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mating up automatic motor with manual trans

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halffast1g

10+ Year Contributor
178
0
Jul 11, 2008
phoenix, Arizona
I own a 91 eagle talon tsi awd. I purchased an automatic motor and it still has the flexplate own it. I will be using my existing manual transmission and flywheel/clutch combo on this motor. I have heard that there is a bushing of some sort between the flex plate and the block that must be taken out, and only came with the automatics. Can anyone confirm this rumor, and how to remove the bushing properly as well. thanks
 
Removing the flexplate: This is a simple task if you know how to do it....Use a 1/2" breaker bar attached to the pulley side of the engine and wedge it in so that the engine crankshaft won't turn. There are 6 19mm bolts (most years) that fasten the flex plate to the crankshaft. Use a breaker bar and be careful not to let the socket slip, you don't want to break or strip these bolts! They are grade 11 and impossible to drill out. After they are removed you don't need them anymore, the flywheel to crankshaft bolts are longer than the flexplate to crankshaft bolts. Remove all the spacers and bushings that were between the flexplate and the crankshaft. The new flywheel must be mounted directly to the crankshaft with NOTHING in between. The flywheel will rub on the inside of the tranny if you don't remove these pieces. Now may be a good time to do some preventative maintenance and replace the crankshaft seal (If you're quick you can do this without draining the engine oil, barely any will come out in the 5 minutes it takes to replace.)
 
I have heard that there is a bushing of some sort between the flex plate and the block that must be taken out, and only came with the automatics. Can anyone confirm this rumor, and how to remove the bushing properly as well. thanks

Yes, Its in the center of the crank, just pry it out if its stuck in there.

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You guys are ####ing saviors. All I need now are the longer flywheel bolts:thumb::thumb:
Anybody know the length and thread off hand?

I've been reading up on the flywheel's too, some say with the Fidanza you have to use the bushing and some say don't

To clear everything up, I'm using a manual trans, fidanza lightweight flywheel, act 2900
 
I've been reading up on the flywheel's too, some say with the Fidanza you have to use the bushing and some say don't

You never use that bushing thats in the end of the crank on a manual, the bushing you read about is a thin metal plate (see pic below) it acts as a washer and keeps the bolt heads from digging into the aluminum and becoming loose. The first time I installed my fidanza flywheel I used the stock flywheel bolts and didn't use the metal plate, when I broke a clutch disc after about 4000 miles and took the trans off all the bolts were still tight. I had to remove the flywheel to replace the friction surface and at that time I reinstalled it with longer flywheel bolts and the plate just to be safe. You should also install a dowel pin in the crank if it doesn't have one and use loctite on the flywheel bolts. Forced Performance sells a kit with the plate, longer flywheel bolts and a new dowel pin.


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Yes, Its in the center of the crank, just pry it out if its stuck in there.

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Just pry it outROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFL, thats really funny man, just pry it outLOLLOL. Get your dremel, grinder and sander cause you will need them. If the engine is out of the car you might want to rent a puller to remove it. Try to JUST PRY IT OUT and tell us how that goes plus some pics of bloody knuckles and bruised finger.ROFLROFLROFL JUST PRY IT OUT, priceless.
 

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I heard the use of an air chisel really helps, the only problem is that I don't have one haha
 
to get it out of my 7bolt 95 110K mile motor, I simply sprayed it down with WD-40.. let it sit for 15min and then I got a hammer and hit all around the edge.. I don't mean to hit the actual spacer but to hit the surrounding metal.. with the vibration of hitting, mine slowly made it's way out.. I didn't reuse the block so I don't know what kind of damage this could cause to the crank but no visible damage was done to with the smacking of the hammer..
 
how long does it take to grind it out, whats the best way of doing it?

Best way to remove it in the car, is to get some vice grips, and clamp them on the ring with one jaw on the inside, and one on the outside, not around the whole spacer. When the vicegrips are locked on as tight as possible, hit them as close to the ring as possible with a hammer. After a couple whacks, it will wiggle out.
 
how long does it take to grind it out, whats the best way of doing it?

Best way is if you can weld a nut on the centering ring and use a slide hammer (BIG slide hammer) or if you don't want the shock on the crank you may be able to weld a nut on it and thread a bolt into it to force the centering ring out.
 
Waking a dead thread but there is a really simple way of removing this, I know it seems like a completely stupid idea but it does work. Ive dont it myself.

Supplies:
1 roll of toilet paper
water
1 socket (biggest one that fits inside the hole)
1 extension that fits the socket
1 hammer

1. wet the TP and pack the hole full
2. turn the socket upside down and put the extension into it so the flat back of the socket is pointing out
3. insert socket into hole over TP
4. Smack the extension with a hammer so it drives the socket into the crank hole
5. catch the spacer
6 clean the TP out of the crank
7 Done

You can use wheel bearing grease instead of wet TP but its alot of mess.

Works the same as removing a pilot bearing from a crank, just bigger.

Enjoy!
 
Does this really work..? ROFL I love old-school tricks like this.
I'm assuming the water is the key here and hydraulic pressure is what pushes it out? So I guess just damp TP wouldn't do, you'd probably have to have it pretty well saturated so a good amount of water squeezes out when you hit it with the socket. Now I totally want to find something to try it on just to see :D


Waking a dead thread but there is a really simple way of removing this, I know it seems like a completely stupid idea but it does work. Ive dont it myself.

Supplies:
1 roll of toilet paper
water
1 socket (biggest one that fits inside the hole)
1 extension that fits the socket
1 hammer

1. wet the TP and pack the hole full
2. turn the socket upside down and put the extension into it so the flat back of the socket is pointing out
3. insert socket into hole over TP
4. Smack the extension with a hammer so it drives the socket into the crank hole
5. catch the spacer
6 clean the TP out of the crank
7 Done

You can use wheel bearing grease instead of wet TP but its alot of mess.

Works the same as removing a pilot bearing from a crank, just bigger.

Enjoy!
 
Waking a dead thread but there is a really simple way of removing this, I know it seems like a completely stupid idea but it does work. Ive dont it myself.

Supplies:
1 roll of toilet paper
water
1 socket (biggest one that fits inside the hole)
1 extension that fits the socket
1 hammer

1. wet the TP and pack the hole full
2. turn the socket upside down and put the extension into it so the flat back of the socket is pointing out
3. insert socket into hole over TP
4. Smack the extension with a hammer so it drives the socket into the crank hole
5. catch the spacer
6 clean the TP out of the crank
7 Done

You can use wheel bearing grease instead of wet TP but its alot of mess.

Works the same as removing a pilot bearing from a crank, just bigger.

Enjoy!

Yes.. this works.. Ive done it myself.. after about 4 hits the peice just dropped out.
 
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