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Resolved Motor mount differences between 1G and 2G

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,640
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Has anyone looked into the difference between the motor mounts on a 1G and 2G? It seems to me the 2G mounts are more efficient/less weight. The one glaring difference is the lack of the L bracket mount on the top driver's side. How does the 2G get away without that mount? Is the front motor mount on the 2G beefier?

I'm just wondering if there's an opportunity to change out the motor mounts on a 1G with a more modern/efficient design to save weight and space without compromising strength and stiffness (I'm a road racer so I can't afford to sacrifice durability).

I know this might not be something everyone is interested in but I'm just trying to think out of the box here.
 
On a 1G you can mimic the way the 2G drivers side mount looks by removing the front two stud bracket from behind the water pipe. Then take the "L" bracket and cut it right at the mount and weld the opening shut. It still holds the motor, just without the additional two studs/bracket on the front of the engine.

Being that you are still looking for stiffness I don't know if this would be the best idea, but this mod would eliminate the two stud bracket from the block and part of the "L" bracket. Creating a less bulky set-up.

Also, on the 2G the front motor mount is on the tranny, not the block. The mounts are very different. Maybe some custom lightweight mounts are on order?
 
another log for the fire:

what about an engine damper?


like this:
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I think we've got a couple vendors on here that could do something like this... let's discuss that separately though. If we can come up with some ideas for the motor mounts on the 1G that would save space and cut down on weight I think engine dampers would be right around the corner.
 
I think we've got a couple vendors on here that could do something like this... let's discuss that separately though. If we can come up with some ideas for the motor mounts on the 1G that would save space and cut down on weight I think engine dampers would be right around the corner.

well, i would think if you 1g guys went to the 2g motor mount style, and with the addition of an engine damper like such, there should be no problem with excessive engine movement.
 
well, i would think if you 1g guys went to the 2g motor mount style, and with the addition of an engine damper like such, there should be no problem with excessive engine movement.
That's what I'm thinking but I'd like to see if there might be more technical input from some engineer types.

I figure we could do something with the mount on the timing belt side, but I'm wondering if that means we'd have to beef up the front mount a little bit. I'm even thinking that we could swap out the cross brace that the front motor mount bolts to with a chromoly fabbed bar to lighten/stiffen things up even more.
 
Chris---I've been running without the "L" portion for years with no problems at all. Obviously, if you are keeping P/S then you would want to keep it in place. But, as far
as durability goes, the wraparound is not needed at all.

Phil
 
Crap, I didn't think about the power steering... I'm keeping that with my fat tires. Wonder if that can be worked around. I'll take a look at it tonight.

And Phil, why do you still not have any photos of your car in the gallery or as an avatar? :)
 
I cut my L bracket off 2 years ago, when I installed the urethane mounts, kind of on a whim, and because a well respected, area shop tech mentioned that it's quite common. I also trimmed a chunk off the pump bracket casting, and welded 2 small gussets to the remaining bracket.

Hardly scientific, but I believe with the support of all three other urethane mounts it shouldn't be an issue. I concur with possibly making a tubular cross-member as that thing seems to flex quite a lot.

I have seen no ill effects yet.

FWIW, the only bit of support it gives the P/S pump is that cheesey little s-bracket. The pump is quite stable without it. Someday I'll be doing an electric pump. :sneaky:
 
Crap, I didn't think about the power steering... I'm keeping that with my fat tires. Wonder if that can be worked around. I'll take a look at it tonight.

And Phil, why do you still not have any photos of your car in the gallery or as an avatar? :)

If you are really worried about it, then you could just use the 2g ps bracket and use the 2g engine pulling bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold studs. The engine pull bracket then bolts to the ps bracket and gives you any stability that you MIGHT have lost when you cut the L bracket. FWIW, I am not sure why there are 3 bolts on a 2g mount vs the 2 in the same location on a 1g. It probably was for a little more strength, but again I doubt you will notice.
 
Time to update your profile, Chris. Didn't find anything about your mounts. ;) Have you done anything with the fronts and rears? Guessing from post #6 you haven't really touched them.
 
Time to update your profile, Chris. Didn't find anything about your mounts. ;) Have you done anything with the fronts and rears? Guessing from post #6 you haven't really touched them.
No modification done to the other mounts. I do have Prothanes though.
 
You'd better get crackin'. Even some of us DDs are jumping on board with these solid front/rear mounts. These things are going like hot cakes! I think we're going to see a dramatic rise in people (particularly the FWDers) using these solid mounts instead of worrying about the vibration. Too many people are expressing amazing results from a very cheap modification. :thumb: I think there used to be a paranoia around modifying these mounts, but the results can't be ignored.
 
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