jmt2028
Proven Member
- 55
- 55
- Apr 13, 2022
-
Memphis,
Tennessee
I started my build a little over a year ago. What started as a minor oil leak on the timing side lower portion of the block, will end up finished as a complete high performance rebuild. Although the motor ran great prior to the rebuild, replaced the oil pan while still in the car and it did not resolve my oil leak, I decided to pull the motor and do a complete rebuild. I projected around 9k-10k budget but now I am probably around 5k over budget 
. I guess typical for a DSM build but in reality it was every little nut and bolt that added up quickly and also choosing to go Holset HX35 twin scroll 
Pretty much just going to give a run down of what I have invested into the car and will follow with pics later.
I pulled the motor and did a complete disassembly in my garage down to bare block. Dropped the block off at a local machine shop in the Memphis area and had the blocked decked, honed, and cleaned. Freeze plugs were in good shape according to the machinist so I left those alone. Brought the block home and painted it with high temp black ceramic paint for a fresh touch on the motor. Also had the crank shaft cleaned and polished at the machine shop. Block was in great shape, in my personal opinion and the opinion of the machine shop. Cylinder walls looked great even before honing (honing was necessary only to prepare for new pistons and rings).
From this point on it was paycheck to paycheck doing research and buying parts one week to the next as I am sure many of us do. The overall budget was not that big of a deal but not having the money all at one time to pursue this goal was what made this a lengthy project but in reality having to spend the time waiting gave me the ability to research thoroughly and make better decisions on behalf of the parts and input the engine was going to get for the end goal I wanted from the car. My goal is around the 500hp mark, I'll be happy with a little less and I'll be thrilled if I achieve a little more.
I researched every part and every piece of input that went into the motor, made a few expensive mistakes along the way, learned from it and pressed on. The only thing I did not do 100 percent myself (aside from the machine work) was the cylinder head. I bought a complete fresh rebuilt cylinder head from a trusted member on this forum for a price I couldn't refuse. Cylinder head was freshly rebuilt with a clean mating surface, stock sized ferrea stainless steel valves, bc2100s srpings and retainers, bronze valve guides, new valve locks, valve stems seals, original matching cam caps. Cylinder head did not come with cams so I picked up a set of Kelford 264 cams with AEM adjustable cam gears to compliment the low to mid range power band of the Holset HX35 t3 twin scroll turbo I picked up for also an amazing price from a whole sale distributor.
My build - 1995 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD (All parts listed are new and if something isn't listed it is because I used the original OE equipment that was already on the car like crank sprocket, pulleys, etc..)
Cylinder Head:
BC 101s springs
BC2100s retainers
Ferrera stainless steels valves (stock size)
Bronze valves guides
New valve locks
Ferrea valve stems seals
3g lifters and Mistubishi Rollers
Kiggly HLA
Kelford 264 cams
AEM adjustable cam gears
ARP cam gear bolts
Valve cover has 2 -10an ports welded to cover for pcv
JMF race intake manifold
s90 70mm throttle body
Block:
85mm Manley pistons (ptw clearance ended up being around 0.0045-0.005, a little looser than I anticipated but I think it will be fine for what I will achieve) (For those of you that don' know the Manley pistons for the 4g63 generally come with a built in clearance measurement of 0.0035)(Piston ring gaps are 0.0021 top ring and 0.0024 second ring)
Eagle rods
ACL rod bearings (stock size rod bearings put my clearance at 0.002)
ACL main bearings (stock sized for one half of the bearing and +0.001 additional oil clearance bearing for the other half, put my clearance at 0.0025 on the mains)
ARP main studs
Mitsubishi OE crank shaft cleaned and polished
Mitsubishi composite head gasket
Mitsubishi timing components except for the hydraulic timing belt tensioner which is a Gates product
Mitsubishi timing belt
Mitsubishi front case with new oil pump and helical cut gears
Balance shaft delete with stubby shaft
Mitsubishi rear main seal housing
All new seals, all Mitsubishi
Gates water pump
Mitsubishi main bolts (I decided I didn't want to go ARP on the mains only because I did not want to have to get the mains align bored/honed but I know the 2g mains are torque to yield so I bought new Mitsubishi main bolts to go in when I did final assembly) Some of you will hate me for this one (;
