More 10"converter testing (video)

[Car Cannibal]

Whoa, you're getting 3500rpm on a T67 without Nitrous and you said "only". That's great, I was seeing 3300rpm with a 11" restall running a 57trim years ago. Hit it with a 50 shot and it's probably into the mid 4ks no problem.

 

[yellowrs]

Without nitrous mine only flashes to 3500, where my t67 only spools to 4 psi and it stops there. I will mess with timing and other settings, but the converter alone is not enough without nitrous for a large turbo. But for a 16g it would spool instantly and great. It is much better than stock but still cant spool a large turbo without a burst of nitrous to get over the hump. Is this what you guys see too? ANd what kind of timing you run on spool up?

Yeah thats about what we get out of it with out n2o.

All you guys that arent wanting to use nitrous why are you guys using this? Quick Spool Valve- The ultimate TQ producing part for your Turbocharged car

 

[kp116]

Whoa, you're getting 3500rpm on a T67 without Nitrous and you said "only". That's great, I was seeing 3300rpm with a 11" restall running a 57trim years ago. Hit it with a 50 shot and it's probably into the mid 4ks no problem.

I was kind of thinking the same thing. My s366 with a .91 divided t4 with a twin scroll manifold on a ipt restall only see's 3krpm and builds 5psi without the nitrous. Now that the timing it turned way down I don't think it will go past 2500rpm..

 

[GDNF2ET]

Whoa, you're getting 3500rpm on a T67 without Nitrous and you said "only". That's great, I was seeing 3300rpm with a 11" restall running a 57trim years ago. Hit it with a 50 shot and it's probably into the mid 4ks no problem.

You miss read his post.
"Without nitrous mine only flashes to 3500,( meaning his HTA68 ) where my t67 only spools to 4 psi and it stops there".

 

[Car Cannibal]

Any clarification here Larry, are you saying the stock converter and HTA68 is 3500rpm or the 10" with the T67?

Timing, AF/R, 2 Step and Nitrous all help, I saw best results with high timing (near 30) and a somewhat fat AF/R (high 11's) to get my rpms up. I'd like to add a 2 Step from here to add psi to that rpm to really get things going.

 

[larrykoren]

Well I am actually having weird problems now. But It was going to about 3500 pretty quick with the 67mm, but it would never make more than 4psi or go above 3500rpms. Secondly it is a 67mm compressor but inside a FP bolt on turbine housing (smaller than normal turbos with that compressor). I ran it at the track and it went 12.8 @130 was the best. My best 60ft was 2.7 no matter what I did with timing, afr, or 2 step or antilag. It is way to big and doesnt get full spool til a little over 5k and from the 3500 to 5k it is a DOG.

With the 68hta it does flash fast and would spool VERY fast BUT I am getting knock when I do it no matter what. If I just slam the gas the rpms rise to about 2900 almost instantly and then it knocks, pulls timing and stops spooling or rising.

If I slowly push on the gas I can get it to my 2step at 4k decently fast like 5-7 sec, but that isnt much better than my stock converter. This converter would go much faster if I could find out how to not have it knock when it flashes fast. I have been trying everything for 2 days. Raising timing right where it knocks, lowering it where it knocks, richening it up where it knocks, leaning it where it starts to knock, everything. I dunno. Its pissing me off.

Either way I was dissapointed and ran like crap with the FP3575 (67mm) without nitrous and I am back to the 68hta until after the shootout when I get nitrous and smim.

 

[beansblacktsi]

Well I am actually having weird problems now. But It was going to about 3500 pretty quick with the 67mm, but it would never make more than 4psi or go above 3500rpms. Secondly it is a 67mm compressor but inside a FP bolt on turbine housing (smaller than normal turbos with that compressor). I ran it at the track and it went 12.8 @130 was the best. My best 60ft was 2.7 no matter what I did with timing, afr, or 2 step or antilag. It is way to big and doesnt get full spool til a little over 5k and from the 3500 to 5k it is a DOG.

With the 68hta it does flash fast and would spool VERY fast BUT I am getting knock when I do it no matter what. If I just slam the gas the rpms rise to about 2900 almost instantly and then it knocks, pulls timing and stops spooling or rising.

If I slowly push on the gas I can get it to my 2step at 4k decently fast like 5-7 sec, but that isnt much better than my stock converter. This converter would go much faster if I could find out how to not have it knock when it flashes fast. I have been trying everything for 2 days. Raising timing right where it knocks, lowering it where it knocks, richening it up where it knocks, leaning it where it starts to knock, everything. I dunno. Its pissing me off.

Either way I was dissapointed and ran like crap with the FP3575 (67mm) without nitrous and I am back to the 68hta until after the shootout when I get nitrous and smim.

just turn the knock sensor off......I have never ran mine.

