My Turbo Set Up

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

Here are some Pics of my recently finished turbo set up. A few things are missing in these photos... bov.. power steering and finished exhaust. its fully finished now. If you would like a particular photo just let me know. ill take some new ones. Note: I Put Pusher fans on the radiator for extra clearance, added an oil cooler before the turbo, custom fab. the manifold and downpipe and welded my bov on the ic pipe.

 

[shiftdrift06]

Very unique set up I can say. The manifold makes me giggle inside alittle. Not in a bad way or anything. Could you get close up shots of the manifold? How does she run?

 

[RWKustoms]

I don't know about that manifold man, but can you get more close up shots of the entire engine bay, mainly focusing on the turbo/manifold. Is that your cold air that you still have in there?

 

[Locke]

Reminds me of how the turbo is mounted to a 4g63. I do like the manifold, though.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

Hmm, I don't know if I like that manifold that much. Post some more pics that show better detail.

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

close up.

 

[Locke]

My concerns are,

The turbo is pretty far from the head. I would worry about the weight of the turbo, the vibrations, and the length of the thing, breaking a weld. (at the collector in particular)

In the picture of the turbo, it looks like the pipe was straight welded against the turbo flange. I would add a couple gussets to the front, and a brace on the back going to the manifold flange between 2 and 3.

Also, the primaries seem a little big to me, for a turbo manifold. Of course, would want to see better pictures first, and know your goals.

Just some observations, not trying to be tactless or anything.

When I say I like the manifold, I mean I like the way it looks. Custom tubular turbo manifolds are mean, IMO.

Good work so far, man. Keep the pics of the install coming.

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

Here are some closer pics of the manifold... The tubes ARE recessed into the flanges which is made of 4130. The tubing is all stainless steel, the color change is from the heat of course. All off the welds are stainless steel tig welded. They were also welded on the back side of the flange then a surface grinder was used to make sure everything was perfectly flat. It has been on my car flawless for about 4 months. The tube that comes off the manifold looks much longer then it really is in the pic... It looks kinda weird in the pic.. I assure you it looks real clean in person.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

The original pics don't work for me..

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2221000-2221999/2221150_39_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2221000-2221999/2221150_38.jpg

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

Currently Running around 14psi. Going to be getting it tuned again hopefuly at around 18psi.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I agree with Locke. Definitely add some bracing on that main collector. Other than that, good job with everything!

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

Honestly.. there is no need for any bracing the way the tubes are put together.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Suit yourself, but as easy as it is to do and keep out of sight it's silly not to.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

I would definitely add some bracing. The constant weight of the turbo hanging on that thing plus the moving of the engine as the car is going is going to add some stress on it.

 

[Blitzeclips]

Oh boy.

I'm curious as to how long that will hold up....

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

I don’t understand why you all think that this will not hold up? Its no different then the ones most commonly use made of mostly cheep cast iron, except the 3 3/4in long collector allows the turbo to be mounted lower and in stock turbo way that makes it easier to run IC pipes with less bends and pipes needed. Its not like it was fab. up by some rookie with a 110v mig. I get what your saying about the weight hanging on it along with the movement of the motor, but its not like there is extremely excessive movement… and its not like its 100% solid that’s why your exhaust is on rubber hangers along with a flex pipe. maybe you need some new motor mounts… Personally I like the design better because it allows the turbo to be mounted lower with less congestion. I know its diffrent so I expect some negative and posative feedback. I will deffently do a review after a while of use to show if it holds up or not.

 

[Blitzeclips]

I don't understand why you all think that this will not hold up? Its no different then the ones most commonly use made of mostly cheep cast iron, except the 3 3/4in long collector allows the turbo to be mounted lower and in stock turbo way that makes it easier to run IC pipes with less bends and pipes needed. Its not like it was fab. up by some rookie with a 110v mig. I get what your saying about the weight hanging on it along with the movement of the motor, but its not like there is extremely excessive movement... and its not like its 100% solid that's why your exhaust is on rubber hangers along with a flex pipe. maybe you need some new motor mounts... Personally I like the design better because it allows the turbo to be mounted lower with less congestion. I know its diffrent so I expect some negative and posative feedback. I will deffently do a review after a while of use to show if it holds up or not.

Well, it looks like a log style manifold that someone slapped a 2.5" pipe onto and welded up. It's literally hanging off of the manifold. When people make turbos mounted that low, like the 4G63 set-up, all 4 of the ports are finally becoming one at that section. Thus, 4 different channels coming togetther as one solid structure with plenty of structural support. It's not one straight pipe for the turbo to hang off of.

I have been and driven in Ohio. There are ALOT of back roads with ridiculous bumps that WILL TEST the durability of that. Which I doubt will hold up. No offense.

Yes it is about %100 solid by the way. What section around the area you mounted that turbo has ANY free give or movement? Your hangers? That's to support the exhuast, not the manifold, newly added turbo, and any other component added into that realm.

Manifolds are also designed to utilize airflow efficiently. That extension is absolutely KILLING any type of airflow created in the process. Not only that, but it adds extended lengths for the charge to travel, create less response, or primarily turbo lag that wouldn't occur had it been mounted closer to the head.

It's your car and your set-up, if you like it stick to it. Atleast you're boosted now!

