My timming is f@#$#$ or is it I dont know anything about timing.

[Flybiyou]

Did some pulls on my friend logger heres what I got.
rpm tim
2644 13
3160 15
3570 14
4007 12
4472 11
4894 9
5562 8
6015 11
6460 14



2nd run
1941 23
1996 22
2187 26
2429 18
2722 12
3097 14
3492 14
3902 13
4351 11
4863 9
5402 7
5863 10
6277 11

The car is at 12.2 to 1 and 11.5 to 1 afr on a wideband I know i am pulling timing like hell so what should I look at doing here. I hit 10 pounds of boost at 2800 and it dosent go up to 20 till 5800 something isint right my vac reads 10 at idle and she pulls but I can feel it slow down real fast in the rpms. It seems to pull harder at half throtle around 12 13 pounds. Mods or in profile and any other info needed just ask will give when need be. Thanks for all your help in advance.
AJ

 

[BenHenthorn]

Well, it looks like you've definately got a leak. If you don't reach full boost at 2500-3000 RPMs then I would check your I/C piping for problems. Because with a 16G you should be spooling pretty fast, and not full boost at 5800 RPMs.

As for timing, I use DSMLink V.2 and the strange thing is is that my timing doesnt shrink as my RPMs go up, and I sure don't get 23 degrees of timing at 2500 RPMs. The ECU usually adds timing when it's not seeing enough airflow, which also points to a leak.

So start with that and see how that helps.

 

[BoostInsideTSi]

I just spoke with AJ (flybiyou) on the phone and he said he just recently did a boost leak test and there were no leaks found. Could the turbo itself be bad? any other ideas?

 

[BenHenthorn]

If it's not a leak, can I assume that the turbo is clipped? Most users with FWD DSMs have their turbo clipped so it will reach full boost at around 5500 RPMs (used mostly for highway power). Another thing I see is that an FMIC is installed along with 3" turbo back exhaust relying on a small 16G for boost. I have an EVO III Big 16G ported out with a 28" wide intercooler and 3" turbo back exhaust, from my experience an FMIC will take longer to charge the air coming from the turbo due to the limited amount of air a 16G can push.

Do you have a blow-thru system? Because I would suggest finding a way to tune your airflow via GM MAF translator if you did have blow-thru. I use DSMLink V.2 to tune my airflow and just have my GM MAF translator set at stock levels.

As for the turbo being bad itself, I would say if it's boosting regularly and you do reach full boost that it's probably not broken. Although you could look at the actuator/wastegate and see if everything is hooked up correctly. It never hurts to check everything when anything can be wrong.

 

[Flybiyou]

The turbo I bought off a guy and I dont know if it is clipped or not. When I first got the car back it would hit hit full boost at 3600 rpms. Then one day it just stoped. It dosent make sense. I did a boost leak test nothing and then changed all the hoses and tested again to see if it still held still not leaking. I dont have a dsmlink so is there anything I can do or try to see if I can get my timing more stable. Im sick of this turbo anyways so I might be getting a evo3 soon.

 

[BenHenthorn]

If your turbo was working fine and one day it just stopped, then I would assume that maybe your compressor wheel is bad or cracked. In order to get your timing more stable you'll have to get your current turbo functioning correctly or look into that EVO 3. Otherwise your just going to be hurting your car. for now just turn down the boost and see what happens, perhaps lower boost levels may yield different spooling results.

 

[CYCLONE]

Correct me if I am wrog but timing gets pulled the the ecu detects knock.
Thats why you start with a good amount of timing then it starts to knock
so the ecu pulls timing, thats why the car feels slow at higher boost.
And after there is no more knock the ecu adds timing again. Also timing affects
spool up so I think that if you fix the knock issue boost will come on sooner.

 

[BoostInsideTSi]

cyclone, agreed. get your ass over here tommorow after work aj! we got some tuning to do.

 

[CYCLONE]

How old is that knock sensor tht might have something to do with it.
Everyone known that those never go bad .

 

[Flybiyou]

Knock you say that is what I was thinking. Except I thought if you used a POT MOD on a 6-bolt swap that it dosent look for knock thats why I dont get the random missfire. If it is working I couldnt log it anyways im a 2g. Do you have a sugestion on what would cause the knock. Where the timing drops off I run a 11.5 11.2 to 1 afr as says the printout on the wideband system my friends got so I think it gettting enough fuel im only hitting 14 15 pounds at that point and slowly make it to 20 21 pounds by 5800 still holding 11.2 to 11.7 to 1 afr. Then again I dont know to much about tuning yet just parts and install but hopefully with you guys I can learn some good info to get started . Each one of my friends has some tool for tuning so I have them when time comes to try and really tune (wideband with laptop read outs and tables - pocketlogger- etc. No friends with dynos yet still looking to meet one.

AJ

 

[CYCLONE]

I'm not very familiar with 2Gs but to my understanding the POT mod is for cam & crank
sensor issues. I don't think it is tied to the knock sensor in any way. Play around with
the potentiometer and see if it changes anything, but i doubt it will. Also make sure
that your base timing is where it should be. turn boos down to about 10-12 and see
if it still happens, airfuel readings are also affected by timing just like EGTs.

Missfires are not detected by the knock sensor crank sensor detects missfires.