My Turbo Set Up

[dsmclipse97]

Only way I could see that happening would be if he were reaching 1900* temperatures for an extended period of time. In which case the motor would be obsolete by the time the pipe got hot enough. I don't know how long you've been around turbo systems and I'm not questioning your knowledge, but I've seen plenty of welds break in my day. Welds that I couldn't have imagined budging...

well you are right, i dont have a ton of experiences with turbo systems but i am a very capable welder. those welds are top notch. the tube is recessed into the manifold and the welds are very well done. I could probably climb into his engine and stand on the damn thing and i bet the manifold studs would break long before that weld did. I dont think the weight of the turbo, extended out a few inches, is gonna make any difference.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

The chances of failure aren't dependent on the welds alone. As I said, the thing is constructed very well (including the welds). However, hundreds of heating and cooling cycles will take its toll on any metal. Normally that wouldn't be a significant problem (unless you use some very low grade metals), but I'm concerned about the junction between the mild steel flange and the stainless steel tubes. The two metals have different coefficients of thermal expansion, thus they will expand and contract at different rates. That puts an enormous amount of stress on the welds... plus, not only do the welds have to support their own weight, but the weight of a 30lb. turbo on top of it.

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

My brother in law owns a welding and fabrication shop in Westlake Ohio, so he know what he is doing. He made the manifold. Its made of all high grade 305ss, along with a custom stainless steel down pipe. You couldn’t use a stock GS-T down pipe, because you would be into the radiator. The turbo cant be angled quite straight down because of the starter, but its damn close. You might be able to get away with using a GS-T down pipe if you chopped it a little. for the most part, it was all pretty simple with the right equipment.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

Isn't the stock downpipe 2.25"? If so, I would just buy a flange and fab up at least a 2.5" one. Shouldn't be hard at all.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Isn't the stock downpipe 2.25"? If so, I would just buy a flange and fab up at least a 2.5" one. Shouldn't be hard at all.

along with a custom stainless steel down pipe.

I would only assume it was upped to 2.5"..?

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

2.5 turbo back.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

My brother in law owns a welding and fabrication shop in Westlake Ohio, so he know what he is doing. He made the manifold. Its made of all high grade 305ss, along with a custom stainless steel down pipe.

I'm sure he knows what he is doing. TIG welding is difficult to master, and properly welding SS to mild steel is even more difficult. However, manifolds are complex components because of the tough conditions they must endure. The construction of the manifold is one thing... something your brother-in-law obviously knows how to do.

The design is another, though. Like many manifolds, only time will tell whether or not it can really survive those wild temperature changes and differing thermal expansion rates. I'm just warning you... I would say the same thing to someone who made a more "conventional" style manifold with mild steel flanges and SS runners.

Overall, I think you did a really great job on this project; it's always nice to see something original.

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

The flange to the block is the only one that is 4130ht, the one to the turbo is SS.

 

[Shadow98]

My brother in law owns a welding and fabrication shop in Westlake Ohio, so he know what he is doing. He made the manifold. Its made of all high grade 305ss, along with a custom stainless steel down pipe. You couldn’t use a stock GS-T down pipe, because you would be into the radiator. The turbo cant be angled quite straight down because of the starter, but its damn close. You might be able to get away with using a GS-T down pipe if you chopped it a little. for the most part, it was all pretty simple with the right equipment.

The GS-T downpipe I tried fitting, wouldn't clear the crossmember...

 

[VelocitàPaola]

The GS-T downpipe I tried fitting, wouldn't clear the crossmember...

Yeah, but his turbo is oriented opposite to yours. His system is much more like an actual GS-T, which is why I asked.

 

[snox135]

I don't think everyone is trying to rip on your manifold. They are just pointing out there opinions on what they like and dislike.

Your flange is rusting already, which is not consistant with 4130 or 305 (which ever it is made from, you said both in different post). Using 4130 I would be worried about the strength of the material. Because 4130 (and most of the other low alloy steels) may be annealed at 1550 F for a time long enough to allow thorough heating of the section size. It should then be cooled in the furnace at a rate of less than 50 F per hour down to 900 F, followed by air cooling from 900 F. Which in a exhaust manfold application comes close to a natural annealing process.

I hope you are using some type of T-stat on your oil cooler before the turbo. Feeding your turbo with cold oil is not a good idea.

As others have said it looks like a well made manifold just not the best design. But for your application I doubt you are losing much from the design.

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

I took a old GS-T pipe and tried to use it.. The only problem was that the flange to the turbo would have to been cut off and welded on at an angle. The flex pipe was all messed up so I just said forget it, and made new. Any pics of my set up needed just let me know.

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

Your flange is rusting already, which is not consistant with 4130 or 305 (which ever it is made from, you said both in different post). Using 4130 I would be worried about the strength of the material. Because 4130 (and most of the other low alloy steels) may be annealed at 1550 F for a time long enough to allow thorough heating of the section size. It should then be cooled in the furnace at a rate of less than 50 F per hour down to 900 F, followed by air cooling from 900 F. Which in a exhaust manfold application comes close to a natural annealing process.

It was made by A certified welder/fabricator... I am sure he wouldn’t steer me in the wrong direction.

 

[awddynamite]

that thing kinda looks like a homemade log manifold JUST GOT HORNY. heheheh