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nazthug

15+ Year Contributor
478
8
Dec 24, 2003
livermore, California
Well, i think im at the point where i need cams to get more airflow, not just boost


I just got back from the dyno, 344whp on 23-24psi on my little t3/04b vtrim(damn i wish i got the H3 trim) for that extra flow, oh well

That was with my JR fmic, 750s, dsmlink, 1g tb, evo3 manifold, o2, 3" turboback, pump, 3" intake, meth/water injection, etc....

This was on mostly pump with 2 gallons of 110. I was flowing about 38lb of air and it just wont go any higher.

I was looking at the comp cams simply because of the price and hearing that they are drop ins and as long as installed correctly, donnt really need cam gears.

I was going to do cams within the next month along with head studs. I am in california and I need to keep it mellow, so I am looking at the 100's. I dont want a huge lope and i would like to at least try to pass smog when it comes time for it(stock exhaust, injectors, etc)

I was also looking at fp1s, but they are almost identical and I can get comps for like $450.

Any opinions or advice? I am hoping to make at least 25-30whp with that kind of boost on these cams and am hoping for more topend.

Thanks
 
Sounds like you have it pretty well figured out to be honest. The 101100 will do you just fine and you should see and good gain with them. Chances are you will not pass smog with any cams but if your going to do it the 100's give you the best shot. Either way it's pretty easy to change the cams just before you go. If you suspend the belt and clip the cams gears and belt together so your not doing a timing belt job at the same time you can slip the cams out without removing the belt and not haveing to do anything but a few bolts on the caps, thats it. Then changing you cams is a 30-45 min affair.
 
do i even have to take the tension off the belt? Or should i just clip it to the gears and pull the cam out....wont the belt move around and stuf? Do i need to have the engine in any TDC position? I cant wait to get some cams in this thing, i want to push 45lb
 
I see around 46-48lb on my FP Green with FP2's, and a 1g head. Before the cams and some additional tuning I saw only 40lb/min, cams will definately help you out. 38lb/min seems awful for that kind of boost, what elevation are you at? You'll definately feel quite a large change in power from cams. Dont be hesitant to step up to the FP2's. My car idles so perfectly people dont notice that I even have cams, Ive had people ask me if I'd ever think about getting them as they stand next to my car idling :). 16-18inHG at idle.

As far as swapping the cams, I just went ahead and redid the whole timing belt assembly. Call me paranoid, but I just started doing it the prostreet way, and halfway through it I said screw it and just redid it all just to be on the safe side. If you know what you're doing timing belts arent too bad to redo, and I have a full shop with lighting and a full array of tools so I figured in my case it just was the best/safest way.
 
i posted my gains with the comp cams 100's a while back but i will again do it.

Before cams pump gas:
289awhp (20psi)

After the 100's pump gas:
303awhp (20-21psi)

Before cams race gas:
302.6awhp (25psi)

After the 100's race gas:
338awhp (25psi)


All that was changed between the dyos were the comp cams installed straight up no cam gears. YOu can see the gain i had with them, so im sure they will help you. This is on a stock 2g head/intake manifold as well.

Car idles very nice, once in a while you can tell there are cams in there. Low end is lost a bit but with a small turbo like mine what do i care. Its not enough to really matter anyway.

Oh this was done on my small 16g.

Id say comp cams, i like them and have no complaints at all.
 
sweet, i'll be ordering comp 100's next week

whats the actual difference between the comp 100s and the fp1s??

I can get comps for $400 shipped!!!!!!!! Thats cheap
 
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