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Manual to auto conversion

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boostneverlies

Proven Member
53
0
Mar 31, 2014
mil, Wisconsin
Hello,

I currently have a 92 awd 5-speed. I plan on switching over to auto. I'm currently at around 500 hp and plan on going higher. I have done a bit of research and made a list of the parts I need. Can someone who has done this swap look over it and give me some tips

92 auto transmission & xfer case (would a 2g be better?)
92 tcu
92 automatic shifter base & cables
6-bolt flex plate
92 front, rear, and passenger rail mounts
oil cooler

added
pilot bushing
auto diff


Do I also need to swap the rear diff and front axles?
 
Last edited:
Hello,

I currently have a 92 awd 5-speed. I plan on switching over to auto. I'm currently at around 500 hp and plan on going higher. I have done a bit of research and made a list of the parts I need. Can someone who has done this swap look over it and give me some tips

92 auto transmission & xfer case (would a 2g be better?)
92 tcu
92 automatic shifter base & cables
6-bolt flex plate
92 front, rear, and passenger rail mounts
oil cooler

Do I also need to swap the rear diff and front axles?

Yes to rear diff, front axles can be from either. Starter from either. You'll need a pilot bushing for the torque converter and the starter plate from an auto.

I don't understand. Why would anyone want to do this?

Reliability
Cheaper to build to hold the power
Less drivetrain shock on launch
Shifts faster than you'll ever be able to
Consistent for drag racing

Among others
 
A 2g Transmission will give you more Torque Converter options with one of the best being a Precision Billet.

This. I've heard rumor that they are a stronger transmission too, but can't confirm it.



craig4g63 said:
Reliability
Cheaper to build to hold the power
Less drivetrain shock on launch
Shifts faster than you'll ever be able to
Consistent for drag racing


Craig hit the nail on the head as well, but he forgot one thing, they are a stronger transmission than the 5-speeds are as well. All in what you prefer. I'm sure that someone will come in here and start bashing/causing a e-argument, but all BS aside that's what it is. Some people prefer a 5-speed because it's worth it to them, others like me prefer the auto for everything listed above, and I must admit one of the most fun cars I've ever driven was a 500awhp Auto AWD 1G with a Hurst ratchet shifter(and kiggly shifter mod). Nothing like it.
 
Wow, I've NEVER heard of a AUTO trans being cheaper to rebuild, able to take more power and more reliable than a manual... I know about faster shifts for drag.

Obviously I come from a different car world. Euro auto transmissions are complete crap.


How much would it costs to build a good auto for around 500hp? Where to get parts or already rebuilt upgraded ones?
 
Wow, I've NEVER heard of a AUTO trans being cheaper to rebuild, able to take more power and more reliable than a manual... I know about faster shifts for drag.

Obviously I come from a different car world. Euro auto transmissions are complete crap.


How much would it costs to build a good auto for around 500hp? Where to get parts or already rebuilt upgraded ones?

stock would hold 500 awhp, only with a 4 spider the 5 speed will hold 500
 
Oh great. So I'm putting a manual in my friends spyder that eventually he wants big power, 2.4l hybrid block with forged pistons and rods, that is going to break with 500hp?!

What do I need? the spider gear is that what your saying?

Wait, your talking the diff got a awd right? Mine is not a awd application.


I'm swapping it because his auto is slipping, clunking into gear, not wanting to go into gear and just doing all kinds of bad signs. Already flushed it and filter change, twice, and new range sensor.
 
Oh great. So I'm putting a manual in my friends spyder that eventually he wants big power, 2.4l hybrid block with forged pistons and rods, that is going to break with 500hp?!

What do I need? the spider gear is that what your saying?

Wait, your talking the diff got a awd right? Mine is not a awd application.


I'm swapping it because his auto is slipping, clunking into gear, not wanting to go into gear and just doing all kinds of bad signs. Already flushed it and filter change, twice, and new range sensor.

