Multiple issues - want to give up

[300hpbound]

I just recently posted a thread about having a low idle and have *somewhat* figured that out but that seems to be the least of my issues.

After I bypassed the FIAV I now have some kind of cooling issue that I don't understand. Prior to me bypassing it, my cooling system was perfect. Ran a solid 178* (180* thermostat) while driving and never once went about 186-187 at idle. After I did this bypass, the coolant cycles continuously. Below is a video of exactly what happens.

I would like to put some disclaimers here before the video. Outside ambient air temp is about 43* at the time of video, so at 40 mph I was driving, way less. My car didn't even go past 3000 rpm, and the heater was on level 1. As you can see it only takes about 25-30 seconds for it to reach all the way to 192 (and sometimes makes its way to 196) and then it goes back down just to start all over again. This is a 180* thermostat, and I have changed it 3 times in the past three days because I thought I kept getting sticky thermostat's. Again, ccooling system worked perfectly prior to the FIAV bypass. At a stop light idling it will stay around 180, it's only after I push the gas does it climb like there's no tomorrow. coolant/water ratio is about 45/55. Profile is up to date but it does have a Koyo radiator, and water pump was replaced with timing belt about 3K ago, factory pump of course. No coolant leaks at all.

Another issue I've been having is my wheels shaking. I've balanced my tires 3 times in 4 months because I thought the weights were being thrown off. I get a shake at about 45 mph right now and only gets worse all the way up to 75. I haven't gone further because it's dangerous enough the way the wheels shake. I can promise you that the lug nuts are tight as well. What the heck causes a shake when the tires are balanced?

Any help at all is greatly appreciated as this is my daily driver and, although it's not overheating, i'm still nervous driving the thing now. Let me know if you need any other information.

Video below. it's sideways for some odd reason but it's got what I need. Sorry it's a bit shaky, I was driving afterall so kind of had to pay attention to that road thing.

Stupid Car - YouTube

 

[johnovision27]

I'm not too familiar with the FIAV bypass so I can't really help you there. However, some sound advice with these cars, if you change something and it starts going all wonky on you, change it back! Why did you do the bypass anyway? 196 is still a perfectly acceptable temperature so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Its when you start getting >230 area that you should start to consider letting it sit and cool down.
Keep in mind how the cooling system in our cars work. The higher the rpm, the faster the pump pumps. So, when you're at idle, you're still pumping coolant through the block, but not as fast so it'll heat up. When you accelerate, it pumps all that heated fluid out and past the temp probe. Thats where you're getting that "rapid" increase from.
Don't worry, it's normal

For your wheels shaking, are they shaking constantly or under acceleration?? It could be your camber/toe is off, you have bald spots on your tires, your hubs are going, etc. If it's under acceleration check to make sure the boots on your CV axels aren't ripped and there is grease in the joints. If not, you'll need to replace the CV axle/s

Hope that helps for now.
Keep us updated

 

[talon1990TSi]

Did you make sure you got all the air out of the system? Also bad tire(s) could give you a shake around that mph.

 

[ghoti]

For the wheel shaking, also check your tie rod ends and ball joints to make sure they are solid and don't need replacing.

 

[300hpbound]

I'm not too familiar with the FIAV bypass so I can't really help you there. However, some sound advice with these cars, if you change something and it starts going all wonky on you, change it back! Why did you do the bypass anyway? 196 is still a perfectly acceptable temperature so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Its when you start getting >230 area that you should start to consider letting it sit and cool down.
Keep in mind how the cooling system in our cars work. The higher the rpm, the faster the pump pumps. So, when you're at idle, you're still pumping coolant through the block, but not as fast so it'll heat up. When you accelerate, it pumps all that heated fluid out and past the temp probe. Thats where you're getting that "rapid" increase from.
Don't worry, it's normal

For your wheels shaking, are they shaking constantly or under acceleration?? It could be your camber/toe is off, you have bald spots on your tires, your hubs are going, etc. If it's under acceleration check to make sure the boots on your CV axels aren't ripped and there is grease in the joints. If not, you'll need to replace the CV axle/s

Hope that helps for now.
Keep us updated

I appreciate all the info boss. I did the bypass because of the idle surge that I was dealing with. First start in the morning would wrap the engine up all the way to 3000 rpm because the FIAV was leaking something fierce. I start it up now and it idles wonderfully (although still trying to adjust it a bit here and there.)

I do understand how the cooling system works in our cars but before I did any work to it, just last week, I could drive and it would stay solid at 178-180. It didn't move at all until I would idle for a few minutes then it would creep up, thermostat would open, and no big deal. it's never been this warm before.

You said that you weren't too familiar with the bypass, it's a simple little procedure that blocks off the coolant passages in the bottom half of the throttle body. The way I went about it, I don't know what the procedure is as to re-adjusting the valve so I can't necessarily put it back. I wouldn't think it would do this much nonsense. If you want to take a look at what's involved it's in the tech articles under engine, titled something like "FIAV bypass- free" or something of the sorts.

As for the shaking, to the others that responded too, I am planning on getting new control arms with ball joints and replacing the wheel bearings as well, although I don't believe they are too bad. The right front control arm is ever so slightly bent and gives a -.03 caster rating, not enough to cause any issues but replacing anyway. The CV's are in great shape, no tears, and the tie rod ends are also in good shape, no leaks. No bald spots on tires, although some abnormal tire wear (and i've known this but was waiting on getting replacement suspension parts so I didn't have to take it apart more than once) due to the toe being slightly out but I didn't think that would cause shaking.

i appreciate all the help fellas

Did you make sure you got all the air out of the system? Also bad tire(s) could give you a shake around that mph.

I bled the system a few times just to make sure