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Mods or maintenance on 1G DSM?

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FeskarBlauk

Probationary Member
23
1
Jan 1, 2015
Tromsø, Europe
Hey!

I recently bought an 1G DSM 1993 model FWD. It's rolled 230 000 km's and I'm completely new to the car world, I'm from the bike world, but anyhow! I want to get a little more power out of my car, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea since it's rolled so far and probably has seen some misuse. I'm thinking of maybe doing maintenance like changing oil, filters and such as a start instead of breaking the car with no clue of what I'm doing. But what kind of mods should I do to it?
 
Cage it, rally it!

OK, well, start somewhere other than that. Most everyone here will likely tell you to check the Resources tab up above, read the FAQ section. It totally will tell you everything you could ever want to know. I, however like to talk about what my plans are with the car, with real people, and hear their thoughts, even though everything that has ever been thought of or done to a DSM has been discussed on these forums already!

Under the resources tab, there is also 1G Upgrade Paths, which basically outlines how to upgrade, and what to do first, or with whatever budget you have... They really have thought it all here already! :)

There you go!

Oh, also, contrary to popular belief, a DSM will last forever if properly maintained. Most people want to spend $200 every five years, and then wonder why things break... Don't do that!
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-dsm-upgrade-paths.486218/

Maintenance first.
Change fluids, timing belt, balance shaft belt, timing components, water pump, new seals, new struts and springs if the old ones are worn out, etc.

You can find gasket kits online. I suggest buying it. MAKE SURE TO INSPECT ALL TIMING SIDE SEALS IF YOU DO A TIMING BELT! Hell, if you can just replace them at the same time anyway. It would be a perfect time to replace your oil pump seal and your camshaft seals. Although if they aren't leaking they can be a pain in the ass so it's really up to you.

Compression test your motor and make sure it still has good compression. Why through money at a bad motor? If you rebuild it right now, your car will be faster and you will have piece of mind. Plus it's the best time to replace annoying seals.

Check your turbo for shaft play, replace any shit Ebay parts such as cheap turbos or exhaust manifolds, possibly even a ebay blow off valve. If your car isn't set up for recirculating your blow off valve, recirculate it. Finally boost leak test everything.

Make sure your clutch isn't dragging if it is use this guide to fix it.
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Watch it to make sure it isn't as well, if you don't know how to that is. Also replace your clutch if it is slipping.

Check your cooling system for proper freeze protection if necessary in your area for the time of year. Inspect all hoses, even the small ones that go to the heater core, throttle body, and connecting to the fill location. The small hoses take a few minutes to replace and cost very little to replace, hell I'd replace them anyway. If you have shit in your coolant flush the radiator until the water comes out clean.

Inspect your ball joints - if they can be greased GREASE THEM!, check wheel bearings, inspect all suspension bushings.

Check your power steering system for leaks at the reservoir, lines, pump (especially around the nut that holds the top line to it), and finally the power steering rack itself. Although I stated it a bit late at this point. Make sure your pump hasn't failed internally by pushing on the tie rods. The pump is a bit of a pain in the ass to pull but VFAQ has a great write up on it (Just google VFAQ and find it there).

The last things I can think of is to replace any heatshields, especially the shielding on your hood and the manifold. Check your alternator and battery and make sure they are pushing out proper voltage.


Words of advice. Don't go cheap. Buy proven parts and look at as many other people's build paths before deciding your own. Read up and build your car as a whole for what you want the first time. It will save time and money in the long run. Also go OEM for as many parts as possible. Lots of aftermarket parts are shit. For timing belts go OEM or Gates. For seals and gaskets go felpro or OEM, some other brands make good parts but do some research before going away from OEM.

Do it right and you wont have to do it twice.
 
Only pick "upgrades before maintenance" if said upgrades will get rid of parts that need to be maintenanced. Example: don't replace a busted bushing in the suspension if you are getting ready to upgrade to something that does not require that bushing.
 
The more maintenance you do, the more you learn about your car and the better of you will be. You also might be able o mod it as you maintain it. If you have a leaky SMIC or piping you might just upgrade to a FMIC if the price is around the same.

Bad turbo? Get one that will spool better.
 
