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My 99' RS Project log

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nedmonds86

Probationary Member
23
0
Apr 19, 2008
Monroe, Michigan
Well I traded in my 2000 eclipse GT for a 1999 eclipse RS. Compensation was made for the difference of course. When I got the car it had a bad radiator, bad throwout bearing, blown head gasket, BALD tires, bad plugs, bad wires, dented hood, door, rear quarter, fender and rocker, no radio and a broken door handle. Wasn't exactly a GEM. Since then (1 month ago) the car has had a long, long journey and I would just like to share it with some fellow DSM fans. It is a N/A 420 engine but I have a garret that I need to fab plumbing for.

Here she is bone stock (except the rims off my 00' GT) the day I drove her home!
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/zxcvxbc.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/vjvn.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/snhfnf.jpg

One of my first mods, the headlights were so foggy you could not even see inside. I used turtle wax polishing compound and they look like new.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/headlights.jpg

Next I installed my rear bumper cover, actually fit pretty nicely. The guy I bought the kit from hadn't mounted anything but the rear bumper cover, and he tryed to shave the backup lights, the patches fiber glass had since been removed.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/rearbodykit.jpg

I then started molding the rear bumper.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/drvmold.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/passmold.jpg

As for the blown head gasket, I pulled off the head and dropped it off to the machinist for flattening, pressure check, and valve seating.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/enginenohead.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/block2.jpg

Here you can see my polished headers covered in dryed up coolant from the gasket.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/block.jpg

Here you can see cylinder number three, and the cylinder wall lookin damn pretty for 130k miles. That debree is from the plastic timing gear cover.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/cylinder3.jpg

This is the front bumper being test fitted and then attached. I had to drill all new holes because 90% of the stock bolts snapped on their way out. I still have to paint the core support black due to the fact that it sticks out like a sore thumb. I also had to remove the 5mph bumper, hope I don't rear end anyone! Just installing the front cover I think I gutted a good 20lb's of plastic, plus the 20lb bumper.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/SSCN1815.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/frontsidebk.jpg

Installing the sideskirts was a bi***. The kit is from andy's autosports. The side skirts are actually a quarter inch too short, it shows on my inner wheel wells but I'm going to work some magic with some short haired fiberglass. They are pop riveted on the wheel well's for now. I haven't decided how to attach the underside, maybe self tapping sheet metal screws? Advice is welcome in open arms!
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/passside.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/sidebodykit.jpg

This is the brunt of the work I have done so far. I installed some nice MA audio component speakers with tweeters and passive crossovers. I removed the interior to put fiber glass on the inner body behind the dent in the passenger rear quarter, which you can see in the pictures. I haven't started on the outside yet. Heres an interior shot.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/insid.jpg

The interior is spotless, I'm going to install a short shift, or cut the stock one down an inch. I have polished headers and a cold air intake. All of the red panels have replaced a panel that was dented, I managed to pick up a 1996 eclipse with a bad trans for 350 dollars and the body was in GREAT shape.

So go ahead, give it to me straight, what do you guys think? Any advice, ideas, and criticism is great appreciated. Also, I'm not some 16 year old kid doing this work which we seem to be seeing alot lately. I'm 22 years old and have made STEADY progress on this in the past couple weeks.
 
Reserved for updates!

PS, fun fact, those first three shots are me being bored. I had to stop there because I didn't tighten my lug nuts enough and my wheels almost fell off. I had to wait for my buddy to bring me a tire iron, hah!
 
Looks like a fun project, And not all 16 year olds are dumb, Im only 15 and im basically redoing my whole car and making steady progress. (look at some threads ive started to see a little of what im talking about) I need to start a build log i guess.....
 
Looks like a fun project, And not all 16 year olds are dumb, Im only 15 and im basically redoing my whole car and making steady progress. (look at some threads ive started to see a little of what im talking about) I need to start a build log i guess.....

I hear ya. I was doing the same at your age. With the exact same car I still have. LOL.

Looks good man. Let us know how that garett hooks up for ya.
 
Did all the research on this kit last night, and wow, this thing is literally fool proof on the installation side! Turns out the one nozzle it came with is the one i wanted to start with. It has the 25mm nozzle, which is in essence a 25 shot (I think).

