Need help asap

[Simonsaysr1]

So about a month ago I bought a 2g gst and it was stiff to get into gear but it shifted alright. About a week ago first and reverse started to grind. Followed by it not engaging in any gear. I pulled the transmission (even though it had 90k on it) and changed the release bearing. . It didnt fix it and if you try to start the car it tries to move when in gear. The clutch has less than 3k miles and its a 6 puck performance clutch. So I changed the dirty slave cylinder still no go. So I changed the master cylinder. Bleed a whole bottle of clutch fluid worth of bleeding (20 times or more) and still grinds and wont even attempt to go into second or any other gear . I have new fluid replaced everywhere in the cylinders and trans oil and car oil . The fork moves on the slave cylinder fine. No loss of fluid either the resevoir level does not change until you bleed it. I have had the clutch adjustment just set about everywhere ,still grinds .moved the clutch sensor switch on the farthest amount of clutch pedal play and nothing. I dont see it being syncros because this problem started in first and ended up not going into anything. like I said new cylinders . Bleed like crazy. Adjusted the clutch pedal screws. Backed the clutch sensors all the way out. Newr transmission (same one before problem arrived)Any ideas thoughts or words of knowledge to help me out?

 

[tmoney20g]

that's called clutch drag. you may need to pull the trans again and shim the pivot ball with a washer or two.

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros

 

[Simonsaysr1]

The fork is halfway in the window if not closer to the motor

 

[twicks69]

How much range is the slave cylinder rod / clutch fork moving when you depress the clutch pedal? If you hold the clutch pedal down, does the slave draw back in instead of holding? It is clutch drag; it is either going to be an adjustment issue, a hydraulic issue, or a clearance issue between the clutch disk and the pressure plate/flywheel. What is the flywheel step height measured across the friction plane? The step height should be 0.608"-0.612" for most clutches. Some of the aftermarket clutches (i.e. Ebay clutches) I have seen require a shim under the pivot ball to get full disengagement.

What specific clutch and flywheel are you using?

 

[Simonsaysr1]

It holds pressure fine and id say it extends about .5 Or .6" when the clutch is to the floor. I didn't mess with the flywheel or clutch because the owner before me said when he rebuilt the motor he went 7bolt and mounted a 90k trans with a new performance 6 puck clutch from O'Reilly as well as bell housing parts (tob. Fork ball clip) I replaced the tob . Also I rarely take off over 3k rpm. Ive launched it maybe twice. I did noticed a nice sized hole in my bell housing ny the starter from some metal disk laying in the bottom of the bell housing

 

[93AWDDSM]

I think you're going to have to pull the tranny and clutch/flywheel to make sure everything is in spec.

Even though the previous owner "put that stuff in" who's saying he checked the flywheel step height? I had a 93 7 bolt, hated going into gear and blah, once I had resurfaced the flywheel and got a stock clutch plate it shifted amazing. Was able to get up to 7k no drag.

 

[Dsmkauai]

I had to use a 2g master cylinder rod (inside at peddle) to get the proper adjustment with my southbend setup. The stock rod was maxed and still wouldn't give me what I needed. Once I swapped and adjusted my drag was completly gone and everything shifted perfect.

 

[Simonsaysr1]

I think you're going to have to pull the tranny and clutch/flywheel to make sure everything is in spec.

Even though the previous owner "put that stuff in" who's saying he checked the flywheel step height? I had a 93 7 bolt, hated going into gear and blah, once I had resurfaced the flywheel and got a stock clutch plate it shifted amazing. Was able to get up to 7k no drag.

I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull it back off but oh well I assume I can find a tutorial on finding and adjustment of the step height somewhere up here?

 

[Simonsaysr1]

I had to use a 2g master cylinder rod (inside at peddle) to get the proper adjustment with my southbend setup. The stock rod was maxed and still wouldn't give me what I needed. Once I swapped and adjusted my drag was completly gone and everything shifted perfect.

Thats what I have in there now is a 2g master and slave. I have had it adjusted to where the pedal wouldnt even get close to the floor and adjusted it all over just to rule the master and slave cylinders out. Of the problem

 

[Dsmkauai]

Follow the jacks trans vid on how to adjust properly, can't go wrong that way. Your using the 2g rod too? How are your shift cables and end bushings, what about your shifter base? Does your shifter have a lot of play?

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[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Just thought i'd throw this out there:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/shifter.htm

 

[Simonsaysr1]

Also I watched jacks transmission video about adjustment and I can't seem to get any free play. Even with the adjusting nut all the way back

 

[Simonsaysr1]

And it threaded all the way in

 

[Stephen227]

Man this is sounding like a bad pressure plate.