Like mentioned above, I would definitely go ahead and do the timing belt first. Nothing is worse and a broken belt resulting in bent vales, cracked pistons etc... This forum will be your best friend as you start your path with your car. Use the search button first before posting, trust me we have all learned the hard way. Most questions will have come up by now and most of the time there will be something that will help you fix any issues you have. With that being said though, if you do have an issue or question you cannot seem to find the answer to, don't be afraid to post a new thread! Welcome!
 
Gates makes a great Kevlar reinforced belt btw. While your at it, go ahead and replace the tensioner with an OEM Mitsubishi part. DO NOT use knock offs, especially when it comes to timing components. What may save you a couple bucks now will cost you THOUSANDS in the long run!
 
All of the above and make sure you check fluid levels in the transfer case if its an all wheel drive car and the rear differential fluid. When I got my car and decided it was time to start I started with maintenance first and found out my transfer case and rear dif were VERY low on fluid. Do the basics so they are out of the way down to the last little thing you can think of before upgrading unless like above, you can upgrade at the same time you are doing maintenance. Welcome!!! :talon: :thumb:
 
Okay, I think I'll do my maintenance first haha! But when it comes to modding. I just need a setup that delivers around 220 HP... I don't need around 300, so what setup is required to reach that kind of HP? Turbo kit, intercooler?
 
Tuning software of some kind, bigger (16g, 18g, 20g) turbo. Larger injectors to supply more fuel (750-850 or so) and a wideband a/f guage to see what your air fuel ratios are. A bigger intercooler when it gets warmer would work nice but not needed right now, but the little side mount intercooler will heat soak if you hot rod around alot. Cold air intake is always a good mod too for sure. Just to name a few basics.
 
Tuning software of some kind, bigger (16g, 18g, 20g) turbo. Larger injectors to supply more fuel (750-850 or so) and a wideband a/f guage to see what your air fuel ratios are. A bigger intercooler when it gets warmer would work nice but not needed right now, but the little side mount intercooler will heat soak if you hot rod around alot. Cold air intake is always a good mod too for sure. Just to name a few basics.
Okay cool :) But it's the normal aspirated car. Is it hard to set ut a turbo kit for a moderate beginner to cars? I'm thinking something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/TD05-DSM-1G...LON-2-0-4G63-/201259512289?fits=Model:Eclipse
 
Yes it is harder to turbo a non-turbo car, I'm sorry. I didn't catch the n/t part. Still fun cars but just remember, they are old, so maintenance is the first thing then maybe a header, full flow exhaust and a cold air intake for your car. The turbo cars have mostly been drove hard and put away wet so they REALLY need the maintenance and then go for the upgrades. You might want to browse the non turbo section and see what others have done. I had a N/T 3g (2001 model) and I loved it.....until I got a turbo car. Then the fun and crying and lack of money come in, LOL. Still, they are all fun little monsters and can have much life left if kept up. :thumb: I am currently rebuilding my engine/trans etc so I am crying and money goes like water. I will soon start a build thread documenting my rebuild with tips on a few things that I haven't seen yet like modifying a new oil pan that doesn't fit with main studs in a motor, but it wasn't anything a BFH couldn't fix!!! I will start that pretty soon but its very cold in Kansas right now so not much getting done since the car is outside in the carport (no garage, wish I had a shop, she would be done and I would be driving her again). :banghead:
 
That's a great amount. Should pay for maintenance and basic mods. I don't think you should try to turbo this car. It's not an easy or cheap process.
Money is not an issue and I like to get my hands dirty.. It can't be an impossible task right? If you buy premade kits, do ALOT! Of research, get the right tools, buy all the necessary parts and take my time doing it. Have some faith bro <3
 
If your hp goal is around 220, I would stay N/A! It will keep it running a lot longer, and be much cheaper. The N/A engines have higher compression, and with that you would need to run low boost anyway without going to forged internals. I would do the basic bolt ons and maybe some head work then call it done. Just my .02! If once you hit your hp goal and you want more, then look into boosting it! I would not worry about any ECU work at this point either, unless you want to go the turbo route. Again, some nice head work and bolt ons will def. get you to the 220hp mark!
 
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