7bolt forward facing oil filter housing with Mishimoto oil filter sandwich plate
Evo knock sensor
Prothane motor mount bushings on timing side and transmission mounts
Torque solutions front and rear motor mounts
Fuel:
Walbro 255 fuel pump re-wired
Fuel lab fuel filter (OE lines to filter and -6an lines from filter to fuel rail and from fuel rail to pressure regulator)
Fuel lab AFPR
FIC high-z 1200cc injectors
Transmission:
Transmission is stock with new fluid
Transfer case is stock with new fluid
Differential is stock with new fluid
ACT Streetlite flywheel
ARP flywheel bolts
Southbend endurance stage 2 clutch and pressure plate
Bronze bushings in shifter cables under hood and new bushings on shifter assembly in cab as well as new aluminum base mounting bushings
Mitsubishi clutch fork and pivot ball
Turbo:
All hot parts were made by CCDesign in Colorado
-t3 twinscroll manifold (this thing is a work of art)
-custom o2 housing (titanium heat wrapped)
-dual 38mm wastegate dumptubes
-4inch aluminum air intake also made by Chris at CCDesign with -10an port for pcv (vented through Mishimoto sealed catch can with oil baffle)
Holset hx35 turbo 8blade with 14cm housing (-4an oil feed line off oil filter housing to turbo with inline oil filter, no restictor)(Holset 3/4" oil drain from Morrison Fabrications)
Tial 38mm wastegates
Tial Q sport bov
Holman manual boost controller
Funk Motorsports lava blanket
Cooling:
ETS 4" race intercooler
Mishimoto radiator
Spal 10" pusher fans x2
3" intercooler piping all the way to throttle body, 4ply black silicon couplers
Electronics"
Glowshift oil pressure gauge
Glowshift oil temp gauge
Glowshit water temp gauge
Zeitronix v2 digital display with AFR, EGT, and boost displays
ECMlink v3 full
I am sure I am missing some things or there are many other minor details of new hardware and new sensors along the way I replaced during this process but that is the overall layout of the build. The engine is currently back in the car and almost ready for base map tune and first start up. VR1 conventional racing 30w motor oil for break-in, will switch over to 40w after break-in period and potentially 50w depending on oil pressures. Let me know what you guys think and offer up questions, comments, and concerns. I want the good bad and the ugly!!
. I guess typical for a DSM build but in reality it was every little nut and bolt that added up quickly and also choosing to go Holset HX35 twin scroll Pretty much just going to give a run down of what I have invested into the car and will follow with pics later.I pulled the motor and did a complete disassembly in my garage down to bare block. Dropped the block off at a local machine shop in the Memphis area and had the blocked decked, honed, and cleaned. Freeze plugs were in good shape according to the machinist so I left those alone. Brought the block home and painted it with high temp black ceramic paint for a fresh touch on the motor. Also had the crank shaft cleaned and polished at the machine shop. Block was in great shape, in my personal opinion and the opinion of the machine shop. Cylinder walls looked great even before honing (honing was necessary only to prepare for new pistons and rings).
From this point on it was paycheck to paycheck doing research and buying parts one week to the next as I am sure many of us do. The overall budget was not that big of a deal but not having the money all at one time to pursue this goal was what made this a lengthy project but in reality having to spend the time waiting gave me the ability to research thoroughly and make better decisions on behalf of the parts and input the engine was going to get for the end goal I wanted from the car. My goal is around the 500hp mark, I'll be happy with a little less and I'll be thrilled if I achieve a little more.
I researched every part and every piece of input that went into the motor, made a few expensive mistakes along the way, learned from it and pressed on. The only thing I did not do 100 percent myself (aside from the machine work) was the cylinder head. I bought a complete fresh rebuilt cylinder head from a trusted member on this forum for a price I couldn't refuse. Cylinder head was freshly rebuilt with a clean mating surface, stock sized ferrea stainless steel valves, bc2100s srpings and retainers, bronze valve guides, new valve locks, valve stems seals, original matching cam caps. Cylinder head did not come with cams so I picked up a set of Kelford 264 cams with AEM adjustable cam gears to compliment the low to mid range power band of the Holset HX35 t3 twin scroll turbo I picked up for also an amazing price from a whole sale distributor.
