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but

10+ Year Contributor
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Apr 7, 2009
Ridgecrest, California
Hey guys i have my block completely bare and i was wondering if i could have it decked,bored .20 over,align bored without bringing the rods,pressure plate,flywheel,crank,and pistons to be balanced along with it. do i tell him what i want or will he know?
 
You'll want to take in a piston, main caps and internal studs (main and head). To do a proper align hone, the mains will neeed to be torqued down with the hardware you will be using. Boring will be properly done with the head studs torqued down. Take the piston in to get an exact clearance for the cylinder. I would take in the the crank and rods if you want them to get check out as well for sizes. Also, a rebuilt engine isn't balanced unless stated and to balance, you would need everything in the rotation.
 
So i wont technically need an align bore if it is in spec? i can just get an align hone right? and so i dont need to balance my rotating assembly? sorry im not very knowlegable on this subject.
Even if my crank is brand new they will still have to check it?
 
You need to take a piston or the machine shop can't get you the proper piston to cylinder wall clearance. Align hone is not really necessary unless you are not planning on running oem main bolts (definitely have it checked though). Take your crank, have it checked out and micro polished if it's within spec. You might as well get some arp rod bolts in which case the big end of the rods will need resizing.

*edit - If the crank is brand new, polishing is not needed.
 
To have the block bored you will need the pistons so they machinist can set the piston to wall clearance based on your anticipated power level. In order to have the mains checked you need the caps and bolts. Unless you spun a main bearing this is slim to never needed. To balance the rotating assembly you will need to take the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, pressure plate and harmonic balancer with the crank sprocket on as well. If the crank is brand new it should still be checked. Eagle is well known for letting cranks go that have a pretty big spread on the journal diameter. Easiest thing to do is to call the machinist and he will tell you what he needs.
 
Thanks for all the input guys it really helps. So I'm going to be using ross pistons and it states the piston to wall clearance in the paper that came with them. is there a more desirable clearance for 400hp? i give him the rings with the pistons also right?
 
Since my question pertains to the topic (machine shop), I'll ask it here. If that's not ok, please feel free to delete.

Will I be ok to bore the block .30 (maybe .40) over? From what one machine shop (which after having them do minor work couldn't seem to get that right) said the cylinders were already .20. The have light scoring on the walls and I don't want to take a chance putting money into a block only to have it go wrong due to this.
 
Since my question pertains to the topic (machine shop), I'll ask it here. If that's not ok, please feel free to delete.

Will I be ok to bore the block .30 (maybe .40) over? From what one machine shop (which after having them do minor work couldn't seem to get that right) said the cylinders were already .20. The have light scoring on the walls and I don't want to take a chance putting money into a block only to have it go wrong due to this.

If it is true that you are already at .20 over then you have no choice if you want a fresh block to start out with. There is nothing wrong with going to .30 over. your naked eye could barely tell the difference between stock or even .40 over. The only downside would be less heat dissipation,but also is so little it's something you wont even notice.
 
If the crank is brand new it should still be checked. Eagle is well known for letting cranks go that have a pretty big spread on the journal diameter.

Along with that, make sure the machinist takes out the oilway plugs and puts them back in with some Loctite. Eagle cranks (rarely, but happens) spit out the oilway plugs at high RPM.
 
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