Oh 500fwhp should be okay on stock 5 speed, (healthy 5 speed) unless he made A LOT of torque, after that I would go with a built transmission or dogbox. Built transmission will last a lot longer then stock from what i've read, (and my stock awd 5 speed shat out with the small 16g on pump + meth/water inj.) No dyno numbers but I would *HOPE* in the 300awhp range. But I'm awd with 135k miles when it started going out.. My mechanic said it has a bent input shaft. :notgood: So i'm sending it in for a build by someone I know can build race transmissions.
 
Oh 500fwhp should be okay on stock 5 speed, (healthy 5 speed) unless he made A LOT of torque, after that I would go with a built transmission or dogbox. Built transmission will last a lot longer then stock from what i've read, (and my stock awd 5 speed shat out with the small 16g on pump + meth/water inj.) No dyno numbers but I would *HOPE* in the 300awhp range. But I'm awd with 135k miles when it started going out.. My mechanic said it has a bent input shaft. :notgood: So i'm sending it in for a build by someone I know can build race transmissions.



It's going on a built 2.4. Depending on the turbo he could be making quite a bit of torque and power very quickly. Much sooner than a 2.0L. I'd be wary of 500whp on a stock 5-speed if I'm honest. It's weird though, I've seen some make consistent low 10 second passes on a stock 5 speed and it hold together great, and I've seen others grenade so bad I'm amazed afterwords it doesn't take out the motor too, at 380-420~hp.
 
, they are a stronger transmission than the 5-speeds are as well. All in what you prefer.

They are not really stronger persay. The 5 speed uses intermediate 3rd gear to drive the car, so it is constantly being used, plus in 3rd gear it is getting used for 3rd gear. This places bending loads in both directions on the teeth, this fatigues the gear super super fast.

Autos do have fatigue failures in the same way a 5 speed does, however it does not happen as fast.

You all forget to mention you can't use OD in an auto, and the convertor slips some, this places a limit on how fast you can go unless you run really tall tires or turn super high RPM.

It seems like it's a delicate balance between finding a converter that is loose enough to get on the turbo, and tight enough not to slip and limit RPM on the big end.

OP you need at the very least an auto ring and pinion for your rear diff. Auto is 3.307:1, and a 5 speed is 3.545:1
 
They are not really stronger persay. The 5 speed uses intermediate 3rd gear to drive the car, so it is constantly being used, plus in 3rd gear it is getting used for 3rd gear. This places bending loads in both directions on the teeth, this fatigues the gear super super fast.

Autos do have fatigue failures in the same way a 5 speed does, however it does not happen as fast.

You all forget to mention you can't use OD in an auto, and the convertor slips some, this places a limit on how fast you can go unless you run really tall tires or turn super high RPM.

It seems like it's a delicate balance between finding a converter that is loose enough to get on the turbo, and tight enough not to slip and limit RPM on the big end.

OP you need at the very least an auto ring and pinion for your rear diff. Auto is 3.307:1, and a 5 speed is 3.545:1



Bastard! My old 5spd vs Auto sparring partner. :p Good to see you. :)


Also, I stand corrected about strength. Kurt knows his shit, so trust what he says. I'm currently dealing with the converter issues he mentioned as well.


I really wish these autos came 5 speed instead of 3spd w/ OD.
 
You all forget to mention you can't use OD in an auto, and the convertor slips some, this places a limit on how fast you can go unless you run really tall tires or turn super high RPM.
So I only have 3 gears to play with therefor I have to built the car to rev to 9k rpms? but I can use overdrive when driving on the streets/highway


It seems like it's a delicate balance between finding a converter that is loose enough to get on the turbo, and tight enough not to slip and limit RPM on the big end.
Can you explain to me what you mean by "loose and tight enough?
 
I don't understand. Why would anyone want to do this?

really???

im an auto owner, and i have friends with 5spds making 500+whp, they all run fine on the streets but once you get launching on the track, its a whole different story. the auto will always be more reliable then a 5spd. check out cdub racing talons, they had the fastest and sickest AWD auto 1gs. they broke a few drivetrain parts here and there, but hardly saw them breaking the trans.
 