Since my compression is great and my upper end is being overhauled I'm going to start with a 25mm nozzle and run it for a month. If i have no issues I'm going to machine myself a 55mm nozzle and then hit the streets. :mad:
 
I like the progress. I have nothing against body kits and I think most of the 2g one's look nice when molded, painted and accompanied with the right wheels. I'd also drop it in the near future which really compliments the 2g styling. And I'm an owner of both a 1g awd and 2gnt. I plan on ricing the heck out of my 2g this summer. Just cause it's a project and it's mines. Don't let anyone detour you from your project as I detest when a turbo owner states that "modding" a n/t is worthless. They don't understand that some people just like styling and not horsepower.
 
I like the progress. I have nothing against body kits and I think most of the 2g one's look nice when molded, painted and accompanied with the right wheels. I'd also drop it in the near future which really compliments the 2g styling. And I'm an owner of both a 1g awd and 2gnt. I plan on ricing the heck out of my 2g this summer. Just cause it's a project and it's mines. Don't let anyone detour you from your project as I detest when a turbo owner states that "modding" a n/t is worthless. They don't understand that some people just like styling and not horsepower.



Couldn't have put it better myself.
 
While we don't have any specific provisions for log threads like these, it can stay as long as it's kept basically technical in nature. Appearance/exterior questions and comments can go in their respective forum. We also don't need superfluous comments from members, just constructive criticism and answers to the OP's questions.
 
The venom kits are very good kits. If it wasn't for the easy install you get with a zex kit I would def go with one of venoms kits. They are both dry kits so I would look into a upgraded fuel pump if you ever want to jump up from that 25 shot to something bigger like a 50 or 75 shot. I don't about these guy but I was not doing thsi kinda work at 16. Def +1 on the hands on:thumb: Do you plan on keeping the car red or going with a different color scheme?
 
Sorry for not updating yesterday. Was hella busy. Yeah I used to hang out over at ocforums.com, (computer geek forums) and whenever we would start a big project we would keep a thread and share our experience with other members. Maybe someone can learn something from the info I put up, who knows.

I got the zex kit in at it's amazing, I really lucked out finding it for 100 bucks! I took out my backseat and cut a 12 inch slit between the seatbelt cavity's and pulled out material so that the seat would almost cradle the bottle, then I mounted the hoop thing above the fuel pump. I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out!

This is where the top bracket mounted.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/backsteanos2.jpg
This is what it looked like with no bottle and before I molded the seat.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/nosinstalltape.jpg
Heres the bottle in and molded!
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/nos436356.jpg
Badass view from the back seat :p
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/nosbackseat.jpg

The duct tape is temporary until I get the car home so I can break out the spray adhesive and sewing kit! Wee

Next up is the stock bus shifter (sarcasm). That thing was way to tall for my liking. I originally took out an inch but it still seemed way to tall. Pics belowww!

Here is the shifter stock.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/insid.jpg
Here it is on the bench about to get cut down!
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/shift4.jpg
And heres the finished product, took off a good 3-4 inches in the end. :S
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/shortshift.jpg

I got the head bolted on now, got it back from the shop and it was nice and sparkly.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/shinyhead.jpg

I screwed up and didn't put the timing belt pulley on before I bolted the head down, I had to loosen the entire bracket that bolts to the engine mount, not an easy task. On top of that I have the plunger style tensioner pulley, I just ended up finangling a crowbar to get the timing belt back on :D It can be done!

I mounted the venom control module under my center console on top of the shift linkage behind the radio, wires are just long enough to reach. I took the cutting wheel to the mounting plate for the linkage and totally removed it, that left me oodles of room for wiring and even the main n20 line. I wouldn't recommend trying to run anything through here unless you have VERY small hands or else you will have to remove your intake manifold.

I found a cool little fire extinguisher in a 1996 eclipse I bought, it's empty but I thought it just looked neat. I think I can get it filled for a fee or maybe even free.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/fireext.jpg

I'm behind a day on my updates, today I got the whole engine back together minus the intake manifold. Will have pics tomorrow night. If I can get my manifold back on quick enough then I might be able to start the painting process tomorrow.

