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mods but dont know which order

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sethtroy

20+ Year Contributor
47
0
Feb 28, 2003
Clovis, California
hello everyone i have just bought a 1990 eagle talon awd. i have about 2k to spend in parts. my goa is to hit mid 12's. i have a list of parts that i think might get me there and have done some research. but dont know what order to do them. also if anyone thinks i should get somthing other than what i got please feel free to give me your opinion. keep in mind this is a daily driver and i know these parts will add up to more than 2k. thanks for any help

apexi n1 cat-back
rre dp with the slightly slanted part for a evo o2 housing
evo 3 o2 housing
evo 3 exhaust manifold
evo 3 big 16g turbo
magnecor spark plug wires
ngk plugs (dont know which ones yet)
660cc denso injectors
apexi safc
slowboy fmic
clutch ( not sure which one yet)
apexi a/f meter / turbo timer
boost gauge and egt gauge
 
I'd go with ngk bpr7es for your setup. Slowboy racing makes a very nice core but if you read the thread about ebay fmic, u can save a lot of money by getting an xoxo core for example and designing your own piping. And if you dont already have one, get an intake filter rather than the black box in there. With a 90 i'd do all your regular maintainence first too. Hope that helps
 
hello everyone i have just bought a 1990 eagle talon awd. i have about 2k to spend in parts. my goa is to hit mid 12's. i have a list of parts that i think might get me there and have done some research. but dont know what order to do them. also if anyone thinks i should get somthing other than what i got please feel free to give me your opinion. keep in mind this is a daily driver and i know these parts will add up to more than 2k. thanks for any help

apexi n1 cat-back
rre dp with the slightly slanted part for a evo o2 housing
evo 3 o2 housing
evo 3 exhaust manifold
evo 3 big 16g turbo
magnecor spark plug wires
ngk plugs (dont know which ones yet)
660cc denso injectors
apexi safc
slowboy fmic
clutch ( not sure which one yet)
apexi a/f meter / turbo timer
boost gauge and egt gauge

Don't forget a 255 fuel pump and AFPR. You'll need an MBC, too.

I'd trade the a/f meter, turbo timer, SAFC, egt, and evo3 mani for a ported 2g mani (port it yourself while you're porting the turbo) and DSMlink.
 
thanks for all the advice everyone. what if i got the evo 3 o2 housing the rre downpipe and the apexi n1 exhaust 1st. would i have any problems bolting the evo o2 housing up to the 14b turbo? also would it be safe until i could get the evo mainfold. thanks again

nate
 
thanks for all the advice everyone. what if i got the evo 3 o2 housing the rre downpipe and the apexi n1 exhaust 1st. would i have any problems bolting the evo o2 housing up to the 14b turbo? also would it be safe until i could get the evo mainfold. thanks again

nate

I think that getting the exhaust first is a good idea, but I don't know about the 14b/evo o2 mating possibility. The stock 1g mani should be fine with an evo3. If you get the evo3 turbo and it's ported, I'd make sure whatever mani you have is matched, but I've heard that the 1g mani cracks easily and moreso when ported. I still think you should just port a stock 2g mani. Lots of folks with good numbers on a ported 2g, and it's cheap (especially if you port it yourself). I'm not too fond of SAFC with 660s, so that's why I'm recommending DSMlink.

The narrowband a/f gauges are apparently crap, and the egt gauge is also of limited usefulness. The turbo timer may not be needed depending on whether or not you'd have to wait a minute or so before shutting down (if this is just a daily driver, and you don't boost the hell out of it all the way to the parking lot at work or driveway at home, you've probably cooled the hotside enough). Saving money on all of those (including the ex. mani.) along with not buying SAFC would make it much more affordable to get DSMlink and get much more tuning capability and room for growth (SAFC works even worse when you go past 660s).

So that's my suggestion.
 
Why apexi on a 1g? Just get a megan or dejon kit for real cheap and call it a day. Otherwise i agree, intake and exhaust first. BUT, first first, get a REAL boost gauge. I also agree about the link. Much better, but if you're good with electronics, get MS and run SD.
 
