My 500hp project need recommendations

[chris_taylor123]

This is my 500hp dd project.. 5 speed 97 eclipse awd.

if I dont get the full 500 its fine but 450 or 475 would make me happy..

Parts List..

Transmission: Jacks Transmissions LLC — 'Stage 5.1' AWD Premium 5.1 rebuild from jacks

Clutch: SPEC Clutches & Flywheels: Auto Parts, Domestic, Import, Truck, Racing, Drifting :: Results By Car One of the 3+ stages or 4 or 5.. not sure where to go quite yet

Turbo: Forced Performance Turbochargers: DSM FP3065 Ball Bearing Turbocharger Fp3065

Injectors: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Precision 780cc Ball-Style Injectors : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 Turbo (Injectors 780cc will go bigger if thats your recommendation I though I would have to anyway.. I was just taking advice from someone else..)

Valves: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Brian Crower not sure which valves to go with yet..

Rods + Pistons: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Eagle Rods + Wiseco Piston Combo: Mitsubishi Eclipse .40 over

Dual valve springs: Dual Valve Spring Set - DSM 4G63

Bearings: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Clevite 77 Tri-Metal Main Bearing Set: Mitsubishi Eclipse 6-Bolt

Fuel pump:Forced Performance Turbochargers: Forced Performance 255lph Fuel Pump (Will this work?)

Doing a 6 bolt swap into the car.. with a 2g head. If i need to upgrade something to reach my goal please relay me some info

Tein coilovers

Still looking into:

Full 3" exhaust
Arp head Studs
Stainless Steel clutch lines
New Brake Lines
Drilled and slotted brakes
Ported exhaust manifold
Wastegate
Cams
Nice Loud blow off valve
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Have eprom ordering chip for it soon

Planned on using stock 2g mas but will use something else if needed.

Wanting to know if stock transfer case will work? or need rebuilt.. as well as rear differential.. etc.. anything needed done to make 500 I need to know about.


I was told not to use and aftermarket intake manifold because its not worth the money.. just what I was told..

If theres anything you guys recommend adding or changing??? Any help is much appreciated thanks for your time!!!

 

[monster4g63tawd]

if your trying to use pump gas you should do the e85 conversion i think its 105 or 110 octane and if your trying to run venting to atmosphere ( u said loud bov) you have 2 get some shit so that your car dont read the wasted air as being used. i think its gm maft

 

[jaday]

Monster is right about the GM MAF-T if you're wanting to vent to the atmosphere. You also need to think about intercoolers.

 

[jwahl16]

go .20 over unless .40 is necessary. Go for a 255hp pump. Also, i think you should go with bigger injectors, especially if your using link and e85.

 

[Talon tsi PR]

Dont go .40 overbore, get 1000cc injectors and get rid of 2g maf

 

[BorinquenEclips]

Do E85 conversion, that will help you get to 500hp a lot easier than 93 pump, which means you would need bigger injectors. If you do the conversion I say at least 1250cc injectors but someone correct me on that? Then ditch the chip and get DSMlink V3 to control those injectors and be able to have more than 1 tune if E85 becomes an inconvinience. How high do you plan on revving? I would probably do away with the dual valve springs unless you plan on going to 10k rpms (if you even build power all the way to redline) and use some of that money for Link V3 and just get some upgraded valves springs. Like stated .20 over is fine unless you need to go .40 over. ARP Rod bolts need to go on that list. The bearings are up to you. With Link V3 you won't need a GM Maf-T if running speed density. The turbo is fine if you want room to grow but personally I think you can get a cheaper turbo (HX40 ) and save a lot of money to use for other parts. Definetaly shop around for the Transmission rebuild I am almost sure you can get a TRE or Shep for cheaper. I know an ACT 2600 is cheaper than the Spec 3+ and can still handle the power you want, there are plenty of people that run this clutch with your same power goals no need to spend $700 on a clutch. I don't think a ported 2g manifold would help you get to your goals, I would at least look into an Evo3 ported mani, or the FP Race manifold which is not that expensive for a race manifold. Tial wastegates all the way.

The aftermarket intakes help more with top end so you lose some torque when you use them versus the stock manifold, but at 500hp Im sure your stock manifold will be restricting your airflow so an aftermarket one wouldn't be a bad idea. IMO, I would do it in a heartbeat since it takes away some torque so I would feel a little better about breaking drivetrain parts, but realize that it is still a possibility.

Can't help you with the transfer case but I have not heard of anyone rebuilding their transfer cases, most people just replace them when they break. I believe the stock 2g MAS is good but someone may correct me on that but as far as I know it should be fine.

