The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

motor problems....need help bad...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JDP AWD 1g

15+ Year Contributor
91
0
Feb 3, 2006
streamwood, Illinois
ok the situation has gotten unbearable. i just recently dropped $2000 on a new turbo setup and a bunch of controllers and electronics. i took on this upgrade because i blew my stock 14b turbo. i have everything installed and car is running. but now after my stock turbo blew, i get a loud hum/whine coming from the timing side of the motor. the noise level of the hum/whine gets louder with the greater rpms. i noticed i have a little leak now from the water pump, im guessing the water pump got hit during turbo installation and the oring is now leaking. before the turbo blew i bought and put on a brand new alternator acc belt and timing belt. any ideas guys?

i took my car for a beat run last night, i was tryin to listen to the whine/hum and now when i got back i parked my car, and i was letting it turbo time, now it sounds like there is marbles in my valve cover. any ideas?

another problem i am having is my really low oil pressure. i run 20w50 before i blew my turbo the stock oil psi gauge would read 3/4 + pressure, now after new turbo and oil change, still running 20w50 i only get MAYBE 1/2 pressure. and also every once in a while when i come to a stop my dummy light flashes. i checked the wires on my oil sending unit and the wires appear to be fine, along with the sending unit itself. any ideas?
 
JDP AWD 1g said:
ok the situation has gotten unbearable. i just recently dropped $2000 on a new turbo setup and a bunch of controllers and electronics. i took on this upgrade because i blew my stock 14b turbo. i have everything installed and car is running. but now after my stock turbo blew, i get a loud hum/whine coming from the timing side of the motor. the noise level of the hum/whine gets louder with the greater rpms. i noticed i have a little leak now from the water pump, im guessing the water pump got hit during turbo installation and the oring is now leaking. before the turbo blew i bought and put on a brand new alternator acc belt and timing belt. any ideas guys?

i took my car for a beat run last night, i was tryin to listen to the whine/hum and now when i got back i parked my car, and i was letting it turbo time, now it sounds like there is marbles in my valve cover. any ideas?

another problem i am having is my really low oil pressure. i run 20w50 before i blew my turbo the stock oil psi gauge would read 3/4 + pressure, now after new turbo and oil change, still running 20w50 i only get MAYBE 1/2 pressure. and also every once in a while when i come to a stop my dummy light flashes. i checked the wires on my oil sending unit and the wires appear to be fine, along with the sending unit itself. any ideas?

I would pull off the valve cover and check to make sure every thing is ok. Second, check the amount of oil thats in the motor. Some times during stopping or hard cornering, you will get the oil light to come on...then go off. Its normally due to being low on oil. As far as the whinning goes, I would replace the water pump, gasket, pulleys, timing belt, balance shaft belt, and the hydrolic tensioner. Happy wrenching!

J.P.
:thumb:
 
well im going to pull off the valve cover sometime this weekend and take a look. ive got 2 dsms coming in my shop tonight i gotta swap motors one, and we are junkin one shell. ive got a little wrenching to do.

as for the whine, would the oil pump make a sound if it was going bad?
 
JDP AWD 1g said:
i get a loud hum/whine coming from the timing side of the motor. the noise level of the hum/whine gets louder with the greater rpms. i noticed i have a little leak now from the water pump, im guessing the water pump got hit during turbo installation and the oring is now leaking. before the turbo blew i bought and put on a brand new alternator acc belt and timing belt. any ideas guys?

Water pump:
Where is the water pump leaking at? You should get that fixed before driving.

Whine/hum:
Think of the things you have had to remove in order to replace;
I suggest you look for an exhaust leak.
Check the tensions of the belts, positions, and proper installation.
Is it scraping any place? Take the upper timing cover off and look at the condition of the belt.



JDP AWD 1g said:
20w50 i only get MAYBE 1/2 pressure.

Well you need to get ride of that 20w-50 crap, what are you thinking? Our engines are not USDM BB V8's, you can't run that heavy of weight oil. The viscosity of the oil is to thick to properly fit into the tight clearances of our bearings, leading to a false since of higher oil pressure, but far less lubrication.
 
madmader said:
Whine/hum:
Think of the things you have had to remove in order to replace;
I suggest you look for an exhaust leak.
Check the tensions of the belts, positions, and proper installation.
Is it scraping any place? Take the upper timing cover off and look at the condition of the belt.

i didnt remove or replace anything recently. ive been getting the noise since i blew my stock turbo. we didnt have to do anything with the timing side of the motor to remove the turbo....i just started my car, after it had been sitting all day, to hear the marble noise with one of my buddies, it didnt make the noise but the whine or hum is louder, and it distinctly seems to be coming from the front of the block. located near the power steering pump, alternator, water pump etc. i think im gonna start by replacing the water pump and go from there...

anyone know where to get a water pump cheap ? :mad:

and for the 20w50 i was urged by mechanic to use that, because of the 197,000 miles "supposedly" on my block....
 
if you are replacing the water pump then you should replace the timing belt,b/s belt because you will have it apart anyway.timing belt=$40.00-b/s belt=$20.00-water pump=$38.00.whine/hum sounds like water pump bearings which could be causing the leak.did the leak and whine happen at the sametime?
 
yes the leak and the whine started when i blew my turbo....... :mad:

where can i get those prices on those parts?
 
