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My new suspension lifted my car. WTF?

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GC wouldnt sell just the hats anymore, or just the perches. The guy on the phone even went and asked his manager, and couldn't get permission. I had to sort through a stock car catalog to find the hats I needed.

Yet another reason not to do business with them.:toobad:


For anyone who searches this thread in the future, all of the required parts are available from True Choice Koni Racing Services. (follow the link in post #18)
 
I have the RRE top bearing plates with Koni sports, the Koni coil over kit (part # 80.0000.1 from TrueChoice) and 8x 2 ¼ inch Hyperco springs. I am happy with the set up and have some comments:
-Top-hats
I managed to have GC send me their flat hat, which I bored to fit the Koni shaft. I did not expect it, but found that the Koni hat provides more clearance. This is due to its “cone” shape. Picture how the shock shaft moves about the upper bearing plate in steer on our 2Gs.
One more comment about hats, if you are improving your suspension with these expensive parts, but not using a top-hat, you are just fooling around.
- RRE bearing plate spacers
As Jtoby said, the smaller one goes below the plate. I took ½ inch off mine.

With this set up I lost no suspension travel at all. The limit continues to be the upper control arm against the inside fender. That reminds me, our stock bump stops can be used to do their thing (limit travel) just before the arm hits the inside fender.
 
Found the answer:

, so I wanted a similar length spring, but with a slightly larger spring-rate. .

Same length spring with larger spring rate gives you less deflection than your previous setup.

The difference you seek lies in the strut itself or length of the spring.
 
So, what exactly are the benefits of running a RRE upper bearing mount as apposed to the OE mount?

#1) You want the shock to damp all spring movement. If the shaft is held in the top mount by a squishy bushing, as it is stock, then the shaft can move up and down. A spherical bearing prevents this.

#2) You want the shaft to be able to pivot without resistance. Putting any kind of bending load on the shaft will cause stiction, at a minimum, and a bent shaft, at worst. Several people have bent the shafts on Konis (and other shocks) using those nasty black rocks that come with the GC upper plate.

- Jtoby
 
The shorter the spring (for a fixed rate), the less travel there is before it binds. A WRX on 4" springs makes it impossible to do what the car is made to do: rallycross.

- Jtoby
 
OK, another dilema.

I finally got the fronts on and there's aproblem. I have it sitting at almost the ride height that I want (it's currently about an inch or so too low), and the shock is bottomed out. It seems these Koni's have a rather long shock body. Anybody else ever have a problem getting the Koni's to go low enough?

And the rear isn't done yet either. It's currently setup with just a 7" Hyperco sitting on the perch with no sleeve. So, it's as low as it can go, and it could still stand to sit another inch or so lower in the rear.

So, I think I'm going to pull it all back off tonight. I'm going to throw the rear on the lathe and set another groove about 2" lower. But I'm still worried about the fronts. Even if I raise it another 1"-1.5", I still don't think I'll have sufficient travel in the shocks. Thoughts?

This is frusterating - I'm half tempted to spring for a set of D2's..... Sad to say, but I miss having a simple Tokico shock and lowering spring.
 
Koni is not too long, you are trying to go too low.
Your car will look pretty but not work; stock cars will be able to out corner you.
Been there, done that....Now there is a three finger gap between tire and fender on my GSX.
 
Koni is not too long, you are trying to go too low.
Your car will look pretty but not work; stock cars will be able to out corner you.
Been there, done that....Now there is a three finger gap between tire and fender on my GSX.
I just want it to sit the way it used to. It looked and functioned well before.

I'll work on it tonight, and see if I make any progress. If not, I might still go a different route.

Here's a pic of how it used to sit. I never considered it too low. What do you think?
 

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I threw the rear shocks on the lathe tonight, and I cut another groove 2" lower. It's much better now. I have everything back together and it's sitting "fine" by my standards, and I still have travel left in the shocks. I'll pull the front's off tomorrow and fix those.
 
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