Just trying to save you some money, even though some of the parts I recommended are cheaper they are still high quality parts that can handle what your looking for. I would recommend you do a little more research before purchasing anything because there are a lot of people with your same goal and you can kind of compare your parts list with theirs and see what you can add or delete, it might just save you more money!!

Hope this helped!

 

[chris_taylor123]

Do E85 conversion, that will help you get to 500hp a lot easier than 93 pump, which means you would need bigger injectors. If you do the conversion I say at least 1250cc injectors but someone correct me on that? Then ditch the chip and get DSMlink V3 to control those injectors and be able to have more than 1 tune if E85 becomes an inconvinience. How high do you plan on revving? I would probably do away with the dual valve springs unless you plan on going to 10k rpms (if you even build power all the way to redline) and use some of that money for Link V3 and just get some upgraded valves springs. Like stated .20 over is fine unless you need to go .40 over. ARP Rod bolts need to go on that list. The bearings are up to you. With Link V3 you won't need a GM Maf-T if running speed density. The turbo is fine if you want room to grow but personally I think you can get a cheaper turbo (HX40 ) and save a lot of money to use for other parts. Definetaly shop around for the Transmission rebuild I am almost sure you can get a TRE or Shep for cheaper. I know an ACT 2600 is cheaper than the Spec 3+ and can still handle the power you want, there are plenty of people that run this clutch with your same power goals no need to spend $700 on a clutch. I don't think a ported 2g manifold would help you get to your goals, I would at least look into an Evo3 ported mani, or the FP Race manifold which is not that expensive for a race manifold. Tial wastegates all the way.

The aftermarket intakes help more with top end so you lose some torque when you use them versus the stock manifold, but at 500hp Im sure your stock manifold will be restricting your airflow so an aftermarket one wouldn't be a bad idea. IMO, I would do it in a heartbeat since it takes away some torque so I would feel a little better about breaking drivetrain parts, but realize that it is still a possibility.

Can't help you with the transfer case but I have not heard of anyone rebuilding their transfer cases, most people just replace them when they break. I believe the stock 2g MAS is good but someone may correct me on that but as far as I know it should be fine.

Just trying to save you some money, even though some of the parts I recommended are cheaper they are still high quality parts that can handle what your looking for. I would recommend you do a little more research before purchasing anything because there are a lot of people with your same goal and you can kind of compare your parts list with theirs and see what you can add or delete, it might just save you more money!!

Hope this helped!

Major help.. I knew there had to be cheaper things I was just unsure of what could handle.. Im looking for stuff that could handle a long time. The dmslink I decided to go with and I was told that racing manifold is a better way to go.. so I will definitely do that..

also told that if I use an evo8/9 mas would be better?

Ill look into the different turbo..

.020 over will work just fine for 500hp?

I was just told hell with it at go .040 but if .020 will get me there then I shall do it.

I seen tons of people talking about the act 2600 clutch.. I was just a little unsure of its capabilities..

I just wanted to be safe with the dual valve springs.. I want things to last a while

Longevity, driveability, and fast are my goals.. I know you have to take out of one to put in the other but I want a good all around very fast car.

Any other opinions?

I was told jacks trannies are really good.. I know transmissions in these cars are the first to break.. I was just going on the safe side there as well..

As for e85 im not sure of any locations that have it around here and to be honest it would be a lot more convenient if dsms had there own gas station.. what do you think I would get up to just running 93 octane?

 

[richard33]

-get DSMlink
- my bolt block is .020 over as is plenty of other people and it holds up just fine.
- I have a act2600 sprung clutch and its holding power fine. Im FWD though.
- I have supertech dual valve springs and bc272s which is working out well.
I havent hit the dyno yet but Im sure the car is making at least mid 400's with and hx35 and e85. Hope this helps some.

 

[BorinquenEclips]

Major help.. I knew there had to be cheaper things I was just unsure of what could handle.. Im looking for stuff that could handle a long time. The dmslink I decided to go with and I was told that racing manifold is a better way to go.. so I will definitely do that..

also told that if I use an evo8/9 mas would be better?

Ill look into the different turbo..

.020 over will work just fine for 500hp?

I was just told hell with it at go .040 but if .020 will get me there then I shall do it.

I seen tons of people talking about the act 2600 clutch.. I was just a little unsure of its capabilities..

I just wanted to be safe with the dual valve springs.. I want things to last a while

Longevity, driveability, and fast are my goals.. I know you have to take out of one to put in the other but I want a good all around very fast car.

Any other opinions?

