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Maintenance/Performance Parts

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IIv SHaDoW vII

15+ Year Contributor
369
1
May 8, 2007
Topeka, Kansas
I'd like to get everyone's opinion on where I can find good quality maintenance parts for my newly purchased 98 GSX 5-speed. The car has 142,xxx miles.

A/C belt?
P/S belt?
Alt belt?

For the accessory belts, I was thinking about going with the Gates ones at ExtremePSI.
Also, does anyone know the part number for each of these belts if I decide to go to Advance or Autozone?

Tranny fluid? (Stock with 142,xxx miles)

Flywheel/Clutch combo?
I am looking for a little better than stock (Maybe stage 2 clutch, and a lightened flywheel). The price is not an issue at this point. I'm not opposed to stock replacement clutch but I would like something a little stronger.

What type of plugs and wires?
I am pretty set on the NGK wires (ME77) and BPR7ES plugs. I hear the iridium ones aren't particularly better for our cars and most DSMers stick with the copper ones.

Fuel filter?
Probably not really that important, but since I plan on replacing it, I figured I would throw it in here.

Starter/Alternator/Battery?
For the starter and alternator, I assume any replacement at the autoparts store will do. However, I was thinking about getting an alternator with the relocation kit. I was thinking about going with an Optima Redtop battery.
 
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Just get Autozone belts, there is no need for a stonger Gates belt unless you are looking to go for a color option. What's a stage 2 clutch?? This isn't Honda or Fast and Furious, if the brand you are looking at lists it as a "stage 2" or stage whatever, post a link so we can see the pressure plate rating and the clutch material style. Post your power goals will help determine what clutch you would actually need.

For ignition, you want to run NGK BPR6ES plugs seeing as you aren't pushing much air and NGK wires are fine especially since they are stock wires. OEM fuel filter/Autozone replacement is good or just go with a micron filter and switch in to -AN fuel lines http://www.maperformance.com/dsm-fuel-nitrous-water-injection/.

I haven't had any issues with my AZ starter but their alternators do not hold up well on our vehicles which seems to be from the heat from the turbo. I've gone through 4 within a month before switching to a used OEM one which is still running strong. If you use a relocation kit to move the alternator to the back of the block to where the AC compressor was, perhaps it will be fine to use the AZ alternator. If you do move it, consider routing new power wires. There is also the Saturn alternator swap as well.
 
Stage two would be an act 2600 pressure plate.

I got into this with a shop owner once.
Stage 1 = 2100
stage 2 = 2600
stage 3 = 2900

That still doesn't work, there are multiple 2600 clutch discs. Is it an organic full face, a pucked disc, sprung, un sprung? The 2600 is just the pressure plate for it's clamping force, there is more to a clutch and how it holds than the pressure plate.

Besides, if he has little to no power goals right now a full 2100 clutch kit would be good for him assuming it was ACT.
 
Stage two would be an act 2600 pressure plate.

I got into this with a shop owner once.
Stage 1 = 2100
stage 2 = 2600
stage 3 = 2900

So tell me this, what "stage" is an Clutchmaster FX300? By your calculation it would be less than a "stage 2" considering its a 2500lb PP, however, it's the 3rd strongest clutch in Clustmaster's line up, so wouldn't that make it a "stage 3"? Stage's are a sales gimmick for ebay companies selling shitty clutches.

OP- Clutches I'd highly recommend looking into the South Bend clutches, they're a little more pricey, but well worth the money. I used one in my tiburon and LOVE it. The other clutches I personally use in my DSM are the Clutchmaster series. I have an FX200 in my 3g and it's by far the best clutch I've ever had. I have an FX300 in my 90 AWD and 98 GSX and love them in each as well.

Tranny fluid- Redline tranny fluids are great, little more pricey, but great fluids.

Belts- Like stated any autoparts store belts will suit your needs fine, unless you plan on doing a relocation. Fuel filter and starter etc just go autoparts store.
 
Again. I didn't come up with this silly crap.

I think it was a vendor describing to me the fidanza setups. 1.4, 2.3, 3.2, 4.1 if I remember them correctly. It was either Modern Performance or Howell, when I was back in the neon game

Besides, I am pretty sure that any performance shop that doesn't understand the dsm would try to get him into an act 2600 full face sprung.

But yes, I agree the OP will most likely be good with a 2100.
 
OMFG i hate that so bad... i go ask someone what they done to their car.... stage this this... stage that that all over the place. When i finally was so tired of that i told him, go find a reputable parts seller and find anything they sell that they have graded in stages. We are no longer friends.

To the OP: Almost all that stuff is pretty much good to get at advanced/auto zone... EXCEPT... dont get your transmission gear oil there. Our transmission use specifcally GL-4 gear oil. Granted on the bottle of a GL-5 fluid, it ways meets and exceeds GL-4 leading you to think its ok to use it, but GL5 has additive in it that eat away at the yellow metals in out trans. As far as i know... there isnt a single GL-4 fluid i can find where i am at, at any customer autopart store around here. I have to go to a performence shop to get just the first thing that work.

Reqardless... Redline is good stuff... and do your rear diff and xfer case too...
2.9qts of MT-90 GL4 (75w90) in your trans
0.5qts of MT-90 GL4 (75w90) in your xfer case
0.9qts of MT-90 GL5 (75w90) in your rear diff

Some may say to add a qt of redline shockproof light or heavy to your trans to replace 1qt of MT90. I dont perfer it. Its personal opinion... lets not turn this into what comination is better... there are plenty of threads on that.

it wil cost you 60 bucks but its one of the most neglected maintnance done
 
Some may say to add a qt of redline shockproof light or heavy to your trans to replace 1qt of MT90. I dont perfer it. Its personal opinion... lets not turn this into what comination is better... there are plenty of threads on that.

it wil cost you 60 bucks but its one of the most neglected maintnance done

Don't use shockproof in the transmission, use either MTL or MT90. The shockproof is best left for the transfer case and rear diff if applicable.
 
Thanks everyone..

The comment about the BPR6s vs the 7s... I forgot to mention that the car has an evo3 big 16g. Would that constitute the need for 7s over 6s?

I apologize.. I will update my info as well.. I forgot all about the car having an upgraded turbo.


Update:
Also, can someone provide the part numbers for the A/C, P/S, and Alternator belts at Advance? I went to both Advance and Autozone and both claim that I only have one belt that's like 27 inches..
 
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Apparently they didn't look up the right vehicle.

Until you are running 20psi on the 16G stick with the 6es plugs. More pressure creates more heat so a colder plug is used to help prevent detonation.
 
Thanks liquid.. I'll order some 6es's.

Guilty, what's the difference between the Redline synthetic gear oil 75w90.. vs the 75w90 NS?
I'm gonna order from ExtremePSI and there are 2 versions of the gear oil.
Looks like one has a friction modifier additive.. So, which would be better for our cars?
 
Apparently they didn't look up the right vehicle.

Until you are running 20psi on the 16G stick with the 6es plugs. More pressure creates more heat so a colder plug is used to help prevent detonation.

Not to start another thread, but im running 18psi. Sometimes it will creep to 20-22, do I need to switch to 7's.
 
You really need to look at your logs and see if you are starting to show knock. Generally when you are consistently running 20+ with that turbo it would be a good idea but there are other factors to consider to. I wouldn't worry about it right now unless you need a colder plug to deal withdrew ignition from too hot of a plug.

Using too cold if a plug will foul the plug up quickly as well.
 
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