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need advice, slave cylinder related

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that inner ring actually makes contact with the clutch disk and not the pressure plate. I'm gonna look into the flywheel, maybe it was machined wrong because my friend pointed out that the clutch was sitting too far outward, causing the tob to scrape on it. flywheel step is supposed to be about .610" right?

oh yea, and for the 2nd time my fluid has been extremely metallic. I pulled the rear cover on the transmission and found a couple steel pieces floating around. looks like I'll be looking for another transmission.
 
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Yep, it's 0.610 on the step height. The clutch disc shouldn't be sitting too far out unless it's just a manufacturing defect of some sort or they just dunno how to build a clutch for our cars.

2nd thing is, have you ever taken apart one of these transmissions? It's not all that bad. Mainly some basic hand tools. I mean hell, if ya plan to look for another tranny anyway, you have nothing to lose as far as tearing it apart. Might just find something simple and cheap in there to have to replace. I broke a shift rail once and I think I paid like $30 something for the part and changed it myself. If someone else had done it for me, they would've charged me $$$$$!!!!! If you do decide to take it apart, line everything up on the ground so you know the order that everything's suppose to go in. And if ya don't know how to do something, just post a pic so we can see what you're having trouble with.

Also, what kind of gear oil were you using?

P.S. Hoping mine will be up and running in the morning.
 
Yep, it's 0.610 on the step height.

It's been a long time since I've had to put a clutch in (over 60K on a 2600) so I don't recall the exact #'s, so just questioning in general: The .610 is for a OEM clutch? For instance, the ACT called for a specific number different than an OEM setup. The .610 isn't for ACT is it? (that # sounds familiar)

May need to google here...
 
the throw out bearing I put in came with the clutch.

OEM or aftermarket with the RAM clutch?

The aftermarket unit with the steel (inner diameter) sleeve are prone to seize and fail on the quill. (aluminum sleeve protruding from the trans around the input shaft) The OEM unit is partially plastic and has better wear properties.
 
thanks for the link, I think I've read that one before.
the throw out bearing had a steel inner ring, but I don't think the throw out bearing is at fault here. it may have been the reason my clutch wasn't releasing, but it was designed to work with that clutch.
I still think the flywheel is the real problem. when I got the flywheel machined I had my dad drop it off and I picked it up when the guy wasn't there. I was told this guy was pretty good, but he apparently didn't have the right step depth. I'm going to take the flywheel back and have him measure it and get it fixed. if I don't think he can do it right I'll just go somewhere else.

v8sareslow-I want to tear it apart, but a rebuild seems out of the question. I broke expensive stuff and a rebuild kit cost A LOT. unless you know one for less than 500ish?
The gear oil I was using was pretty heavy, like 80-90 or something around there.
can't wait to hear how yours goes.
 
Rebuild kit for what, the tranny? You can buy individual pieces for your transmission and replace only the parts that are needed. However, if the whole inside of your transmission is trashed, you're still needing another transmission anyway. And if you were probably running the wrong weight oil in the tranny. These transmissions don't like a lot of the oils that are out there.

Recommended Transmission Oils- Team Rip Engineering

Here's what I buy for mine...
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Redline Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid : MT-90

And another link that may help ya out since you're concerned about the tob and the flywheel...
TRE TECH TIPS

Good luck with everything.
 
Rebuild kit for what, the tranny? You can buy individual pieces for your transmission and replace only the parts that are needed. However, if the whole inside of your transmission is trashed, you're still needing another transmission anyway. And if you were probably running the wrong weight oil in the tranny. These transmissions don't like a lot of the oils that are out there.

Recommended Transmission Oils- Team Rip Engineering

Here's what I buy for mine...
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Redline Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid : MT-90

And another link that may help ya out since you're concerned about the tob and the flywheel...
TRE TECH TIPS

Good luck with everything.
the oil I was running was probably a little heavy, but 3 miles isn't going to be a huge difference. I'll look at what I had and tell ya what it was.
I'm going to borrow some money from my parents and get a stage 1.5 transmission from TRE. It's the quickest way and my mom and dad want this thing out of the shed.
I didn't mention it but I got a new pivot ball and shift fork before the clutch install and I was told not to shim a new pivot ball.

UPDATE: got the flywheel machined, guy said it was the correct depth and I had him measure the finished product right in front of me. step hight read .613" everywhere. I'm now confident that the flywheel is the correct hight, so I bolt the clutch on and it looks exactly like it did before. there's no way I can put this thing together without having the same problem. so what's next to look at? pressure plate?
not the pressure plate. I remembered I still had my old clutch and pressure plate, so I got to work swapping pp and disk combos. I think the real problem is the clutch disk, it's too thick compared to my other disk and doesn't have the proper clearance to fully disengage. no wonder it was hitting on the throw out bearing. nice job RAM. could I use a 4 puck unsprung clutch with the stock replacement pressure plate? I don't see why not, but just making sure I'm not forgetting anything.
 
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Think you can use the 4 puck with just about any pp out there really. Mine's still driving great. Just remember to use an oem tob. They're not expensive at all.
 
What's breaking? If they're going bad pretty often, you're either getting a REALLY cheap part, or something else is wrong that's causing it. Hell, I get a cheap rebuild kit for like $10-15 bucks and call it good. Drive forever!!!
 
well, I've got some more news on my transmission issues. I got a new ACT clutch kit, it has the original style TOB. I got an unsprung disk, but it's not a puck style, and uses a heavy duty pressure plate.
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Shift Rite, called me and said that the syncros looked ok, but I had a broken 1-2 shift fork. That makes a lot of sense, because my other gears worked fine. They'll put in an upgraded one if I can find one, so does anybody know where I can find an upgraded 1-2 shift fork? TRE has a stock one, but you know, fix it once, fix it right.
 
We are on the same boat. Just ordered tob and clip from STM. Waiting to order an act from them also. Hope you get it fix so you can hope I get mines fix. KARMA!
 
I had a similar problem on my work van a few weeks ago. The metal shavings that is in your transmission fluid (which I had in mine) turned out to be a faulty screen in the back of the transmission. Replaced the screen and new fluid and solved that problem. I have a problem with my 95 n/t right now with the slave cylinder, but it just doesn't fit into the fork and bolt. I am interested to know how everything turns out, and props on the 2 hour removal, I hope it goes smooth like that for me the 3rd time LOL.
 
I did end up getting the transmission and clutch put in sometime in February. when i put the new slave cylinder on I bled the hell out of it. once everything was installed and adjusted the car shifts and takes off really nicely now. but now it seems I've got water in my oil :(. i'm just so sick of this car i want it out of my life so i've been trying to sell it for about a month now, but I haven't had any luck. i was thinking for 800 it would go pretty quick, seeing that i spent that on the rebuilt trans.
 
If my wife wouldn't kill me and if my garage were 8' wider, $800 for a 1g AWD would be very tempting...

Maybe you're over the hump once you fix whatever's wrong with the motor and you'll have no more problems....or not.
 
That idea did cross my mind, that maybe it's just 1 more problem away from being completely reliable. I was thinking that maybe I would have better luck once the transmission issues were fixed. that's just not the way this car works for me though. I could sink more money into it, but then something else is going to break and I'm already moving on to other things. so I'd rather not spend another dollar on this thing. I'll get what I can for it and put it toward my next project.
 
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