Need 2.1L options

[spyderdrifter]

I've been planning for a while now to do a 2.1 engine for a race engine. My 7 bolt spun some bearings and I decided to go 6 bolt for my DD engine. Turns out that the 6 bolt block may not be good after all which kinda sucks since I wasted the money on it. I am now considering getting a 2.4 short block from the salvage yard since older galants are plentiful. I need to know for sure which Gen galant I can get a block from, or if it even matters since it's just flipped around, and what connecting rods I should be using to do the 2.1 build. I know I'll need a 2.0L crank, but does it matter if it's 6 bolt or 7 bolt? Would be great if someone can shed some light on this topic. I haven't been lucky finding info. Thanks.

 

[finesse49ers]

You'll want a 4G64 from a 7th generation Galant, also you get a 4G64 from a GS Spyder. From your previous thread asking about this I see you already know about the 4G64 from a 3G Eclipse RS and GS which is setup opposite of the 2G but personally I don't feel like being bothered with that and rather keep it simple using the first two options I stated.

All 4G64 blocks are 7 bolts so you will need a 7 bolt 4G63 crank. If you want to do a 6 bolt 2.1L you'll need a Hyundai G4CS block along with a 6 bolt 4G63 crank.

Manley makes 156mm rods and 162mm long rods for the 7 bolt 4G64 destroked 2.1L. Both rods go on a 88mm stroke crank.

 

[spyderdrifter]

You'll want a 4G64 from a 7th generation Galant, also you get a 4G64 from a GS Spyder. From your previous thread asking about this I see you already know about the 4G64 from a 3G Eclipse RS and GS which is setup opposite of the 2G but personally I don't feel like being bothered with that and rather keep it simple using the first two options I stated.

All 4G64 blocks are 7 bolts so you will need a 7 bolt 4G63 crank. If you want to do a 6 bolt 2.1L you'll need a Hyundai G4CS block along with a 6 bolt 4G63 crank.

Manley makes 156mm rods and 162mm long rods for the 7 bolt 4G64 destroked 2.1L. Both rods go on a 88mm stroke crank.

I would prefer a 4g64 from either of those options, but a DSM spyder is very hard to find in any salvage yard here, which is why I'm looking into Galants now. Your info helps a lot. I now have a basis to start on. Are there any stock Mitsu rods I can use, or just is aftermarket my only option?

Is the 4GCS a 2.4? I would look it up myself, but I'm out having a couple beers and such.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Manley makes 156mm rods and 162mm long rods for the 7 bolt 4G64 destroked 2.1L. Both rods go on a 88mm stroke crank.

So I was browsing on ExtremePSI's website and decided to look through the rotating assemblies section and found that they sell complete assemblies for the 2.1 destrokers. However, they list 94mm for the stroke instead of the 88mm and 150mm & 156mm rod length compared to what you have mentioned. Which one is right? I'm not doubting your info, but these are things I need to get clarified before I buy anything.

 

[lasthope05]

What turbo are you going to be running and what kind of trans are you going to be using?

Im asking this because the whole point of even spending resources to build a 2.1 destroke is for the high 10k+ rpm shifts. There are two issues with this motor. One, if you are not utilizing a turbo(and cam) big enough to shift the power band up you will not be utilizing the upper rpms which is the whole point of a 2.1. Two, the stock trans dont like to shift at rpms that high.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I have noticed the crappy shift characteristics of these transmissions at the higher rpms. I always hated that. Not sure on turbo yet, but looking toward an Evo III 16g. Cams will be HKS 272s, unless I change my mind after I go through my high performance course at school. As far as the trans, would be something from Sheptrans. The 2.1 will be a gradual project though, so I still have all the time I want. Just trying to research and plan it all out before anything is bought.

 

[delta448]

A 92, 93 or 94mm is usually thought of as a 2.2L crank. You can displace less than 2150cc's with one, but usually they go in 2.4 blocks with bigger bores so that they can be used with longer rods. A 94mm with a stock unbored 2.0L block is 2134cc's, with a 0.020" overbore, it's 2159cc's.

If you really want to go to what is commonly known as a 2.1L destroker, you'll use a 2.4L block, a 2.0L crank, stroker pistons and a 162mm rod. You can also use standard pistons and a 156mm rod.

The crank throw (1/2 of the stroke), rod length and piston compression height should add up to very close to 235mm on a 2.4L block. On a 2.0L block, they need to add up to very close to 229mm.

A 16G is a great turbo, but you won't benefit spending the money on a 2.1L if that's the turbo you'll be using. Do a rebuild on the 2.0L or stroke it to a 2.3L, you'll spend much less on it and end up happier. Now, if you're planning on going to a turbo that can generate upwards of 500awhp in the future, a 2.1L might be worth looking at.

 

[spyderdrifter]

My plan is to use a 2.4 block with 2.0 crank. When you say STD piston with 156mm rod, are you referring to the std piston from the 2.4 block or 2.0 block? Are the stroked pistons of normal design with the wrist pin in the correct location? I have read through several, yet limited, discussions about this set up and one member was using pistons with the pin 6mm lower, which promotes piston slap. I want to avoid that issue.


I do like the info you've added btw, there's not enough of it on here for this displacement configuration.

 

[delta448]

I mean standard pin location, or in other words a piston with around 35mm compression height.

A stroker piston will have the pin location moved towards the crown 6mm, so it's around 29mm of compression height.

 

[spyderdrifter]

With a 'stroker' style piston that has the pin moved up as you say, are the piston skirts also shortened to prevent piston slap? Correct me if I'm thinking this the wrong way, but if lowering the pin causes slap on the crown side, wouldn't raising the pin cause slap on the skirt side?

 

[delta448]

You're thinking of it the wrong way. A longer skirt always controls slap better. Think of a throttle blade versus a beer can of the same diameter rocking back and forth.

In this case, moving the pin up helps too. Since the center of mass is closer to the pin bore, there is less force transferred from the piston to the bore wall.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I see. So by raising the pin, the need for a longer rod is achieved. I now see why I've seen so many rod lengths suggested.

 

[GPTourer]

You'll want a 4G64 from a 7th generation Galant, also you get a 4G64 from a GS Spyder. From your previous thread asking about this I see you already know about the 4G64 from a 3G Eclipse RS and GS which is setup opposite of the 2G but personally I don't feel like being bothered with that and rather keep it simple using the first two options I stated.

Did you ever confirm if the later 4G64s were unsuable? I was under the impression the blocks were the same, just mounted turned around in the later cars.

 

[WES_393]

No, they are not compatible.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/428378-newer-4g64-2g.html