Get dsmlink, then get a MAP sensor (GM3bar, etc). Log MAP.

Have fun.

Or he could just get an electronic Greedy boost gauge and use that to log boost. 2 birds one stone.

But I agree if I had to start from scratch after intake/exhaust I'd get the DSMLink and a wideband immediately. Makes life 100x easier.

Also you might want to take some of that money and make sure everything is up to snuff before you start modding, it would suck to get the tiiiite exhaust and bling gauges just to have your timing belt snap.
 
i would suggest checking all your fluids, timing belt, balance shaft belt, spark plugs and wires. and if i were you check out the timing belt out asap if you dont know when it was last replaced i would have it done just to be safe!!
 
i would suggest checking all your fluids, timing belt, balance shaft belt, spark plugs and wires. and if i were you check out the timing belt out asap if you dont know when it was last replaced i would have it done just to be safe!!

I agree. Start at Stage 0 - a car in good running condition and with all the maintenance done
 
+1 for maintenance
go all oem it may cost a little more but very much so worth it, www.jnztuning.com
These cars are like 10-15 year old whores. They have been rode hard for a long time with little work. Then go for tunabliity.
 
Unless you can get away with upgrading stock crappy stuff to go fast. Like if your exhaust needs to be done, or you need a new manifold, go for the go fast parts. But belts, fluids, plugs, wires DO FIRST.

And honestly, i'd recommend against magnacore. They have a CRAZY ammount of resistance. Accel and MSD have some of the lowest, so go with those. I have the Accel 300+ wires and they rock.
 
so then what everyone is saying is no apexi a/f meter /turbo timer, no apexi safc, and no egt gauge.

and get the dsm link and a 2g exhaust manifold?

all maintance will be done right away and everything checked to make sure i am at the point where i can modify.

also could i get smaller injectors than the 660 for my set up and be safe ?

thanks again for all the help.
 
another question is which intake do i want to get with the list of mods previously listed? i would like an intake with a pipe not just the filter on the stock black tube? also what guages would i need boost and what else? thanks

nate
 
so after all the maintainece is done...

+1 for dejontool.com for getting an intake or get the forced performance cast aluminum intake its badass.
get an autometer 30/30 vac/boost gauge not the 30/20 gauge and an oil pressure or water temp gauge with a dual pod
2.5 or 3in cat back
3in megan racing downpipe
2g o2 housing ported
2g manifold ported
walbro 190 fuel pump or a 255 with an aeromotive AFPR and pressure gauge
also might want to get some hard pipes for your intercooler from dejontool.com
EVOIII TURBO
Manual boost controller
DSM LINK!!!
and yes do not get the apexi safc because you wont need it with dsm link
and you can get what ever size injectors you want with dsm link. i would suggest some FIC 850 injectors and you can set dsm link to make them run just fine with your setup and then you will have the big injectors for later if you need them.
and i would suggest getting an aem wideband or an innovate wideband
then after all that get a front mount intercooler
 
so on the intake which one if i plan on keeping the stock mas? also which one will fit the evo big 16g and if i plan on going to a fmic ? thanks again
 
what is the part number on the basic one? i looked and there are like 10 diffrent ones. i really dont want to cut my plastic tubing
 
CIP-1gM is for the 1g maf this is what i would suggest using

CIP-1gP is for the 1g maf on a 23 degree angle

CIP-1gS willl work if you want to get a 2g maf which would be a great investment

all of these will fit the evo turbo
 
I'd suggest the CIP-1gMy to get all the tubes. You should keep your VC breather to keep your PCV system functional, and if you wanna eliminate the emissions stuff, you can just cap the other one. That's based on a 2g which has 4 tubes: BOV recirc, VC breather, charcoal canister line, and stock BCS. You could save some cash by getting the 1gM which only has the BOV tube, but it's up to you if it's worth $20 to add the VC breather nipple yourself.
 
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