I dont know if blowing the turbo would have any effect on the water pump but find out for sure where the leak is coming from before spending money.I just went to napa auto parts but I have been dealing with this guy for 15 years.
 
i just found out last night a few of my buddies got lifetime warranties on a few things......so the water pump situation is going to turn out.....my buddy works at murrays auto and is gonna get me a deal on belts etc....i think im just gonna redo the whole timing side...better off safe then sorry
 
alright well tonight was not a good night for me. i took apart some stuff on my car and diagnosed a few more of my problems..

marbles: i took off the valve cover to look for anything noticeably broken. nothing found. no springs broken or retainers. so im gonna guess and say its my lifters / rockers....

whine / hum: i loosened my alternator / water pump belt and the noise went away for a few minutes, i boosted my car and now the noise is back, although its not quite as bad or loud. and it doesnt start till higher up in the rpm's....its gotta be that belt or pulley.

Leaking oil: my mechanic informed me im leaking oil from the timing side of my motor...he thinks one of my seals/gaskets are blown. im wondering what all seals / gaskets are over there that could be causing this??

so far i gathered a parts list for everything im lookin to replace. i would appreciate it if someone could look around and see if they could find a better deal for me, the price is kinda costly. below is a list of the parts, and the cheapest price i could find.


Balance shaft removal kit (not bolt on, requires internal modification???) - $45
water pump w/gasket - $65
alt/wp belt - $14
ps belt - $9
crank shaft pulley / harmonic balancer - $125
timing belt hydralic auto tensioner - $85
timing belt kit (no balance shafts: timing belt, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley) - $80
front crank shaft seal - $12
rear crank shaft seal - $24
cam shaft seals - $8 ea. (2) required
oil pump - ???

if someone could scout some of these out for me, see if i can get a better price, i would very much appreciate it...
 
my friends car does this on his NA, it is his power steering pump being loose and the belts not tigh enough. Always helps it to tighten it down and then it goes away for like 2-3 months and then slowly comes back.
 
well technically i dont have power steering. the pulley is there but there is no pump / resevoir....or belt
 
JDP AWD 1g said:
alright well tonight was not a good night for me. i took apart some stuff on my car and diagnosed a few more of my problems..

marbles: i took off the valve cover to look for anything noticeably broken. nothing found. no springs broken or retainers. so im gonna guess and say its my lifters / rockers....

whine / hum: i loosened my alternator / water pump belt and the noise went away for a few minutes, i boosted my car and now the noise is back, although its not quite as bad or loud. and it doesnt start till higher up in the rpm's....its gotta be that belt or pulley.

Leaking oil: my mechanic informed me im leaking oil from the timing side of my motor...he thinks one of my seals/gaskets are blown. im wondering what all seals / gaskets are over there that could be causing this??

so far i gathered a parts list for everything im lookin to replace. i would appreciate it if someone could look around and see if they could find a better deal for me, the price is kinda costly. below is a list of the parts, and the cheapest price i could find.


Balance shaft removal kit (not bolt on, requires internal modification???) - $45
water pump w/gasket - $65
alt/wp belt - $14
ps belt - $9
crank shaft pulley / harmonic balancer - $125
timing belt hydralic auto tensioner - $85
timing belt kit (no balance shafts: timing belt, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley) - $80
front crank shaft seal - $12
rear crank shaft seal - $24
cam shaft seals - $8 ea. (2) required
oil pump - ???

if someone could scout some of these out for me, see if i can get a better price, i would very much appreciate it...


Per many, many, many forums on this site, make sure you get the Mitsubishi Timing belt from the dealership. Too many people have said that the timing belt that they bought at the corner parts store didn't hold up like it was supposed to. It's one of those things that if you are going to do it, do it right the first time.
 
I hope you plan on pulling the motor because you will have to have the motor out to do some of these repairs.An oil pump is $168.00 and there are two different designs so you will have to know when the car was made(before june or after)thats the way my galant was.shop the vendors on this site,that will be your best bet.
 
You should replace all belts, the hydralic tensioner and tensioner and idler puller too. Sound like one of those (to include the Water pump) bearings has took a crap on ya. I would say the water pump as these things go out fairly easy, and its typically a good idea to replace them any time you replace the timing belt. I can not comment on the BS bearings comment, as I've never experienced this. The whine could also be from a belt being to tight or rubbing against something. Check your AC belt alot of times this belt will rub against the timing cover.


The marbles sound could be what refer to as valve tap. It happens when there is not enough oil pressure in the hydrolic lifters to full extended the rockers against the camshaft. The cam lobes is supposed to be in constant contact against the rollers. Instead of pressing against the rockers, the cam lobes lift away from the rockers and when the peak starts to came around again, it slaps the rocker. This can be contributed to the heavier oil that you are using or it could be that the lifters are clogged. You can either replace them with 3g or Topline revised lifters or take out your stock ones, clean them and put them back in. The good news is that you do not need to remove the head to do this.

