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AKeclipseGSX

10+ Year Contributor
138
0
Jul 10, 2010
Chugiak, Alaska
Okay, so I got my paycheck so time for more parts!

First, I'm getting a megan racing downpipe to go with my SRS catback.

After that, I was planning on getting a hard upper intercooler pipe. But, should I skip this step and wait for the FMIC? I plan on upgrading to a 16g and upping the boost eventually, but who knows how long.

Also, after I get the downpipe, will I need to tune it?
I currently don't have any tuning programs, mainly because DSMlink is what, 500?
 
What's a good FMIC kit?

And, when will I need to tune then?

Also, I was going to buy a Greddy type S from a local DSMer, but he said I needed the hard uicp? Do I have to just wait for the FMIC then?

For a 16G type build, a VRSF or Punishment FMIC will work well without breaking the bank.

You don't need a hard UICP, you'd just need the adapter from the Greddy flange to your stock UICP.
JM Fabrication Mitsubishi 2G/Evo 7-9 BOV Adapter Greddy | eBay
 
Good or cheap fmic? ETS street kit is the nicest. I am happy with my VRSF because of the price point. The short route pipes. And The fact that even though It took a bit of work it was still a pretty easy install.

Avoid CXRacing and godspeed. You will be ####ing with the pipes for a week.

Punishment makes a good kit to. No you don't need a hard pipe to run an upgraded bov. You just need a blowoff valve pipe that goes between the hose coming off the Stock Intercooler and the pipe that goes up the elbow.

Or, you can just get an insert for the stock piece.

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=630&cat=6&bestseller=Y
http://all.dejonpowerhouse.com/edit/A-04.htm
http://www.maperformance.com/jm-fab-bov-adapter-2g-dsm-evo.html
 
Are you planning on purchasing all these things at once? You're a baller if you are, but from the way this thread is going it sounds like your just starting out. Buy the exhaust, intake, and bov. If i was you i'd hold off on the fmic if your planning on upgrading the turbo. Good to do that at once along with the bov since you can buy a kit to match all that together with the proper piping and flanges.
 
Good or cheap fmic? ETS street kit is the nicest. I am happy with my VRSF because of the price point. The short route pipes. And The fact that even though It took a bit of work it was still a pretty easy install.

Avoid CXRacing and godspeed. You will be ####ing with the pipes for a week.

Punishment makes a good kit to.

The Punishment kit is the same as the CXracing kit, and it too is a pain in the ass, look at the recent and older threads regarding fitment issues. VRSF is your best choice for $400 or so, ETS is an awesome kit as well, that's what my next core is going to be.
 
STM | STREET TUNED MOTORSPORTS | DSM | EVO | SUBARU | PERFORMANCE & DYNO TUNING makes a good fuepump rewire kit with everything you need for 35 bucks. I bought one and installed it with no issues.

It is basically required to get the best out your fuel pump.

ETS Kit is overpriced imo.

1150 CFM VRSF Kit http://vr-speed.com/store/vrsf-fmic-front-mount-intercooler-9599-eclipse-talon-turbo-p-348.html
980 CFM Punishment. It seems cx racing IS indeed selling the same kit now. The last CX-Racing was just a universal fit set of pipes, and a bracket for the 2g eclipse.

Punishment kit is the same price as the VRSF Kit once you add the j-pipe. The punishment kit flows less, but you get a free 15$ blow off valve.
 
Well I searched on the punishment racing and everyone said it was a pretty decent kit? Anything for 400 or under I'm good, as long as it's good and fits.

And so I need to buy the wahlbro fuel pump AND the wire kit?

It is basically required to get the best out your fuel pump.
Answered before I even asked, thanks!

Alright so this pay check is probably the Fuel pump, wire kit, BOV, boost controller, and boost gauge. Hopefully that fits in 550ish.
 
Shop around. STM Isn't the only that sells the rewire kits. You might even be able to pick the materials to do it at your local auto parts store.

No problem feel free to hit that ole thumbs up button :D.