 

[larrykoren]

Ya I should because I dont get any knock at ALL when going through the gears. But I also dont like to hurt anything. If its knocking it must be for a reason. I believe it is going through a bunch of dif timing cells really fast and messing it up. I might try it a couple times and see how fast it will spool though.

 

[TurboDSM90]

Keep it off under 5K.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Larry, what rpm where you spooling to before the 10" converter with your 67mm turbo (w/o Nitrous)?
3500rpm is a lot for that big of a turbo w/o Nitrous, a 50 shot will really wake it up and get it moving out of the hole.

 

[larrykoren]

I guess it is alot however it didnt make boost at that rpm and didnt move out of the hole AT ALL at that rpm, so I am disappointed with the 2.7 60ft and results. However I knew before hand I was going to need nitrous.

I never ran the 67mm before this converter.

With the 16g, the stock converter did well and might even be out performing this new one. Knock and other issues are the cause for the stock outperforming it though. I will see what it will do at the track wednesday with the 16g and converter and get real back to back results.

But with a 16g the stock converter is golden. Actually so are stock cams. I didnt gain a bit by changing cams with the 68hta. Everyone told me I should but I had a feeling that 33psi to redline was maxing the hotside of the turbo out and cams wouldnt help since it is backed up in the 7cm2 turbine housing. But this is not the place for cams .

I am just disappointed that new parts didnt help the 16g setup.

The converter and cams will help the 67mm setup a ton though. I just cant wait to get nitrous. The converter is good and I expect it to do great on nitrous. But dont expect anything without nitrous. 2.7 60ft sucks when I am used to 1.4....

 

[Long Duk Dong]

Well I am actually having weird problems now. But It was going to about 3500 pretty quick with the 67mm, but it would never make more than 4psi or go above 3500rpms. Secondly it is a 67mm compressor but inside a FP bolt on turbine housing (smaller than normal turbos with that compressor). I ran it at the track and it went 12.8 @130 was the best. My best 60ft was 2.7 no matter what I did with timing, afr, or 2 step or antilag. It is way to big and doesnt get full spool til a little over 5k and from the 3500 to 5k it is a DOG.

With the 68hta it does flash fast and would spool VERY fast BUT I am getting knock when I do it no matter what. If I just slam the gas the rpms rise to about 2900 almost instantly and then it knocks, pulls timing and stops spooling or rising.

If I slowly push on the gas I can get it to my 2step at 4k decently fast like 5-7 sec, but that isnt much better than my stock converter. This converter would go much faster if I could find out how to not have it knock when it flashes fast. I have been trying everything for 2 days. Raising timing right where it knocks, lowering it where it knocks, richening it up where it knocks, leaning it where it starts to knock, everything. I dunno. Its pissing me off.

Either way I was dissapointed and ran like crap with the FP3575 (67mm) without nitrous and I am back to the 68hta until after the shootout when I get nitrous and smim.

I would be curious to know if it is truly picking up knock. It could be false knock meaning that the knock sensor is picking up some other noise that is setting it off and causing it to pull timing. Example, I was picking up false knock on my 87 Grand National (10.50 car) on the 1st to 2nd shift. I was able to determine that it was false knock by reading the logs carefully and noticed that it always pulled timing suddenly at the 1-2 shift. Is there anything that is rattling or hitting against something while you are building boost that could be setting the knock sensor off? This may not apply to your situation but I thought I would toss it out there. You may want to turn it off below 5-5500 RPM if you determine that is is false knock. Good luck with it and please keep us posted.

I appreciate all of the stock cam, 16G info you have been posting. I have been following it closely. Thanks again.

 

[larrykoren]

Well man the weird thing is before the converter and cams, I never has a single count of knock when powerbraking. On stock converter it builds slowly. If I slowly build it on this converter with the 16g (taking about the same overall time as stock) it never knocks. But When It ramps up fast with the new converter, it knocks and stops building and drops.

It was like 1800 then slowly to 4k+ on stock converter.
Now it goes right to about 2900 then knocks and gets stuck at 2500 and even when knock stops it never builds. If I pedal it after the knock I can get it to continue but it takes twice as long as just going slow. If I just slowly push the gas down and let it build to my 4k 2 step it does great on the new converter and doesnt knock but it is almost as slow as stock.

I am going to the track wednesday to get more results and try stuff out and will let all know more and let everyone see dsmlink logs.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Not sure why you keep mentioning the 16G and Stock converter vs the 10" and T67, it's an unrealistic comparison and probably why you're disappointed. Easiest way to describe how difficult it is for a torque converter with large turbos is.....

16G Max Boost = What Rpm?
T67 Max Boost = What Rpm?

16G could be 3200rpm, T67 could be 5200rpm, that's what the converter has to overcome to get you to the sweet spot. Seriously, 3500rpm is a lot for that turbo considering the amount of torque your 2.0L is probably making in that rpm range.