The most likely oil leak you got from your timing side, is the valve cover gasket and/or the front main seal.

I will post links/parts you will need to to all of this.
 
gurmanator said:
I hope you plan on pulling the motor because you will have to have the motor out to do some of these repairs

the motor doesnt have to come out for any of that....maybe the oil pump im not sure about that one.

laserspeeddemon said:
The most likely oil leak you got from your timing side, is the valve cover gasket and/or the front main seal.

its not leaking from the valve cover, its leaking further down....i just bought a brand new valve cover and gasket less then a week ago....
 
JDP AWD 1g said:
its not leaking from the valve cover, its leaking further down....i just bought a brand new valve cover and gasket less then a week ago....

Well maybe it is not in all the way? If you see oil coming from around the front of the engine (Piston #1) above the, or beside the timing cover it is probable your valve gasket.

A few areas that could leak over there:
Valve cover gasket
Cam seals
Front main seals
Lose pressure sending units
Oil pan
Oil drain plug
Filter housing

there you go.




For the marble sound,
Could it be ticking lifters from low oil do to your leak, low oil presure, or just real dirty grity oil?


Whin/hum...
Tell us some more about that.
When car is cold started? All the time, under higher RPMS?

Is it effected when you turn on your AC, turn wheel hard, then finally turn all your lights(high beams, brake lights etc..) and accessories on.
 
Here is everything you will need to do a good replacement, this should stop the ticking, the huming/whining, and the leaking of both oil and coolant (if done correctly).

Timing Belt Replacement:
--------------------------------
Timing Belt
Balance Shaft Belt
Accessory Belt (Crank, Alternator, Water Pump)
Accessory Belt (Water Pump, Power Steering Pump)
Accessory Belt (Crank, Air Conditioner Belt)
Idler Pulley
Tensioner Pulley
Balance Shaft Pulley
Hydralic Tensioner.
(Sold as a kit at Diamond Star Motorsports, see picture below)
--------------------------------
Water Pump
Water Pump Gasket
Water Pump/Water Pipe O-ring
(Sold as a kit at Diamond Star Motorsports, see picture below)
--------------------------------
Front Main Seal
(Sold Seperatly at Diamond Star Motorsports)
--------------------------------

Valve Tap Fix:
---------------------------
Valve Cover Gasket Kit
(Sold as a kit at
Diamond Star Motorsports
, see picture below)
---------------------------
(optional)
Topline Revised lifter
(Sold as a set at Extreme PSI, see picture below)
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
madmader said:
Well maybe it is not in all the way? If you see oil coming from around the front of the engine (Piston #1) above the, or beside the timing cover it is probable your valve gasket.

A few areas that could leak over there:
Valve cover gasket
Cam seals
Front main seals
Lose pressure sending units
Oil pan
Oil drain plug
Filter housing

Ah yes, two very key items I missed. You can get the cam seals from the same link, I posted for the Front Main Seal. The oil Pan is RTVed from the factory and as such you need to re-RTV it.

The Valve Cover gasket is a pain to put back in and seal properly, it you tighten to much you crack the Valve Cover, if you tighten to loosely the Gasket won't seal properly. What I did to get my Valve Cover to seal well was I put RTV in every bend of the Gasket (on both top and bottom), then hand tightened..... that did the trick.
 
madmader said:
Well maybe it is not in all the way? If you see oil coming from around the front of the engine (Piston #1) above the, or beside the timing cover it is probable your valve gasket.

A few areas that could leak over there:
Valve cover gasket
Cam seals
Front main seals
Lose pressure sending units
Oil pan
Oil drain plug
Filter housing

there you go.

For the marble sound,
Could it be ticking lifters from low oil do to your leak, low oil presure, or just real dirty grity oil?

Whin/hum...
Tell us some more about that.
When car is cold started? All the time, under higher RPMS?

Is it effected when you turn on your AC, turn wheel hard, then finally turn all your lights(high beams, brake lights etc..) and accessories on.

ok its not the valve cover, i believe its the main seal. i do have any evidence of oil deposits higher up on the block, only lower. and i dont have a timing cover so its easy to see. as for the marble sound, i dont have low oil i just checked, and i just changed it not even 30 miles ago, i havent been driving the car since these problems occured. and i just recently replaced my turbo (last weekend matter of fact)

whine/hum - it dont matter if the car is cold or warm, it happens all the time, starts at 2500 and goes full through the rpms, gets faster and louder with the higher rpms. you can only hear it when your on the throttle so i cant really tell you if its effected when i turn the wheel hard, ### im not boosting through a turn until i get some suspension on my car..no accesories or anything affect it. it stays the same no matter what. and i dont have ac on my car...
 
ya i know it kinda sucks, but i dont have money right now to rebuild the motor, and i need a dependable ride to and from work.....so i need a quick fix for these problems. although these forums been very helpful i think ive diagnosed all of my problems, and i know what its gonna take to fix them. LOL
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top