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420A Need a good Master and Slave Cylinder

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ForsakenLash

Proven Member
156
0
Mar 15, 2013
Jacksonville, Florida
Due to my master cylinder leaking it is time to replace the master and slave cylinders for my clutch. I have a 97 RS, what im trying to find out is where can I order a good master and slave cylinder thats not gonna break the bank but be reliable? I refuse to go to a parts store around here and dont want to order a cheap one. I dont want a rebuild kit, I want to replace the entire kit and caboodle. Any suggestions?
 
how much we talkin? cause the OEM ones I found last night were $120 a piece and unfortunately even though Id like to put that on I dont have the funds for it.

checked both sites. not bad for the slave on extreme PSI, but the master is still a high. Its workable but is there anywhere to get the OEM master for a little less?

how good are Dorman parts?
 
Only problem with that is im not doing the work. I dont have the tools to do any of it and no one I can borrow them from nor the finances to buy them (in the process of moving and having to take care of a bunch of other things. Just put $600 into my wifes car for the front end and tires.) I have a guy who can come to my house and do it for $130 whos ASE certified and has his own shop but does mobile repairs on the side. He would charge more to rebuild it.
 
Hmmmmm. I guess one could try a slave/master from Rock Auto. Like I said, I haven't used them before so I can't tell you about quality.

It's too bad that this isn't in April, My wife and I are moving back to Jax so I feel you on the whole moving part. I grew up in Arlington and she grew up on the Westside.
 
Yeah we moved back up here a year and a half ago. I can pay the price I found em for, just trying to see if there is a cheaper option that is just as good. The more money I save the more I can get for the new house for the kids rooms LOL.
 
how much we talkin? cause the OEM ones I found last night were $120 a piece and unfortunately even though Id like to put that on I dont have the funds for it.

checked both sites. not bad for the slave on extreme PSI, but the master is still a high. Its workable but is there anywhere to get the OEM master for a little less?

how good are Dorman parts?

I would definitely stay away from Dorman parts. I have had numerous failures with their parts (mostly harmonic balancers), but I also got a stock manifold that came with a hole in it straight out of the box. They had tapped one of the runners for the heat shield bolt and drilled all the way through the runner:ohdamn:
 
I would definitely stay away from Dorman parts. I have had numerous failures with their parts (mostly harmonic balancers), but I also got a stock manifold that came with a hole in it straight out of the box. They had tapped one of the runners for the heat shield bolt and drilled all the way through the runner:ohdamn:

Ouch! That explains why their master and slave cylinders are $16 on amazon LOL.

also 99e im not sure I wanna put used parts on my car. bound to fail faster. If I have to ill order the OEMs from Extreme PSI as they seem to have the better price for those particular parts.
 
So im about to order the OEM master and slave from extreme psi, but it doesnt specify if its for my n/t or another model. Does it matter?
 
So Ive known for a little while that my master cylinder was leaking. I kept the fluid full, but now I think I need to just go ahead and replace it. Due to the leak I know I have air in my lines, so gonna have to bleed it obviously. Heres a few questions I have:

1. I know the rule of thumb is to replace the slave at the same time. What are my chances I can ride on the old slave for a couple of weeks if I just replace the master cylinder for now? Funds are a little short but I also dont wanna be stranded.

2. I have a rattle coming from the transmission but stops when I press my pedal in. I believe its the throw out bearing from the slave not fully disengaging due to the air in the lines. What are my odds this will go away once I get this replaced?

3. What are the odds that the bad master is causing clutch drag?
 
I've never heard of replacing your slave just because you're replacing you're master. If the slave isn't leaking, keep it.

A rattle that stops when you push the clutch pedal in does sound like TOB but the only real way to tell is to remove the trans and take a look at everything. It could be something with the clutch too. However, lack of throw would not be the cause for noise with your TOB. The bearing is either good or it's not.

A bad master can very much cause clutch drag. So can a poorly adjusted master. So can a bad clutch pedal assembly (you're on a 2g so not likely). So can a failing slave cylinder. So can air in the lines. There are a lot of factors there. However, if you know that the master is bad, I would replace it, do a thorough bleed to get all of the air out, and adjust the pushrod properly. If you still have clutch drag, something else is at fault.
 
So replacing just the master should be sufficient? Ive had mechanics and family members who work on their own cars tell me that replacing the master or slave but not the other can cause the old cylinder to become over powered and in turn go out.
 
gotcha. just trying to make sure I dont get stranded somewhere. Funds are a little low at the moment due to a very recent move
 
I've never heard of replacing your slave just because you're replacing you're master. If the slave isn't leaking, keep it.

A rattle that stops when you push the clutch pedal in does sound like TOB but the only real way to tell is to remove the trans and take a look at everything. It could be something with the clutch too. However, lack of throw would not be the cause for noise with your TOB. The bearing is either good or it's not.

A bad master can very much cause clutch drag. So can a poorly adjusted master. So can a bad clutch pedal assembly (you're on a 2g so not likely). So can a failing slave cylinder. So can air in the lines. There are a lot of factors there. However, if you know that the master is bad, I would replace it, do a thorough bleed to get all of the air out, and adjust the pushrod properly. If you still have clutch drag, something else is at fault.

Everything he said... Just replace the master and almost every car I've had has had a noisy throw out bearing even after doing a complete clutch job replacing everything.
 
Everything he said... Just replace the master and almost every car I've had has had a noisy throw out bearing even after doing a complete clutch job replacing everything.

really? Cause this is my 4th 5 speed and my 2nd DSM and its the only one Ive ever had with a noisy bearing. Thats wierd LOL. Can the rattling effect anything internally?
 
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