BTW, this car is my inspiration:
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/av.jpg

As far as paint, I am painting in flat black primer, painting the wheels and calipers as well. I'd like to take the euros apart and change the chrome to flat black as well. My headlights already have the black blackrounds. Windows will be tinted all the way out, illegal here and michigan but whats a fix it ticket? :p

Things to do:
I decided to run straight pipes, removing the cat, and muffler and replacing with "cherry bombs", aka resonators, should keep it quiet enough to keep the police off of me, plus get a nice hp boost.

Anyone have any thoughts on the straight pipes?

All input and ideas welcome!
 
I dont know a whole lot about exhaust, But in a nt you mite lose power with straight pipes as NT motor needs some back pressure. By the way the car you posted that pic of is the car of the member "Flash"

Edit: Sorry thats ''absolute_DSM''s car not ''Flash''
 
Sorry for the delay to the few of you following this.

Okay, I got the manifold back on without a hitch. I made a major booboo when I installed my head. I thought I had all of the wiring harnesses out of the way and it turns out I torqued the head down and squished the wiring to the coild-pack. I was lucky because it was only a quarter inch under the rear driver side corner, i was able to yank it out. I started the car up, started up first try, but was oil was streaming out. I thought i had broke teh gasket. We ended up taking off of the valve cover gasket, tightened that corner back down and the oil leak stopped.

Flushed the coolant and changed the oil. Oil needs to be changed again. I drove it home and I am very proud of myself, no overheating, ran great. Heres a pic of the engine now.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/motor.jpg

I decided on removing my exhaust from the header back. I am going to gut the cat, we have no emission checks here (MI) so i wont get in trouble. And I am building a custom O2 sensor simulator that will be mounted in a water proof box made out of sheet metal mounted on the under carriage somewhere. I am going to replace the inside of the muffler with a pipe drove through it. I will essentially be running a straight pipe resonated by the cat. I was thinking about maybe fitting part of a cheap glasspack inside the cat. Does anyone know if this is been done before? I have been doing alot of research on back pressure and these types of mods. If back pressure becomes a problem (which it shouldnt), or if i lose way to much on the low end of the curve, i am going to fit some sort of variable valve in the exhaust stream, maybe adjustable on the fly? INPUT WANTED

I started laying the paint last night at like 2 am under a street light in my parking lot, looking pretty good in my opinion. Pics:
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/passsidepaint.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/frontpaint.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/frontdrvpaint.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk315/nedmonds86/drsidpaint.jpg

I also decided NOT to install the nitrous, someone gave me an offer and it was too good to pass up.
 
Nice clean build! as far as your exhaust, gut your cat, weld in a straight pipe and get an Apexi N1 muffer (or a look alike) and it will sound real deep and noticeable power gain. I did it to my N\T and wow... what a difference.
 
I agree with that thread for the most part but in reality he compares apples to oranges a car making 6500 hp is not going to have a problem with scavenging so As big as possible is of course the train of thought. But all I can go off is real world experience and logic. I went from stock catback to N1 style 3" w/ necks at the connectors on my car when it was just I/H/E and my low end power was sad. If I would have went with straight pipe I would have felt like I had turbo lag without the turbo. I will say that top end will always prosper from less back pressure but in a car that's NA especially a street car going straight pipes will hurt you more than help you
 
Backpressure is an unwanted side-effect of an exhaust system with good scavenging characteristics. Free-flowing exhaust systems will tend to cause a slight loss of low-end power due to the lack of adequate cylinder scavenging.

It has nothing to do with back-pressure - back-pressure is always bad.
 
Backpressure is an unwanted side-effect of an exhaust system with good scavenging characteristics. Free-flowing exhaust systems will tend to cause a slight loss of low-end power due to the lack of adequate cylinder scavenging.

It has nothing to do with back-pressure - back-pressure is always bad.

I agree that's why in my last post I was saying that going open pipe is not the answer either but lack of back pressure will always help out top end. Not that back pressure is good just that scavenging is good for low end power which goes hand in hand with back pressure. You can't have a engine with 150whp that doesn't have at least some back pressure and still has no problem scavenging.
 
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