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My Greddy Type-S BOV Broken?

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ILLiCliPSE

20+ Year Contributor
1,576
4
Jan 11, 2003
Boynton Beach, Florida
Hey guys...
My Greddy Type-S BOV came in yesterday. I bought it used and had a question. The bov is set to hard, yet I can still push in the pistol relatively easily. Yes it does take some force but I can open it basically with one hand. Also, does the bov seem to be open all of the way? I push it as far as it goes and it stops (see pic). Is the piston suppose to travel further than that?

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^^ pic of the bov pushed all the way open

Thanks for the help,
Brian
 
well the hard and soft setting are relative to how long the valve will stay open. Softer settings will allow the piston to stay open for a longer interval, and harder settings just the opposite. I dont recall mine opening to its fullest when I was checking mine out. I have a maft blow thru set-up and mine works just fine. Its really loud.
Good luck man.
 
Yeah I say install it and adjust the spring and see how it sounds. Hopefully it still works
 
You see that little nipple comming out of the bottom silver part? Use it, you need to find an ALL BOOST source for it. You will love your Type-S more after this.

Using this nipple, should allow you to keep the bov on full hardness and still work perfectly.
 
ILLiCliPSE said:
Hey guys...
My Greddy Type-S BOV came in yesterday. I bought it used and had a question. The bov is set to hard, yet I can still push in the pistol relatively easily.
Brian

You bought it used I see.

Take it apart. Easy with an allen wrench, making sure to hold the top down while unscrewing the bolts. Lift the top off slowly.

Ten bucks says the previous owner did the one spring mod (removing the lighter of the two springs in a stock Type-S BOV to reduce flutter at lower boost levels.)

For the general idea: http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=1&tech_id=7

If there is one spring, I'm right, and I'm :cool: The previous owner owes you a spring.

If there's two springs, I'm wrong, and that's just how much resistance the BOV has. It will hold relatively high levels of boost.

:dsm:

One more idea here. When you take it apart, make sure there is a metal "washer" in-between the springs and the adjustment screw on top. If that's missing, the BOV is all the way "soft," tightening will be useless, as the springs will not preload.

I'm curious now, so post back when you find out eh?
 
UofACATS said:
You bought it used I see.

Take it apart. Easy with an allen wrench, making sure to hold the top down while unscrewing the bolts. Lift the top off slowly.

Ten bucks says the previous owner did the one spring mod (removing the lighter of the two springs in a stock Type-S BOV to reduce flutter at lower boost levels.)

For the general idea: http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=1&tech_id=7

If there is one spring, I'm right, and I'm :cool: The previous owner owes you a spring.

If there's two springs, I'm wrong, and that's just how much resistance the BOV has. It will hold relatively high levels of boost.

:dsm:

One more idea here. When you take it apart, make sure there is a metal "washer" in-between the springs and the adjustment screw on top. If that's missing, the BOV is all the way "soft," further tightening will be useless, as the springs will not preload.

I'm curious now, so post back when you find out eh?

Going off of this usefull info, you will want to do A.) get that 2nd spring back in there if its gone and B.) Do what I posted above regarding the 2nd nipple. GoodThinking UofACATS
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
You see that little nipple comming out of the bottom silver part? Use it, you need to find an ALL BOOST source for it. You will love your Type-S more after this.

Just an FYI for you lurkers. :sneaky:

"ALL BOOST" source example would be your lower intercooler pipe, where during your shift or BOV operation, there is still some positive pressure. This pressure helps push open the valve, assisting execution.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Going off of this usefull info, you will want to do A.) get that 2nd spring back in there if its gone and B.) Do what I posted above regarding the 2nd nipple. GoodThinking UofACATS


Thanks :D

On the 2nd spring, I'd say YMMV. Check the link, albeit for EVO, the chart is helpful. (It's probably mod dependent.)

Good point about the second source. :thumb:
 
UofACATS said:
Just an FYI for you lurkers. :sneaky:

"ALL BOOST" source example would be your lower intercooler pipe, where during your shift or BOV operation, there is still some positive pressure. This pressure helps push open the valve, assisting execution.

Right, so all the holding power of the dual springs set on high, with the ease to open like theres no spring at all in there.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Right, so all the holding power of the dual springs set on high, with the ease to open like theres no spring at all in there.

/\ The best set up. Thanks for the good info..
 
You bought it used I see.

Take it apart. Easy with an allen wrench, making sure to hold the top down while unscrewing the bolts. Lift the top off slowly.

Ten bucks says the previous owner did the one spring mod (removing the lighter of the two springs in a stock Type-S BOV to reduce flutter at lower boost levels.)

For the general idea: http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=1&tech_id=7

If there is one spring, I'm right, and I'm :cool: The previous owner owes you a spring.

If there's two springs, I'm wrong, and that's just how much resistance the BOV has. It will hold relatively high levels of boost.

:dsm:

One more idea here. When you take it apart, make sure there is a metal "washer" in-between the springs and the adjustment screw on top. If that's missing, the BOV is all the way "soft," tightening will be useless, as the springs will not preload.

I'm curious now, so post back when you find out eh?


yea i just bought one off some guy in the classifieds he did this mod ecept he took out the big spring and left the small one inside my baby sister can push it open...does anyone know were to get another spring?
 
well the hard and soft setting are relative to how long the valve will stay open. Softer settings will allow the piston to stay open for a longer interval, and harder settings just the opposite. I dont recall mine opening to its fullest when I was checking mine out. I have a maft blow thru set-up and mine works just fine. Its really loud.
Good luck man.

So if your valve is set on the soft setting to stay open longer does this mean it will take longer to close under hard driving / wot situations and cause some lag?
 
yea i just bought one off some guy in the classifieds he did this mod ecept he took out the big spring and left the small one inside my baby sister can push it open...does anyone know were to get another spring?

AH! Ten bucks...


ROFL


If the guy really took the large spring out then his greddy valve will start to leak somewhere around 11 psi, or less than the stock valve. Not really that great of an idea. Maybe he has a evo3 16G and only wants to run 11ish psi? The turbo creeps to 20 but he sees 11 LOL Anyway, most who do the mod are going to want the larger spring, so finding one will take you being really lucky. You'll probably have to buy one that is damaged or leaking. The spring will be fine though.

If you cant find one, for 25 bucks you could buy a knock-off Greddy valve, take it apart, remove the spring you need, and throw the rest in the trash.
 
So if your valve is set on the soft setting to stay open longer does this mean it will take longer to close under hard driving / wot situations and cause some lag?


It only stays open when there is vacuum in your manifold opening the valve. There is no delay in the valve shutting when you get on the gas.
 
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