Wow, I've NEVER heard of a AUTO trans being cheaper to rebuild, able to take more power and more reliable than a manual... I know about faster shifts for drag.

Obviously I come from a different car world. Euro auto transmissions are complete crap.


How much would it costs to build a good auto for around 500hp? Where to get parts or already rebuilt upgraded ones?


You have been misinformed, sir. Autos are cheaper to build and can take far far more abuse with less drivetrain problems than MT. Down side is you lose power, but i dont think it matters much especially when you can put the power to the ground that you couldnt(consistently at least) with a MT.
 
For what its worth I beat the crap out of my auto which is completely stock. I have a restalled stock converter, innards of the trans are stock, and I have the blue wire mod on a toggle switch and a custom chip for the tcU. I run 30psi on a 59lb.min turbo and put over 100mi a weekend while beating on this thing. Been doing this for about a year now with no issues.

Just make sure you get a good trans temp gauge and trans cooler.
 
You have been misinformed, sir. Autos are cheaper to build and can take far far more abuse with less drivetrain problems than MT. Down side is you lose power, but i dont think it matters much especially when you can put the power to the ground that you couldnt(consistently at least) with a MT.

Not coming from vehicles I am used to and just rebuilding stock to make things work. Every auto I have had has failed, costs to rebuild an auto is around $2000, they are way more complicated inside with a bunch of electronics running them.

Manuals are around $600 to fully rebuild and IMO have a lot less to go wrong.

I can totally see the auto for drag, I know the muscle guys use em power-glides and such. But for a DD to have fun with and be more reliable or at least easier to diagnose I'll stick manual any day.

Good info here though thanks!
 
Not coming from vehicles I am used to and just rebuilding stock to make things work. Every auto I have had has failed, costs to rebuild an auto is around $2000, they are way more complicated inside with a bunch of electronics running them.

Manuals are around $600 to fully rebuild and IMO have a lot less to go wrong.

I can totally see the auto for drag, I know the muscle guys use em power-glides and such. But for a DD to have fun with and be more reliable or at least easier to diagnose I'll stick manual any day.

Good info here though thanks!




Yeah, our Autos in DSM world aren't like that at all. I won't say cheap, because it has bad connotations in my mind, but they are less expensive to rebuild for sure and will last quite a long time in comparison to a stock 5-speed at the same power. For whatever reason it seems like in the import world, the Mitsubishi Auto trans are the exception. Euro, Honda, etc all have garbage Automatic transmissions that shit the bed at stock power levels. I check the transmission in my 06 Accord V6 religiously because I've heard multiple horror stories. It's somewhat ironic really, but in an Auto DSM I know I never have to worry about the transmission shitting the bed. One less thing to worry about breaking on a DSM saves you a ton of headache and your sanity. :p
 
LOL

was thinking of doing a 2g auto trans with the kiggly kit. just waiting for someone to part out their car. If I chose a 2g trans do I also need a 2g differential or will I be good with a 1g auto diff?
 
The starter bolts are different between 5-speed and Auto. You'll also need the interlock cables for the shifter base, or to find a way around that. There are 3 cables IIRC, 1 for shifting, 1 for the key lock out and one for the brake pedal lock out. Pedals aren't necessary, but are a nice touch.

With the 2g, it's fairly straight forward- swap the engine harness and you get the TCU control. I've heard that's a bit harder with a 1g. The 2g does have a security relay that needs it's position switched around to a different socket, both of which are included on the interior harness. I'm not sure about the 1g though.

Oh, the cluster may be different. Mine was. I have the functional O/D off and trans-temp light along with gear position indicator.

I wish I could tell you more of what to expect. I had an entire parts car and drug everything over... but it was 2g to 2g w/ full TCU control and a shift box.
 
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