Sounds like you've got it all in line man. feel free to pm if you have any specific questions. I am running basically all the stuff your looking into getting allready but I've been around the block with these motors once or twice :D

Oh and I would suggest getting ARP headbolts and installing them before a new turbo. You should be able to do it fine without removing the head if you do them 1 by 1.
 
i dont know what kind of fmic it is universal though most of it is in the bubble wrap still . ill take pix and show u later. but the downpipe is jvt performance. and yes i would ship to alaska.
 
You can view most user's mod's lists by checking profile. Click name/car on their post.

Bolt-on Modifications:
K&N Filter| Forced Performance Intake | VRSF FMIC | HKS SSQV | MHI 16g | 1g Throttle Body | Evo 3 Turbo Manifold Ported | Evo 3 O2 Ported | Tanabe Racing Medallion Catback | 1g Throttle Body | Ported 2g Intake Manifold

Engine Management:
AEM Wideband | AEM Truboost | Autometer H20 Temp.

Engine Internals:
Felpro Composite HG | ARP Head Studs | Delta 272

Drivetrain Modifications:
B&M Short Throw | Exedy Street Disk | Penzoil Syncromesh | 17" Kyowa s7 | 245/50/ZR17" Riken Raptor All Season

Suspension Modifications:
Power Slot Discs | Hawk HPS Pads

I still need to get my fuel system upgraded before I start working on a tune. I honestly have no idea what kind of power I am making. I can keep up a Stock 3000 GT VR-4. From a dig its not even funny but he usually catches me before I hit full spool.

Stuff I still need to install :
255 Wally
Re-Wire
880 Injectors
Link V3 Lite

Stuff I gotta buy first :
AFPR, Ecu Socketing.

I am fairly certain I will be able to hit my goal of 350 whp on pump gas. After that I really am going to have find an awd swap or concentrate on doing other stuff. Body work/paint/etc
 
I don't have any thing to tune yet. I am still on stock fuel and stock wastegate pressure until I get the rest.

You really need to have all the supporting mods before you start playing with boost and etc.

You can get away with a few psi on a 16g. Or a lot quite a few on the t-25. But I would rather play it safe with the dsm. My Daily ain't all that slow. Though from a 30 roll the DSM would stomp it. From a dig its actually quicker, no spool.

http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/cgi-local/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=IS125-0850
You can get 850s for withing 10$ of the 650s. Why not add a bit of room to grow?

These are the ones I got because they can pass for stock almost. And use stock parts. (The Seals and O-Rings are all the same.) They were only 1$ more. And that was an extra 30cc to play with. And well, Jay Racing hooked me up with a free recirc fitting when I bought my HKS SSQV from them along with an adapter plate. So I like them. They also sent me a calendar FREE in January.

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=74

Most of the injectors you find in the lower size range 550-950 are going to be around 280-350$ New. If you can get some Evo 560 CC injectors CHEAP sure why not? But if your going to upgrade again later why bother? Go with the biggest injector you think you might ever need, and know your tuning device will support.

I think you are limited to like 750 on a safc. But if your going DSM Link, or Evoscan, Ceddymods etc you can run pretty much any injector as long as you have the proper dwell, and dead times.
 
And you're still running good? My build will look pretty close to yours I'm guessing. How do you do against wrx's?

I don't know any Subbie owners. They are not very popular here. I don't even know of a shop that will work on a flat4 without going way out of town.

Yeah Like I said I am running wastegate pressure (12 psi) on my turbo. Most people will slap on a 16g and start cranking up the boost before they have fuel mods. You will hit fuel cut really quick that way.

Basic bolt-ons will not cause you to hit fuel cut unless something is wrong with your fueling system. The stock ecu likes to run rich anyways. I haven't noticed any lean spots in my power curve either.

I am still waiting on another good chunk of down time that I can get the car up in the air and do my fuel system. Planning full tank to rail replacement. I will have to wait until we are closed for a holiday or I can line up 3 days in a row off somehow that aren't Wednesday, or Friday/Saturday.Some guys want to install new parts as soon as they get em. I'd rather just wait until I get everything for a particular system and do it at once. Like I did the turbo rebuild/o2 housing/downpipe/manifold/ ss oil lines all once. Even though I had a custom fab downpipe when I first bought the car.
 
Get a tuner and your fuel system set up first. That way you can max your current set up and use your 16g when you step up to it. Also learning to tune it yourself on a smaller set up is much easier and safer.
 
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