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More PTT Clutch questions

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4gfun

Supporting VIP
2,009
56
Dec 10, 2007
Ask Me, Virginia
1) Can the PTT Flywheel be resurfaced? I shipped the flywheel to PTT and they didn't say anything about the flywheel being bad but they didn't mention resurfacing it either. It has hot spots all over it.

2) Does it require their clutch alignment tool, or can I use any one?

Thanks
 
I don't have experience with the ptt flywheel but some companies just replace the friction surface and don't do any machining. Possible this is the case.

As for the alignment tool if it is just a single disk clutch you should be able to use any dsm alignment tool. As for a multi disk clutch, once again I have no experience.
 
Well thanks for trying!

I don't have experience with the ptt flywheel but some companies just replace the friction surface and don't do any machining. Possible this is the case.

As for the alignment tool if it is just a single disk clutch you should be able to use any dsm alignment tool. As for a multi disk clutch, once again I have no experience.
 
1) Can the PTT Flywheel be resurfaced? I shipped the flywheel to PTT and they didn't say anything about the flywheel being bad but they didn't mention resurfacing it either. It has hot spots all over it.

2) Does it require their clutch alignment tool, or can I use any one?

Thanks

The PTT flywheel can be machined and resurfaced. Essentially the step height service limits are between 0.110"-0.100" step. Of course you would want it flat; this is the overall thickness that it can be machined between as its service limits.

Take a metal straight-edge and check for flatness. Though it has hot-spots, is there any cracking, surface damage, uneven wear patterns or warpage? This is crucial to proper disk friction engagement and proper wear patterns to prevent premature failure.

As well, were your frictions, floater plate, pressure plate and clutch cover serviced? The PTT frictions are a standard thickness of 0.200" thick new, and have a servicable limit of 0.185" and will start slipping around 0.180" thick.

The maximum warpage limits for the pressure plate and floater plate is 0.006" warpage. The flywheel should be within 0.003" warpage.

If you are seeing uneven wear patterns on the disk frictions, then check the input shaft for runout from being bent, or check the crank for endplay or runout.


As for the clutch alignment tool, any regular clutch alignment tool will work, just use a few layers of electrical tape on the dowel end of it to take up the slack in the alignment pin on the flywheel. After installing the clutch and at the beginning sequence of hand-tightening the clutch cover fasteners down (before having them all the way tightened), check for the disks to be centered in the clutch cover (just look at the hubs to make sure they are centered in the clutch cover fingers). Tighten the clutch cover fasteners down in a star-pattern in several steps to evenly bed the surfaces. Torque the clutch cover fasteners down to 22-24 ft/lbs with a torque wrench.

Any other questions?
 
Wow, thanks for all of this info. Here is the situation:

The clutch, pressure plate and flywheel are sitting at PTT right now because the hubs completely wore out on both clutch disks and left me stranded in the middle of the road with no warning whatsoever.

I can't run all of these tests because I shipped it already, but the information will no doubt be useful at a later date if I get that far or for someone else.

I didn't really analyze the flywheel before I sent it off. To be honest, I am very novice at this.

As far as the other components go, the same applies. I didn't notice any slipping at all before the hubs wore completely out.

On a side note, the discs were organic and they sure worked fine for my setup.

The folks at PTT say that my Pressure plate is warped along with the discs leaving me with a $550 bill. I was really hoping that it would just need discs but I guess I was wrong.

Thanks for the clutch alignment tool.

The PTT flywheel can be machined and resurfaced. Essentially the step height service limits are between 0.110"-0.100" step. Of course you would want it flat; this is the overall thickness that it can be machined between as its service limits.

Take a metal straight-edge and check for flatness. Though it has hot-spots, is there any cracking, surface damage, uneven wear patterns or warpage? This is crucial to proper disk friction engagement and proper wear patterns to prevent premature failure.

As well, were your frictions, floater plate, pressure plate and clutch cover serviced? The PTT frictions are a standard thickness of 0.200" thick new, and have a servicable limit of 0.185" and will start slipping around 0.180" thick.

The maximum warpage limits for the pressure plate and floater plate is 0.006" warpage. The flywheel should be within 0.003" warpage.

If you are seeing uneven wear patterns on the disk frictions, then check the input shaft for runout from being bent, or check the crank for endplay or runout.

As for the rest, I will take your suggestions on reinstallation.

No other questions so far.


As for the clutch alignment tool, any regular clutch alignment tool will work, just use a few layers of electrical tape on the dowel end of it to take up the slack in the alignment pin on the flywheel. After installing the clutch and at the beginning sequence of hand-tightening the clutch cover fasteners down (before having them all the way tightened), check for the disks to be centered in the clutch cover (just look at the hubs to make sure they are centered in the clutch cover fingers). Tighten the clutch cover fasteners down in a star-pattern in several steps to evenly bed the surfaces. Torque the clutch cover fasteners down to 22-24 ft/lbs with a torque wrench.

Any other questions?
 
I don't like the PTT disks or their wimpy hubs that disintegrate over time, also causing damage to your input shaft.

PLEASE, inspect your input shaft splines for wear, twisting, damage, etc. If the splines are damaged you will require a transmission teardown and new input shaft installed.
 
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