 

[BLACKpsiECLIPSE]

meeh. no matter what you do a log style manifold sucks dick. you have all of your air flow just colliding into one big mess depending on where you mount your turbo.. usually right in front of the #3 cylinder the flow still sucks. that’s ridiculous to say mine makes any difference because no matter what its the same amount of exhaust flow. flow test your manifold give me some cfm #'s and ill do mine... I bet you they are nearly the same. in the mean time even with your theory. my IC pipe has a lot less length and bends. so anything Id lose in having a 2 ¾ inch longer then the normal extension which would be nearly nothing to notice... I gain back in IC pipe flow... After 3 months of bumpy Ohio roads the manifold is still like new. Besides the normal brown color from the 1900* heat cycles.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Alright guys, lets keep the sidebars to PMs or the Regional Forums.

***

Now, your setup is definitely original; so I'll give you points for that. Is the turbo in the exact same position as that of a GS-T? If so, is that a GS-T downpipe?

I like how you (possibly) recycled so many parts from a turbo Eclipse. It shows ingenuity and frugality... this method seems like a good option for people on budgets, since many of the requisite parts can be obtained very easily, for little money.

In fact, if a manifold like that were sold, it would take out much of the custom work necessary to make a 420A turbokit.


Now, here's what I don't like about it... this configuration is akin to putting a round peg in a square hole. The 4G63 turbosystem was designed for 4G63 cars, which are mounted 180* in the opposite direction.

The IC piping and intake situation seems precarious since the passenger's side of the engine bay is already crammed with accessories. Honestly, I think by using a standard manifold, and a Hahn or other IC (with same side inlet/outlet), the engine bay is much less cluttered, and more balanced.

As for the manifold, can I ask who made it? Did you do it yourself? If so, good job on the construction. It looks well made, just not well designed. As mentioned before, that collector tube isn't doing anything good for air flow. Plus, by removing the turbo further from the head, inlet EGTs are diminishing quickly, causing a slower spool, and overall less power.

Additionally, that tube is just a big lever. Time will fatigue the welds, and one day it may crack. Furthermore, are the flanges mild or stainless? I think you'll find that cracking will be much more likely when you weld too dissimilar metals together.

Time is the largest factor here... of course nothing's going to fail immediately, but as more time passes, the likelihood of failure increases. If anything, I would suggest you definitely add a little bracing. There are several good mounting points on the block that are easily within range.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

meeh. no matter what you do a log style manifold sucks dick. you have all of your air flow just colliding into one big mess depending on where you mount your turbo.. usually right in front of the #3 cylinder the flow still sucks. that’s ridiculous to say mine makes any difference because no matter what its the same amount of exhaust flow. flow test your manifold give me some cfm #'s and ill do mine... I bet you they are nearly the same. in the mean time even with your theory. my IC pipe has a lot less length and bends. so anything Id lose in having a 2 ¾ inch longer then the normal extension which would be nearly nothing to notice... I gain back in IC pipe flow... After 3 months of bumpy Ohio roads the manifold is still like new. Besides the normal brown color from the 1900* heat cycles.

Not all log manifolds are complete crap... there is something to be said for the conventional design. The flow path is definitely less harsh with the turbo mounted right off the log. However, I do agree that for such low power levels, the differences are relatively negligible. Once you begin pushing for more power, there will be marked differences.

And 1900*F? That's a little warm... what kind of fuel system are you running?

 

[Blitzeclips]

FUNCTION > FORM
*not*
FORM> FUNCTION

That's all I'm going to say. ..

"As for the manifold, can I ask who made it? Did you do it yourself? If so, good job on the construction. It looks well made, just not well designed. As mentioned before, that collector tube isn't doing anything good for air flow. Plus, by removing the turbo further from the head, inlet EGTs are diminishing quickly, causing a slower spool, and overall less power."

Exactly. Just as I stated earlier, but in different terms..

 

[Locke]

Still being friendly here,

My only real turbo experience was with my '89 Sunbird (R.I.P.). I know 1900* EGT's on that meant I was replacing internals. I am unaware of the limits of the 420a (someone key me in, please?) but 1900* just seems hot.

And, in general, the cheap cast iron manifolds don't break near as often as tubular manifolds.

As far as bracing, we are talking about cutting and welding a piece of scrap steel. With parts still on the vehicle, we're talking what, 10 minutes?

(Blitz: I like your new avatar, easier to see)

 

[dsmclipse97]

i dont know... i like it, you guys seem awful critical about less than 3" of added piping... the "lever effect" that has been pointed out shouldnt be an issue although i think i would still brace it just for added safety.

As mentioned before, that collector tube isn't doing anything good for air flow. Plus, by removing the turbo further from the head, inlet EGTs are diminishing quickly, causing a slower spool, and overall less power.

we are talking about less than 3" here... what is that, like 10 rpms of later spool time? You could always heat wrap it. Common guys, those welds breaking? Im pretty sure the pipe itself would bend before that happened. It seems like alot of work was put in for not alot of gain but it looks original and if he likes it than more power to him.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

i dont know... i like it, you guys seem awful critical about less than 3" of added piping...

As Paul stated, it's clear that the difference of the turbo being mounted right off the log as opposed to how this manifold is right now wouldn't be noticable, but once the power output increases of the car as a whole, that could be a key factor in holding some back.

Common guys, those welds breaking? Im pretty sure the pipe itself would bend before that happened.

Only way I could see that happening would be if he were reaching 1900* temperatures for an extended period of time. In which case the motor would be obsolete by the time the pipe got hot enough. I don't know how long you've been around turbo systems and I'm not questioning your knowledge, but I've seen plenty of welds break in my day. Welds that I couldn't have imagined budging...