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1G Manley piston rings... Help? (30+psi)

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Geeb

Proven Member
384
50
Apr 6, 2016
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
I got a set of manley pistons used off here. The guy told me they were std 85mm. Turned out they were 86.. Now I have to get my block bored and honed even though my cyl walls are in perfect shape. Oh well. Anyways..

The pistons are in OK shape, just some of the skirt coating rubbed off. I'm going to redo them in techline CBX (top) and DFL-1 (skirt) anyway. So onto the question.

Should I be reusing these rings that I removed off them?

Reason I'm asking is because don't you have to file newly purchased manley rings? And check gaps and do everything. I would hate to mess up a set of 120-150$ rings from not knowing what I'm doing.. They're file fit but does anyone use them right out of the box? Or if the used ones were never filed could I file these if I need to? What should I do?

This is my first real block-out engine build from top to bottom literally only reusing the bare head and bare block. So please forgive my newbness..

According to..
http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/tech/piston-rings.pdf
.. There's a specific gap supposed to be used for 30+psi. Im sure I'll be there.

Piston rings: Manley #46860-4

.. Keep in mind I'm shooting for a sorta safe limit of 550whp..

Thanks guys..
 
Personally, If I was rebuilding a block from the ground up I would replace all "consumable" parts.

ie: gaskets, valve seals, main+rod bearings, and piston rings.....etc.

Piston rings do wear out and with buying a set of unknown mileage pistons I'd be suspicious if they were still good....and even if they are maybe they only have 10K of life left in them so why risk it.

If your in there why not just switch em? If its a $$ thing they I get that but if you got the cash its worth the piece of mind.

Setting the proper gap is not hard either....just square it up in the cylinder using a piston and if it needs to be filed then just file it. Filing isn't hard either. Back in my Honda days, I used to just put a hand file with a fine "grit" in the vice grips and file by hand. My Honda rings never needed very much either like a few light passes on the abrasive and they were good to go.

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First off, I would send him back the pistons and if he doesnt pay you back I would file a paypal req to get your money as the item was not as described. I would then take that money and buy the right set of pistons. Youre doing more work then needed if your cylinder walls are fine.

If you decide to use the pistons, get new rings. Easy as that.
 
This is the second time it happened the first time the piston s were .020 over and this time .040... The first time I tried to say it wasn't as described and they only said back "well he said first there were no refunds at all" so I said "okay, so he could have sent me a shoe lace and since he said no refunds I would have to live with it? It wasnt as described" and no answer and that was that so this time around I figured what's the point... Looking at it from some backwards perspective it's kinda my fault too for not asking for pics of the part#.. But live and learn.. They were super cheap anyways... Almost free when I consider all I got with them.


Okay so anyways.. I thought when they said you have to file the gap correct, they meant file it like thinner, like file the whole ring down thinner so it alters the gap that the ring sits in.. Or is it just file down the gaps so they open up more? Is that the gap it means?

That might sound stupid but I never did it or saw it done before hah so hold the dummy comments until later... I will find a YouTube video that shows more in depth on "how to" but i was mainly trying to see if I had to in the first place..

Thanks guys.

And yeah I've spent so much $ in parts so far I'm trying to work with most of what I have. I am getting all new gaskets, seals, I rings, and crush washers and stuff...

I guess the end result is it's kind of an "up to you" situation, but with all roads pointing to its better if I do... Is that correct?
 
End gap , you place the ring in the cylinder about 1 inch down the bore use the piston flipped upside down . To square it in the bore and check the end gap with feeler guage. You should probably search I'm sure you will find good videos on YouTube
 
I should elaborate on my prior post, it doesn't make sense to bore a block .040 over to use used pistons. Especially since .040 is generally the last bore on a block, and there is a very limited number of 6bolts left out there. If you are willing to run whatever there are deals out there on pistons. My current set of .020 JE's I paid $425 for and they were coated tops and skirts. I bought a set of 1400HD stroker pistons for $250, I bought 3 sets of .040 over probes for $120ea, I also got a set of .020over CP's for $300. All of these were new.
 
I should elaborate on my prior post, it doesn't make sense to bore a block .040 over to use used pistons. Especially since .040 is generally the last bore on a block, and there is a very limited number of 6bolts left out there. If you are willing to run whatever there are deals out there on pistons. My current set of .020 JE's I paid $425 for and they were coated tops and skirts. I bought a set of 1400HD stroker pistons for $250, I bought 3 sets of .040 over probes for $120ea, I also got a set of .020over CP's for $300. All of these were new.


I'm just planning my build now....where did yo find 1400HD stokers for $250? That price is pretty sweet.
 
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