My build - 1995 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD (All parts listed are new and if something isn't listed it is because I used the original OE equipment that was already on the car like crank sprocket, pulleys, etc..)
Cylinder Head:
BC 101s springs
BC2100s retainers
Ferrera stainless steels valves (stock size)
Bronze valves guides
New valve locks
Ferrea valve stems seals
3g lifters and Mistubishi Rollers
Kiggly HLA
Kelford 264 cams
AEM adjustable cam gears
ARP cam gear bolts
Valve cover has 2 -10an ports welded to cover for pcv
JMF race intake manifold
s90 70mm throttle body
Block:
85mm Manley pistons (ptw clearance ended up being around 0.0045-0.005, a little looser than I anticipated but I think it will be fine for what I will achieve) (For those of you that don' know the Manley pistons for the 4g63 generally come with a built in clearance measurement of 0.0035)(Piston ring gaps are 0.0021 top ring and 0.0024 second ring)
Eagle rods
ACL rod bearings (stock size rod bearings put my clearance at 0.002)
ACL main bearings (stock sized for one half of the bearing and +0.001 additional oil clearance bearing for the other half, put my clearance at 0.0025 on the mains)
ARP main studs
Mitsubishi OE crank shaft cleaned and polished
Mitsubishi composite head gasket
Mitsubishi timing components except for the hydraulic timing belt tensioner which is a Gates product
Mitsubishi timing belt
Mitsubishi front case with new oil pump and helical cut gears
Balance shaft delete with stubby shaft
Mitsubishi rear main seal housing
All new seals, all Mitsubishi
Gates water pump
Mitsubishi main bolts (I decided I didn't want to go ARP on the mains only because I did not want to have to get the mains align bored/honed but I know the 2g mains are torque to yield so I bought new Mitsubishi main bolts to go in when I did final assembly) Some of you will hate me for this one (;
7bolt forward facing oil filter housing with Mishimoto oil filter sandwich plate
Evo knock sensor
Prothane motor mount bushings on timing side and transmission mounts
Torque solutions front and rear motor mounts
Fuel:
Walbro 255 fuel pump re-wired
Fuel lab fuel filter (OE lines to filter and -6an lines from filter to fuel rail and from fuel rail to pressure regulator)
Fuel lab AFPR
FIC high-z 1200cc injectors
Transmission:
Transmission is stock with new fluid
Transfer case is stock with new fluid
Differential is stock with new fluid
ACT Streetlite flywheel
ARP flywheel bolts
Southbend endurance stage 2 clutch and pressure plate
Bronze bushings in shifter cables under hood and new bushings on shifter assembly in cab as well as new aluminum base mounting bushings
Mitsubishi clutch fork and pivot ball
Turbo:
All hot parts were made by CCDesign in Colorado
-t3 twinscroll manifold (this thing is a work of art)
-custom o2 housing (titanium heat wrapped)
-dual 38mm wastegate dumptubes
-4inch aluminum air intake also made by Chris at CCDesign with -10an port for pcv (vented through Mishimoto sealed catch can with oil baffle)
Holset hx35 turbo 8blade with 14cm housing (-4an oil feed line off oil filter housing to turbo with inline oil filter, no restictor)(Holset 3/4" oil drain from Morrison Fabrications)
Tial 38mm wastegates
Tial Q sport bov
Holman manual boost controller
Funk Motorsports lava blanket
Cooling:
ETS 4" race intercooler
Mishimoto radiator
Spal 10" pusher fans x2
3" intercooler piping all the way to throttle body, 4ply black silicon couplers
Electronics"
Glowshift oil pressure gauge
Glowshift oil temp gauge
Glowshit water temp gauge
Zeitronix v2 digital display with AFR, EGT, and boost displays
ECMlink v3 full
I am sure I am missing some things or there are many other minor details of new hardware and new sensors along the way I replaced during this process but that is the overall layout of the build. The engine is currently back in the car and almost ready for base map tune and first start up. VR1 conventional racing 30w motor oil for break-in, will switch over to 40w after break-in period and potentially 50w depending on oil pressures. Let me know what you guys think and offer up questions, comments, and concerns. I want the good bad and the ugly!!
