bleeding,not about adjusting the master cyl rod..... its two different things...

 

[LiquidX]

Look into getting speed bleeders.

 

[LTUDSM]

Look into getting speed bleeders.

but you think it will help me to suck air out of the master cyl? because i just replaced it to a new one...

 

[EagleTSIawd]

It helps a lot if you can get someone to help you. Just to clarify how to bleed the clutch:

•Stick a clear hose on the nipple of the slave
•dip the hose in a bottle with some brake fluid (so it won't suck air as you bleed it)
•loosen the nipple and have some one press the clutch
•close nip
•have the other person release the clutch pedal
•repeat process

First time I tried it, it took me for ever because I wasn't opening the nipple enough and I would sometimes let the refill bottle go empty, it's also important to maintain the clear tube submerged in brake fluid.

 

[DSMReviver]

i was asking about bench bleeding,not about adjusting the master cyl rod..... its two different things...

Oh shit, i didnt even read what you got posted my bad. got it removed

 

[LiquidX]

If there is air in your cylinder then you didnt need properly. The speed bleeder is a one man bleed job.

Unscrew old nipple, but speed bleeder nipple in, loosed a quarter turn and pumP the pedal. Keep an eye on fluid level. When all bubbles are out tighten the bleede valve.

 

[snowborder714]

I'm trying to remember how I got mine bled after installing the new master, as I remember I had trouble. I think I just cracked the bleeder, put the pedal down, and let it sit for a little while (couple hours). But I'm not positive.

I'd also vote for SpeedBleeders. I have them in my brake calipers and slave cylinder and it makes bleeding very, very easy. Each one has a built in check valve so when you'd normally close the bleeder valve, the check valve closes.

 

[LTUDSM]

Brian, do you know where i could get the SpeedBleeders from??

 

[snowborder714]

I ordered mine directly from the company.
Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

 

[LTUDSM]

well today i was fu**in around with the bleeding the clutch. I found the way of how to benchbleed the master cyl. Did that,then attached the vac pump on a slave cyl bleeder,and sucket the whole bottle (big one) through the hydrological system. The used the "push slave cyl rod" method.Nothing worked out.. Where is my problem???????........ Sometimes DSM'S just pisses me off so bad....

 

[LiquidX]

I don't know why you are having some much trouble. When I needed the new master cylinder I installed that, a new slave, put in a spelled bleeder, along with a new SS line. Poured fluid in resivoire and started pumping. Didn't have any troubles at all.

First time I've heard of this "bench bleeding" too.

 

[crash89]

Ive never had any troubles either. Ive never had to do a whole system, but I have had my whole resevior been bone dry. I just filled it up and pumped untill there was no bubbles then used the 2 man bleed method. I dont use any fluid in the bottle either. I just:

Have a buddy press clutch down
(with a hose from the nipple into a bottle) open bleed valve
Close bleed valve
Lift clutch
Repeat.
(dont forget to refill the resevior)

 

[LTUDSM]

is it ok to have an air bubble in the master cyl fluid tank? here is a pic to be more specific

 

[LiquidX]

The only air in your system if any should be at the top of the reservoir next to the cap.

 

[LTUDSM]

ok i got the air bubbles out of my master cyl.But i came up with another strange thing. if i adjust the rod to avoid blocking of my bleeder valve, my pedal sticks on the floor. so, at this point, i've got it blocked off. but my pedal is really stiff like it should be,and now i can shift to any gear. But when i turn the maser cyl rod back to the point where i can push the fork,the pedal feels mushy again,and can't shift into any gears. Why its happening like that????WTFWTF

 

[ChillinGST]

Bench bleeding is only needed when replacing the master cylinder. Basically, you use a short line out of the master and bend is so it dumps back into the master cylinders reservoir. Once all the air is out, hook up the regular line and bleed entire system as normal.

 

[LTUDSM]

its smething wrong i think, it can't be a bleeding issue. Because i bleed the clutch xxxx times,used three big bottles of brake fluid,and nothing changed......

 

[LTUDSM]

Ok i too off the tranny again,to see if i didn't missed anything during installation. First thing i realized,that my pressure plate fingers were totally flat (pressure plate was tightened up to 16 lbs of torque). The other thing that i saw,was my new clutch disk was barely touching the flywheel. I saw,that on a very top of the disk where i think line,so i guess this was the place where it was touching the flywheel. I bought a used flywheel a year ago,never had it stepped,never inspected it. So today i went to Extreme and exchanged the pressure plate and bought an ACT street light flywheel..... hope it will solve my problem. I post the results after ill be done ..... Hope The flywheel was my mushy pedal and engagement problem....

 

[ReYnd]

Can't comment on whether or not that will solve your problem, but it certainly wouldn't hurt, from the sound of it!

When you've got everything back together, try bleeding the slave again. The proper technique (from what I've gathered, and what's worked for me) is to have someone hold the pedal down, start pushing on the slave rod, crack the bleeder, and as they let off the pedal, push the rod in as far as you can before closing the bleeder again. Took me about six "squirts" for me to stop seeing bubbles.

 

[habitatguy187]

I spent countless hours trying to bleed my old clutch system. Ended up getting it to work but it never worked correctly.

I had bought new oem everything clutch-hydraulic-wise. Bought a speed bleeder too, bench bled the master, bled at the slave, tried everything.

I ended up parting the car out eventually but I think that if I would've replaced my flywheel I would've been ok. One thing I can say for sure is that I'm a master at bleeding and adjusting the hydraulic system in dsms . Good luck man.

 

[LTUDSM]

The problem is Solved i changed the flywheel and now the pressure of the pedal is really stiff,the clutch engages perfect and the gears shifts awesome. Thanks fellas for any replys ........

 

[Strm Trpr]

After you bench bleed your MC, do this.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...how-properly-bleed-your-hydraulic-clutch.html

All you need to do is make a tube that screws into the MC body where the stock line attaches to the MC.
Then with the MC Reservoir in place, you loop the line up and over so that fluid will return into the reservoir.
Next, fill the reservoir with fluid then get in the driver's seat and pump the clutch pedal slowly and deeply by hand.
This action will recycle fluid in the MC and pump out all air, guaranteed.

When I replaced my clutch line from MC to SC with a braided stainless steel line, it was a piece of cake to bench bleed the MC.
Just threaded in the braided line, had a friend hold the other end of the braided line to shoot fluid back into the reservoir and whalla.