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Major Clutch Slippage

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WhoNeedsV8

15+ Year Contributor
192
0
Mar 26, 2004
Kenosha, Wisconsin
For some reason my clutch just started to slip extremely bad at WOT in 2nd and 3rd. I"ve launched it numerous times recently and it still grips as well as all of 1st gear. WOT at around 4k the clutch slips out and the revs go without the car moving. Obviously alot of clutch burnt smell from this. I'm guessing something is up with my master/slave cylinders?
 
For some reason my clutch just started to slip extremely bad at WOT in 2nd and 3rd. I"ve launched it numerous times recently and it still grips as well as all of 1st gear. 2nd and 3rd gear in WOT at around 4k the clutch slips out and the revs go without the car moving. Obviously alot of clutch burnt smell from this. I'm guessing something is up with my master/slave cylinders?
 
That happened to me in my old neon, it always seems to work in first but if you get going up to speed like you normally would and lets say your just crusing in 4th gear and you slam on the gas the rpms jump with no real car movement. The clutch could jus be worn out, I ended up replacing mine.
 
When you say the clutch slips out do you mean it disengages? And or does the pedal go to the floor. I don't see any way your slave or master cylinders could be failing due to speed or RPMs. In fact I am having a hard time picturing what could cause it to do that.
 
The clutch disengages and slips out by itself between 3k-5k in 2nd and 3rd gear on WOT. No the petal doesn't go to the floor. It actually started doing this after I installed UICP/ 1g BOV. I didn't think that would of put it over the top torque wise, but I could be wrong. Also the clutch makes a faint clicking noise as I depress it.
 
:confused:
I don't know
I think my only advice would be to leave it at home or use it as little as possible untill you get a better idea of what's wrong.
Get a light and look in the hole the cluch fork goes in, see if you can notice any thing out of place. If it was a torque issue it would slip in the lower gears more.
 
more than likely it is your clutch wearing out, awd kinda kicks there asses

if it was your slave or master cylender you would have poor ingagement/disingagment and a crappy peddle feel and leak clutch fluid.

i would really strongly recomend a act 2600 clutch with a street disk, the race disks chatter and the 2600 is a strong proven clutch i love mine and i would put it in my next dsm first thing even if my clutch was fine.

if/when you replace the clutch you need to have the flywheel resurfaced correctly dsms are very very picky about flywheel resurfacing search around www.roadraceenginering.com they have a thing about flywheel resurfacing
 
Road Race Engineering also makes their own lightened stock flywheels (lightened to 14lbs I believe), stepped correctly for the act 2600. Just another option to think about when considering flywheel options :thumb:
 
Most of the time the clutch is going to start slipping in the higher gears and at WOT before 1st and light acceleration sees any ill effect.


It is time to get a new clutch. If you are going to have the car down and replacing it with an ACT, go with the full system. Flywheel, PP, and disc. For the extra $100 you will love it. Trust me.


And go 2600. The 2100 is nice, but AWD will like the 2600 more. :thumb:
 
I wouldn't get one of thoe RRE lightened stock flywheels. They're probably okay if you don't plan on making any power. But if you are, be prepared to invest in a scatter shield. Those lightened stock flywheels tend to shatter and break through the bell housing and some cases go through your firewall. So I'd be worried about your passenger.

Get a xACT or Fidanza flywheel. Those things are becomming cheaper and cheaper.

If you know anyone that are good with DSMs or have one, then spend a weekend on it; do it yourself. Your looking at a $3-400 job at the mechanics.
 
Basically call up local shops and ask what the labor rate is.


The book is 7.5 hours. That is what they are going to go by.
 
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