Most HP safely out of stock 7bolt

[project1g]

Ok, here is whats on the car
-ARP head studs
-Ebay dna motorsports exhaust manifold
-Rebuilt T25
-JAM balance shaft eliminator
-Thrush bearings mod
-3 inch exhaust downpipe back 3.5in muffler
-GREDDY short route front mount intercooler
-Chromoly lightweight flywheel
-Zoom stage 3 six puck clutch
-Zoom stage 3 pressure plate
Other than that everything else is stock ordered the Extreme PSI cold air intake...
Only problems with the car
-P0300 (random missfire) I think I have it fixed though with new wires hopefully those fix it.
Boost only gets 5lbs and starts like 2 stepping.. Kinda bogging down...
Last time it was the fuel presure regulator... Replaced it on the ebay 16g and it worked
Clueless this go around
What do you guys think I can get out of this car safely and efficiantely
I have a greddy profec II b or whatever boost controller
full turbo timer
Boost controller not installed yet
turbo timer is..
Doubt the turbo timer makes a difference.. But anyway let me know what you guys think I can get out of this and how...
Trying to build budget in mind so tryin' to stick with just minor/moderate bolt-ons...
Thanks

 

[92AWDHX40]

The ebay turbo worked for now, who knows when youll have problems, my buddy did. Safely do you have a way to monitor knock, a tuning device that will tell you lots about your engine and safety right there, turn up the boost, and tune for knock. Every car is different we all have differnent set ups, did you look for 7 bolt hp anywhere in the search forums? If its bogging down might want to fix that before you start doing too much. Turbo timer isnt going to help with hp.

 

[EclipseTical]

This is likely to get locked due to the nature of your question however;

You are correct that the turbo timer won't do jack as far as adding or decreasing horsepower... It's just a convenience item for when you don't want to spend the extra minute or two in the car after driving to cool down.

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? If no, then forget about that boost controller until you install the gauge.

If you're only able to build 5psi then you have some massive leaks or some other serious issue going on. Do a boost leak test stat and get those fixed.

As far as what numbers will you make... take it to a dyno and get some numbers instead of speculative bench-racing type answers you'd get here. FWIW, I've seen stock GS-t's dyno anywhere from 150-175hp depending on how beat up the individual car was. Every car is different though so there is no way to answer your question correctly without taking it to an actual dyno.

I would address my maintenance issues before worrying about what kind of #s the car is throwing up if i were you. Good luck

 

[project1g]

When I typed in the topic the search didn't pull anything that seemed close to what I was looking for.
Yes I do have aftermarket boost gauge and the only thing I have to monitor knock is the knock sensor itself... No AFC of any kind or any other tuning device.
I have a general idea about the boost ( the ebay 16g is off and back on the t25) The last time i had the problem I did the fuel pressure regulator and fixed it, however, my friend said his did the same thing and he had to adjust the BOV so I'm thinking I'll try that ... But as far as getting numbers and everything of course I'm taking in consideration of what I need to fix before I start trying for numbers. I just want to know around about the limits of a 7bolt with minor or moderate bolt ons for hp... I've heard to make 12s you should only need slightly over 300 and thats what I'm looking for seeing as how this is still gonna be a street car...
Do you guys mind throwin down your set ups?
On the way is an extreme psi turbo intake...
But yeah like I said just let me know what you guys think I canget out of it and how.
Thanks

 

[97-gst]

you'll be lucky to make over 200 whp with t25

 

[project1g]

you'll be lucky to make over 200 whp with t25

Thats odd, usually I hear good things about a T25 at 14-16 lbs... Which will bring me to my next question...
What about a T28? I'm tryin to stay similar to the T25 set up... J-pipes were killing me... But what would be a god TD05h Flange turbo to help me get to the 300?

 

[97-gst]

a 14b, injector, fpr, and a 255 pump And you could see 300. That is of couse only gonna be possible with something really good to tune with (dsmlink) and fix the boost leak

 

[project1g]

I'm an idiot you guys I completely forgot about the 255 lph... What size injectors and what is a good FPR?

 

[red_devil]

Try searching, this thread was not necessary. Try Aeromotive they are used most around here. If your going DSMlink for tuning then get large injectors but if your going SAFC then stay below 650cc. If your looking to make power don't waste time the T25 they are shite at any boost level. Just go with an Evo3 turbo they are cheap and will get to your goal with the right setup.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Seriously. Take this how you will. If I could do it all over again., I would have left my car BONE stock aside from maybe an exhaust. After the Exhaust I would have gotten DSMLink. I would have learned all I needed to know with tuning on a stock setup, while keeping up maintainance along the way. From there I would have gone to bigger injectors and fuel pump and gone to a bigger turbo. Then I would have done the BSE and head studs.

It seems like everyone, including myself, looks at end results rather than the path to get to the end results.

But I digress.

A T-28 will get you to your 300 HP number. My goal is to get as close to 400 as I can with my FP Big T-28 on pump, without nitrous. It's a great turbo since it retains the stock appearance. Some people will say go to a 16g. But in all reality, they are two VERY comparable turbos that are capable of putting down some very respectable numbers. The reason I went with the T-28 is because uses the same housing as the T-25, so it looks BONE stock, even to the trained eye. (Until you take the intake snorkel off

 

[project1g]

What kind of boost are you putting out of your T28? And I understand I will need some tuning but I'm trying to go with 650 injectors at the max so DSM Link seems to be a must... Just trying to find an EEPROM ECU is where I'm gonna start all of this off then I'll check costs for a FPR I usually stick with extremepsi so I'll probably start looking for what I need there, now with upping the injectors and the FPR should I not get a new fuel rail or is the factory one still pretty strong enough? I've been considering an AEM rail as of late

 

[red_devil]

Stock rail is good for double the hp that your after. You could get a ecuflash instead since your a 99

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...first-flashed-dsm-ecu-98-99-flashing-faq.html

Th T28 is nice since it bolts right in and looks stock but the Evo3 is around the same price with an install kit and even cheaper if you build the kit yourself. Its a far better turbo IMO and will give you some room for more power if you want it.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Red Devil is correct. You can do the ECU Flash. The reason I suggest DSMLink is the learning curve isn't as steep (please correct me if I'm wrong), and you get the HUGE benifit from the DSMLink Forums.
Also, DSMLink can handle just about any injector your throw at it. So if you go to bigger injectors, go big or go home. I went with 950's because Link can handle them, and they weren't much more expensive than the 750s I was looking at.