I bet this weekend after the Nitrous hit you'll be happy.

 

[Long Duk Dong]

Got to be carefull spraying it if it is pulling allot of timing. That can cause some very ugly results.

Jim C.

 

[yellowrs]

Just a little update, we took the car back to the track and netted our best 60' ft yet. We went a 1.31 and backed it up with a 1.29i

 

[Long Duk Dong]

:

Just a little update, we took the car back to the track and netted our best 60' ft yet. We went a 1.31 and backed it up with a 1.29i

Thats flat out gettin it done slim.

 

[Car Cannibal]

1.29 only a select few have hit below 1.3 60fts in a DSM, awesome job!!!!

What's the 1/8th mile on any of those runs, 5.4's?

 

[yellowrs]

1.29 only a select few have hit below 1.3 60fts in a DSM, awesome job!!!!

What's the 1/8th mile on any of those runs, 5.4's?

This is the second auto car we have gone 1.2x sixtys with . On the 1.30 pass it went a 5.7 we are in the process of turning the boost up so I had the timing really safe to check the a/f. Then on the 1.29 pass we broke a planetary in 2nd gear but I can tell you by the 330 it was on a pass. Ipt will have our tranny fixed up in no time, I gotta say thanks to those guys for all the support they give us with our trannys.

 

[kp116]

Congrats Jesse! You plan on having all the talons back at the shootout this year?

 

[yellowrs]

At this point I highly doubt it. I just fired my car this past week end with a brand new engine, turbo, and converter. The chances of me getting mine track ready and dailed in in time aren't very good.

 

[larrykoren]

Not sure why you keep mentioning the 16G and Stock converter vs the 10" and T67, it's an unrealistic comparison and probably why you're disappointed. Easiest way to describe how difficult it is for a torque converter with large turbos is.....

16G Max Boost = What Rpm?
T67 Max Boost = What Rpm?

16G could be 3200rpm, T67 could be 5200rpm, that's what the converter has to overcome to get you to the sweet spot. Seriously, 3500rpm is a lot for that turbo considering the amount of torque your 2.0L is probably making in that rpm range.

I bet this weekend after the Nitrous hit you'll be happy.

I am comparing my 16g on the stock converter and the 16g on the 10in max stall. I did mention how the 67mm turbo spooled and I mentioned my 2.7 60 ft with it. But when I was talking about building boost, I mentioned how the 16g is not doing any better with the new converter than stock because its pulling timing and knocking unless I go slowly. And if I go slow it evens out.

My 67mm doesnt hit 36psi til 5500 rpms. And with the 4 psi at around 3500 rpms the 2.7 60 ft and the car doesnt hit full boost or even start accelerating until after the 60ft mark.

I know I am comparing alot at once and might not be keeping it very straight. I had 16g stock converter, then 16g 10 in max stall converter, then 67mm with 10in max stall converter.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Ah, that makes sense now, whoa, once you get that timing figured out, a 16G with that 10" converter will be in Axle Busting County. That could be easily in the 5500rpm range no doubt if the brakes would even hold it at that point.

36psi on a T67 must feel like a time warp when it all comes in, good luck getting this combo worked out with the 10", it will be a beast.

 

[dsmmack]

Just a little update, we took the car back to the track and netted our best 60' ft yet. We went a 1.31 and backed it up with a 1.29i

Son of a... Damn that's impressive. Congrats.

What slicks? M&H?

 

[larrykoren]

Ah, that makes sense now, whoa, once you get that timing figured out, a 16G with that 10" converter will be in Axle Busting County. That could be easily in the 5500rpm range no doubt if the brakes would even hold it at that point.

36psi on a T67 must feel like a time warp when it all comes in, good luck getting this combo worked out with the 10", it will be a beast.

Ok I got the 16g figured out at the track today. It does get up faster than the stock converter for sure I would say it got to my 4200 rpm 2 step in about 4 seconds. The highest I could get it to was 4750 before my brakes couldnt hold it back anymore.

Yes the 67mm turbo is so much faster than the 16g and at 36 psi it flies. I cannot wait to be able to launch it with that.

I ran a bunch of 10.8 and 10.9s today. My 60ft was the same as with the stock converter. High 1.4 and low 1.5. However my 1.4 times were 10.8 and 10.9 at best. WHich is a little slower. I really think it has to be the cams. I can only hold 29psi to redline with the kelford 272s. I was holding 33 psi to redline with the stockers. SO I dont really recommend the cams for the 16g. I know every other person in the world does, but im telling you it is slower, if only by a little and idle is much harder to dial in. FOr the 67mm the cams work great and I am revving to 9k with tons of power.

I got my staging down and my lights were great and I was consistent. I was so close to winning money in bracket racing which was pretty fun.