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Bleeding clutch....HELP

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kgtalon95

15+ Year Contributor
236
4
Jun 4, 2003
bothell, Washington
I'm about fed up with this. Will someone please give me a detailed explanation on how to bleed the damn clutch??? I've been trying for like 2 hours and can't get it to make any pedal pressure.

Also, what kind of wrench did you use to crack the bleeder? I think my main problem is not having the right tools.

Slave is new, and i'm no noobie......i'm just missing something very obvious. And if you post the vfaq link i might just light you on fire..........because i've had it open for 5 hours now. I've bled it before, but i forgot how too and i'm about to go light the car and fire and claim the money for it :rocks:
 
The bleeder should be a 10mm shoulder. Get you a length of rubber hose, get a small jar and put brake fluid in it. Put one end of the hose on your bleed nipple. Put the other in the jar of fluid. (This is so you don't suck air back into the system when your bleed/pedal timing will invaribly get off sync) Now, once your car is raised and on JACKSTANDS, find a friend who understands what you are telling him and is willing to follow instructions to the letter. Very important that they pay attention. With the reservoir full, open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Tell him to push the pedal to the floor. Have him tell you when it's on the floor. When he does, close the bleeder, and have him raise the pedal. Repeat this several times and make absolutely sure you don't run the master cylinder out of fluid during the process.

This has worked for me for years.

Good Luck
 
one thing i have found out about the clutch is not to open the screw more than about a 1/4 turn or it starts to leak around the threads. the brakes seem to tolerate opening more. and then again, the best inexpensive thing for bleeding brakes/clutch is a set of speed bleeders and do away with that friend/wife that always seems to get it wrong on the last stroke. the clutch is not listed, but if you call them they will get the right one for you. of course this is for future reference and does you no good today. i have used them for years with no problems.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

jim
 
Also bench bleed the master cylinder first. Go to a store and find a short piece of brake line that will bolt into the master cylinder output. Bend the line so that the output points back in the reservoir just below the fluid level. Pump the master until there are no more air bubbles comming out of the line. This can be done on the bench with master in a vice, hence the name, or it can be done in the car. Then connect your clutch line and bleed as described above.

You could also get a power bleeder. Some come with a self contained pressure pump and a large fresh fluid reservoir and bleed the line by pushing the fluid through the master cylinder toward the slave/caliper. The advantage is that the possibility of running out of fluid in the master cylinder is very low. Other types use shop air to create low pressure and suck the fluid through the bleeder. Disadvantage is that they could suck the master cylinder reservoir dry very quickly.

Good luck.
 
Got it bled. Feels like a whole new car!! My act 2600 doesn't engage as low to the floor and I can get into gears now. My syncros are trashed from a improperly installed short shifter but man what difference!!!!!

I had it vaccum bled after I bleed it, highly recommend :thumb:


Oh, and i'm going to tell why it wasn't working...........VERY embarrasing. I was filling the brake resevior, not the master :rolleyes: It was late, dark and cold. Wow :p
 
Why doesn't anyone use a check valve? I bled my clutch this morning. When my assistant mechanic (wife) didn't come immediately when I called her for pedal pushing duty, I stuck a cheap plastic check valve that I had laying around in the bleed tube. I cracked the bleeder valve and pumped the pedal about 50 times until the fluid exiting the valve had no trace of bubbles (filling the reservoir every few strokes of course). This takes away the need for precision timed pedal pushing-pulling / valve opening-closing. You don't even need to pre-fill the catch bottle. You can start with it empty and not waste the fluid.
 
kgtalon95 said:
Got it bled. Feels like a whole new car!! My act 2600 doesn't engage as low to the floor and I can get into gears now. My syncros are trashed from a improperly installed short shifter but man what difference!!!!!

I had it vaccum bled after I bleed it, highly recommend :thumb:


Oh, and i'm going to tell why it wasn't working...........VERY embarrasing. I was filling the brake resevior, not the master :rolleyes: It was late, dark and cold. Wow :p
KYLE OMG!!!!!!!!!!! I could not understand why you were having such an issue bleeding your clutch WTF I see now :tease:
Bryan
 
I know I know :p Thats the big sign that its time to get out of the dsm's for awhile.

I'll be back when I get my evo Bryan :thumb:
 
Old Mitsu Tech said:
The bleeder should be a 10mm shoulder. Get you a length of rubber hose, get a small jar and put brake fluid in it. Put one end of the hose on your bleed nipple. Put the other in the jar of fluid. (This is so you don't suck air back into the system when your bleed/pedal timing will invaribly get off sync) Now, once your car is raised and on JACKSTANDS, find a friend who understands what you are telling him and is willing to follow instructions to the letter. Very important that they pay attention. With the reservoir full, open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Tell him to push the pedal to the floor. Have him tell you when it's on the floor. When he does, close the bleeder, and have him raise the pedal. Repeat this several times and make absolutely sure you don't run the master cylinder out of fluid during the process.

This has worked for me for years.

Good Luck


Using this method you don't need two people. You can pump away. Just be sure to fill the reservior.
 
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