I currently am still in the process of breaking in my new eninge so there is not tune on it. But I plan to push it to anywhere between 21-25psi.

When I ran it on STOCK fuel system, I was pushing over 15, some times hitting 17. However, I DO NOT SUGGEST THIS. For whaever reason, my car handled this like a champ, but I imagine my injector duty cycles where through the roof, plus I was running lower compression 6 bolt pistons, and I had a full rebuild planned out. If you get this turbo before you do fuel mods, set it NO higher than 12 psi. In fact I would just run it at wastegate pressure, and keep an eye on the gauge.

 

[project1g]

What should I look at when I look into the FPR? And the T-28 is starting to sound a little better, can I use the same oil return from the T-25 and basically when you say its the same as a 16g install kit its around 600 or so? I don't really know what the stock 7bolts can handle as far as boost but I'm at the most trying to put 20 unless thats not safe..

Would the ECU flash work seeing as how its actually a 97 ECU? The wiring from the swap was originally for a 95 but I have emissions so we had to use a 97 ECU from a friends car... However I was told the 97 in it is not EEPROM

 

[mike96]

if it is the black plastic case ECU then yes, it is refreshable.

 

[project1g]

if it is the black plastic case ECU then yes, it is refreshable.

So black plastic = good
Metal = no good

 

[dsm-onster]

ECUFlash and EvoScan is a great combination for your 99 assuming it still has the plactic ecu in it. Which is likely. Only the 1997 ecu can plug in with no modifications that not flashable. So you likely have a flashable ecu in your car 1998 or 1999.

The 14b flows 34lb/min. This is PLENTY for a bit over 300whp. Swap on a used 7cm^2 turbine housing from the classifieds for cheap and you have a turbo that makes about the same power per psi of boost as any 16g up to 20-23psi. It is a GREAT turbo. They are CHEAP to get and appear stock. After you get a 14b installed, you'll have all the parts to do a 16g swap later if you want. In the meantime, you can get a 14b for $100 and run the he!! out of it and have MHI reliability with more than enough turbo for 300whp that looks stock and spools fast.

The 14b swap is the single best bang for your buck upgrade to the 2g. They are nothing in cost and yield 100hp more in airflow potential than the stock t25.

 

[project1g]

These are all great ideas. But like I said about the ECU the harness is from a 95 the car was a 99 gs but I did the GST swap and the ECU being a 95 wouldn't work with the Emissions inspection so we had to use my buddies 97 as stated above.. I'm trying to figure out if the 97 will still be able to be flashed or if I'll have to find another tuning device or maybe even another ecu to flash.. Regardless, I'm not planning on taking baby steps, I'm gonna do everything at one time so its just one busy day of achieving the 300 goal... I'm looking at an Aeromotive 515 FPR is that good enough or mabye too much? FPRs confuse me as I don't know what I'm looking for when I am considering one

 

[importracr317]

-P0300 (random missfire) ...
Boost only gets 5lbs and starts like 2 stepping.. Kinda bogging down...

These two are likely related. Perhaps someone with a more intimate understanding of DSM ECU could expand on this, but when I had a 6 bolt, I'd get the random misfire code frequently - when it would happen, I couldn't boost past 5-10 psi, and the car would break up past 3-4K rpms.

I cannot opine on why you are getting that code, but the fact your car is throwing that code is probably why you are having the "bogging down" problem, based on my experience.

 

[project1g]

What was the fix for yours if you don't mind me asking good sir?

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

With your listed set-up, and assuming your engine is in good running condition and it's tuned correctly, a stock 7-bolt will laugh at the numbers you'll be able to make and take it just fine. But you probably wont be able to make much more than 230whp. But for what it's worth, I ran the time's in my profile on a stock 7-bolt with 125k miles on straight pump gas.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

i remember WAY BACK in the day, people said dont run over 20lbs if you are on stock hg and studs.

now if you have access to other forums, guys are claiming running over 25lbs on stock hg and studs. amazing.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

i remember WAY BACK in the day, people said dont run over 20lbs if you are on stock hg and studs.

now if you have access to other forums, guys are claiming running over 25lbs on stock hg and studs. amazing.

I'm running 21psi on my 18G with o problems(knock on wood)

 

[907gs-t]

I'm only running 15psi on my FP BT-28 ported & it's hella faster than the T-25 no doubt.

 

[99gst_racer]

i remember WAY BACK in the day, people said dont run over 20lbs if you are on stock hg and studs.

now if you have access to other forums, guys are claiming running over 25lbs on stock hg and studs. amazing.

I was running 27 psi on my old 50-trim and flowing 47 lbs/min, all on the original head gasket and head bolts. The weak link turned out to be the rods. With quite a bit more boost, they all hooked and the head never lifted or pushed a drop of coolant. Right around 50 lbs/min is as far as I'd feel comfortable pushing the factory rods and head bolts.

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