Motoman Break-In?(Haven't Seen This Discussed)

[spadepro22]

According to the motoman break in you should drive it hard. It states the 1st 20 miles the rings should seat(correct me if I'm wrong). I see a lot of people saying to wait 1000+ to switch to synthetic or good oil. If the motor is broke in the motoman way and rings are set why can't you go ahead and switch to the good oil? If this has been discussed I must of missed it.

I'll be running brad penn oil and to me it seems this would be better for the bearings after the 1st break in oil change. I haven't done this yet, just trying to see why not do ot this way, or what it would hurt to do it this way.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Ride it like you stole it!!!!

Reason for not using synthetic oil for break-in as it's too slick.

Stick with conventional oil for the first couple oil changes, then switch.

 

[kchaazz]

I used AMSOIL Break- In oil on mine when I did the Motoman break- in. Its synthetic, but specifically designed for ring seating whilst providing extra protection for the motor, best of both worlds, in my opinion. I dropped it after 50 miles. I would have used regular ole cheap stuff, but I just didnt want that junk to ever touch my motor.

 

[Miasma]

General Rule:

Break In Hard:Fast Motor
Break In Slow:Reliable Motor

 

[spadepro22]

I can see synthetic being to slick, but what about brad penn and the other oils listed on forced performance site? Are they also in synthetic category?

General Rule:

Break In Hard:Fast Motor
Break In Slow:Reliable Motor

I understand break in, question is pertaining more to oil after initial break in.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

What's the point in spending 80$ on oil that'll be thrown out in less than.100 miles? Stick with conventional.
I just went in and bought the cheapest oil I could fine. Quaker state 16.99$ for oil and filter. Then after break in switched to synthetic. Worked just fine. everything is as clean tight and working perfectly fine 24k miles later. Motor is strong, and takes me wherever I want as fast as I want.

 

[spadepro22]

What's the point in spending 80$ on oil that'll be thrown out in less than.100 miles? Stick with conventional.
I just went in and bought the cheapest oil I could fine. Quaker state 16.99$ for oil and filter. Then after break in switched to synthetic. Worked just fine. everything is as clean tight and working perfectly fine 24k miles later. Motor is strong, and takes me wherever I want as fast as I want.

After the initial break in. If rings are set, why not change oil to the good stuff. What's the point of running the cheap stuff after the motor is broke in for 1,000+ miles before switching? Most shavings if any are going to be in the 1st change correct?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

After the initial break in. If rings are set, why not change oil to the good stuff. What's the point of running the cheap stuff after the motor is broke in for 1,000+ miles before switching? Most shavings if any are going to be in the 1st change correct?

There is none. After the rings are set you want to change your oil to remove any metal particles in the oil. It would be good to break it in change your oil with another cheap change. run it 100 miles then change to synthetic and forget about it. There is no need not to switch till 1000 miles.
Do one or two(your choice) cheap changes within the first 300 miles then switch to whatever oil preference your wanting to run and forget about it. Regular changes from then on. I was running synthetic within 300.

 

[AbsolutGS-T]

Straight from the motoman break in page: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

 

[delta448]

edit: posted at the same time.

MJ, I don't totally agree.

OP, This has been discussed many times before. The consensus has usually been to change the oil every couple hundred miles for the first 1500-2500 miles, and to not use synthetic until after at least that many miles.

You don't want to use synthetic primarily because it limits wear-in more than conventional. When the goal is to break in the engine, to a point, wear is a good thing. The rings/cylinders are not the only surfaces to be broken-in and using the motoman method does nothing to speed up bearing wear-in. Also, synthetic is more expensive and it'd be waste of money to change it every couple hundred miles looking like it did out of the bottle except with glittery metal silt added. Yes, the first change has the most, and no, it doesn't have all the glitter that will occur.

 

[spadepro22]

There is none. After the rings are set you want to change your oil to remove any metal particles in the oil. It would be good to break it in change your oil with another cheap change. run it 100 miles then change to synthetic and forget about it. There is no need not to switch till 1000 miles.
Do one or two(your choice) cheap changes within the first 300 miles then switch to whatever oil preference your wanting to run and forget about it. Regular changes from then on. I was running synthetic within 300.

That's what I was asking, why do people wait so long to switch. After searching here about break in a lot of guys wait 1000+ miles. My question was WHY. I get the 1st oil change, perhaps 2nd, but anything after that doesn't make sence to me.

Edit: posted too slow .

 

[Cdc1221]

General Rule:

Break In Hard:Fast Motor
Break In Slow:Reliable Motor

Dont fully agree with this. You want the best ring seal possible, whether its a street-driven daily, or a balls to tha wall race motor, and thats what the motoman method is for: best ringseal

 

[spadepro22]

edit: posted at the same time.

MJ, I don't totally agree.

OP, This has been discussed many times before. The consensus has usually been to change the oil every couple hundred miles for the first 1500-2500 miles, and to not use synthetic until after at least that many miles.

You don't want to use synthetic primarily because it limits wear-in more than conventional. When the goal is to break in the engine, to a point, wear is a good thing. The rings/cylinders are not the only surfaces to be broken-in and using the motoman method does nothing to speed up bearing wear-in. Also, synthetic is more expensive and it'd be waste of money to change it every couple hundred miles looking like it did out of the bottle except with glittery metal silt added. Yes, the first change has the most, and no, it doesn't have all the glitter that will occur.

Makes sence. What I researched was only about when to change the oil and different break in methods.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

edit: posted at the same time.

MJ, I don't totally agree.

OP, This has been discussed many times before. The consensus has usually been to change the oil every couple hundred miles for the first 1500-2500 miles, and to not use synthetic until after at least that many miles.

You don't want to use synthetic primarily because it limits wear-in more than conventional. When the goal is to break in the engine, to a point, wear is a good thing. The rings/cylinders are not the only surfaces to be broken-in and using the motoman method does nothing to speed up bearing wear-in. Also, synthetic is more expensive and it'd be waste of money to change it every couple hundred miles looking like it did out of the bottle except with glittery metal silt added. Yes, the first change has the most, and no, it doesn't have all the glitter that will occur.

I can concede and agree with you. I was being a little narrow minded and was simply thinking about ring seal. Should have gave more thought to it. I guess I didn't experience issues cause I beat the dog out of it before switching oil type.

 

[tkelly27]

It seems you've already spent too much time thinking about it. Run dino juice and change it frequently.

If you are concerned about it not having the extra measure of safety at high temperatures and loads that synthetic offers, run 5-10psi less boost than you plan to after breaking it in. You'll be putting less heat and stress on the parts, but it should still be more than enough to break it in. Motoman's engines aren't even boosted, and they seem to break in just fine.

I believe most modern high performance cars (ZR1 Vettes, Ferraris, etc.) are born off the assembly line with synthetic oil. It's apparently not too slippery for them, and it might even be required with the low tension rings and such.

It seems to me that the most important aspect of engine oil during break in is that it is inside the engine.