I was told jacks trannies are really good.. I know transmissions in these cars are the first to break.. I was just going on the safe side there as well..

As for e85 im not sure of any locations that have it around here and to be honest it would be a lot more convenient if dsms had there own gas station.. what do you think I would get up to just running 93 octane?

Yes an Evo 8/9 MAS will definitly be better, a lot easier to work with. .20 overbore is plenty for you 500hp build, unless your cylinder walls are so bad that you need to go .40 over, but I doubt it.

Longevity, Drivebility, and fast...You can get all three of those. Fast, Cheap, Reliable...thats where you have to pick 2 out of 3. Of course you seem like the type of person that already knows its not going to be cheap to get longevity, drivebility, and fast. Jack trannys are great I have nothing against them, just trying to free up some cash from your list but Jacks trannies are high quality.

As far as the springs, again if you don't plan on revving to 10k rpms I don't see the point in Dual springs. I would just get a set of Manley Springs and retainers, port the head to match the 1g port holes, maybe a 3 angle valve job and be done with the head. If people can see 400awhp on a completly factory motor, then you shouldn't really have to do much with the head unless, again, you want to rev really really high (which I dont recommend for a daily driver especially if your worried about your transmission).

With E85 you can run a more agressive tune SAFER. With 93 octane you cannot go as agressive. Lets say you ran 20psi and you were using 93 pump with 2* of timing before you started to see knock and you were getting 400hp (just making up numbers for the sake of demonstration!!!), with E85 you could probably run the same 20psi but run 18* of timing and get 450hp before you see knock. It just makes tuning easier. I have heard of people getting up too 90whp just by switching to E85 and running a more aggresive tune. Thats why I recommended it, but if it is an inconvinience then don't do it. The last thing you want to do is run low on gas and not be able to find a station with E85 since this is your DD.

 

[nickblackgsx]

Buy a 3" gm MAF and a dsmlink MAF cable, to use with dsmlink. Definatley look into running e85. Switch to speed density also. Anyways, I second all of what is said, they have all given good advice.

 

[dmc]

The 3065 is a great turbo, its what I use still, but concider maybe a 35r. It will make 500hp a little easier and you will have room to grow down the road.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Why spend all that money on the tranny when you could spend half as much and get a twin disc??

 

[chris_taylor123]

@dmc "The 3065 is a great turbo, its what I use still, but concider maybe a 35r. It will make 500hp a little easier and you will have room to grow down the road."

Send me a link to that turbo.. please.. and what are the pros and cons to the 3 turbos mentioned so far?
Dont worry about price.. I want to now the pros and cons.. Spool times etc..
-35r
-hx40
-fp3065

Maybe you guys can compare them since you have used them.. so I have a little bit of ground when deciding.

The e85 is a hard decision im moving up to st louis soon so I might be able to find e85 somewhere up there.. if so I will definitely do it if there is a few stations I can rely on. I read somewhere that e85 sale is going down so a lot of places shut down.. but idk..

@ VETTE_50_TH "Why spend all that money on the tranny when you could spend half as much and get a twin disc??"

Explain more please.. a decent tranny is still needed to handle torque.. what are you saying exactly?

I will check the cylinders when I get the engine.. hard telling what they guy did to it.. all he said is he spun a rod bearing.. so I guess we'll see on the .02 or .04

As for Longevity driveability and cheap.. I like cheap yes.. but if I pay a good amount and it lasts me a while ill be happy Im not about to be cheap on my dream car..

As for the 3 angle valve job I think ive seen this done before but a little more info on that would be helpful. Pictures.. links.. the whole process etc..

Not going to rev very high and do you have some links for the manley springs retainers? cost.. etc.. Thanks.

All of your guys info is very very helpful.. its exactly what im looking for.. Thank you so much

Master Power GT35R DSM TSI EVO WRX: eBay Motors (item 260247163617 end time Oct-20-10 06:52:55 PDT)

That guy says he has gt35r for $600 but that seems cheap.. I could be wrong though down in the description it seems convincing..

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

What im saying is that you could get a cheaper tranny that will handle the power and save a lot of money which you could put towards a twin disc. I would get a 2.1 maybe a 3.1 if that. 3500 on a tranny is ridiculous unless its a dogbox.

 

[BorinquenEclips]

DSM Transmissions - AWD

The stage 4 Shep tranny is STILL cheaper than that Jacks tranny and can handle far more power than you will be making and can handle high revs. Thats what we mean by looking into different transmissions because you can save literally thousands by finding a cheaper tranny that can handle big numbers. A stage 2 Shep tranny would be fine in my opinion and its almost half the price of the Jacks tranny.

As far as turbo goes I know the 3065 is a great turbo, FP makes miracles with their turbos. But again same situation with the tranny, you can find a turbo thats cheaper that can do the same. I like the Holset turbos and I would go with an HX40 with the BEP bolt-on housing. That set-up would definitely cost less than a 3065 set-up and its cheaper to rebuild since its a journal bearing versus the 3065 which is ball-bearing and would cost a lot more to rebuild. A 35r seem to a little to big but thats just my opinion. If you want more info on the HX40 just type in Holset in the search and an infinite amount of post about the turbos will come up. Read till your eyes fall out.

These were the springs I was talking about. They should be good to 8k maybe even 8.5k rpms which should be plenty:
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Manley Performance Valve Spring and Retainer Kit: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 DSM

 

[noV8undrDIShood]

i actually have a set of these (manley springs and ti retainers) laying around that i bought this past summer and never used.. (ended up going with a set of kigglies) pm me if your interested!

 

[chris_taylor123]

Are the turbos the same as far as spooling up fast or do some offer higher end power.. or...

and thank you it looks like the shep trans would cost a lot less and pretty much the same or better stuff.. thank you..

Im unaware of the differences of a journal bearing versus a ball bearing? does one last longer then the other or spool up faster.. or is it about the same just cheaper?

Still unsure of the injectors.. Jeff said go with 980 and I would barely make it with stock fuel pressure.. I was told going to big of injectors would be harder to tune by someone else?... not sure if thats true..

Anyone have any info on the 3-angle valve job?

Thanks for the links

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

IF you are going to spend that much on a fp3065. Get a HTA 35r from FP. Few bills more but more power and spools quicker. BB is the way to go until it fails then you have to buy a 1000 dollar center section.

 

[chris_taylor123]

IF you are going to spend that much on a fp3065. Get a HTA 35r from FP. Few bills more but more power and spools quicker. BB is the way to go until it fails then you have to buy a 1000 dollar center section.

ball bearing are supposed to last the longest.. hence the price.. I think im still sticking with a forced performance turbo.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

They can last, just depends on how you maintain it. The forced performance turbos are amazing. I def recommend.

 

[BorinquenEclips]

Ball-bearings definitly spool faster and last longer than a journal bearing turbo and if I had the cash I would love to get a FP3065, it was my turbo of choice ever since I bought my eclipse. These turbos absolutely scream when you boost and build boost a little fast than Journal bearing ones (depending on the size). But then I found out it cost 1000 to rebuild it and requires a little more maintenance to keep those ball-bearings spinning freely as far as oil goes. For my car that is also going to be my daily driver I would be using the turbo more often then others and 1000 is to much to rebuild. The journal bearings cost about $150 depending where you take it and what parts it needs, but that is dam cheaper than rebuilding a ball-bearing. That is probably the only downside to owning a ball-bearing, the prices to buy it and to maintain it are far more expensive than a journal bearing (between the FP's and the Holsets). If you have the money, I would definitly recommend a turbo from FP.

As far as 3 angle valve jobs, your head already comes with it from the factory. All your doing is getting the valves redone, thats it. Read this:
Should I Street This? – Episode 1 – 3 Angle Valve Jobs | 1320Network

And again if you search you will almost always find your answer.

 

[Yamahaulin]

Stay away from Master Power. They don't use garret parts.

 

[chris_taylor123]

Stay away from Master Power. They don't use garret parts.

Cool cool cool.. will post something soon in the right section and let you guys know of the progress soon.. Thanks for all the info..

 

[lilrob2069]

Cool cool cool.. will post something soon in the right section and let you guys know of the progress soon.. Thanks for all the info..

I don't know the whole logistics of the 3 angle valve grind but you could get your self a set of custom Graveyard Motorsports Racing valves. They come with the 3 angle valve grind and They can also get you Manley Springs Etc. Check out there site. DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts! They are always willing to help dsmer's out

 

[JackM]

DSM Transmissions - AWD

The stage 4 Shep tranny is STILL cheaper than that Jacks tranny and can handle far more power than you will be making and can handle high revs. Thats what we mean by looking into different transmissions because you can save literally thousands by finding a cheaper tranny that can handle big numbers. A stage 2 Shep tranny would be fine in my opinion and its almost half the price of the Jacks tranny.

Sorry, but that's total misinformation Do you read?

Here are our 2.1 builds.

Jacks Transmissions LLC — Value Rebuilds

If you 'look' at what we have to offer you will find our prices are more than reasonable.