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looking at a 91 tsi awd talon need opinions!

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05Nissan350z

Proven Member
155
2
Oct 23, 2013
Canton, Ohio
Heres his ad and stuff hes told me.

I have for sale my daily driver and maybe the most reliable DSM around.... It's a 1991 Eagle Talon TSI 4WD stick shift; 142k on the body; 50k..ish on motor and rebuilt turbo (ported TDO5H).
Lots of mods including: Supra side mount intercooler, Walbro 250, AN Fuel line from the pump, Aeromotive regulator, Big Brakes, New hard lines, Goodridge flexible lines, COMPLETE Energy Suspension Bushings, Excedy Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, 90 Oil Cooler, 90 cams, 2G Pistons, MLS Head Gasket, ARP studs and rod bolts, ACL bearings, 560cc Injectors, 2G MAF, Kevlar Timing Belt, EVO 3 turbine housing, No balance shafts, ported this..polished that, and more i forgot I'm sure. Many, many receipts.
No power steering, No AC, No cruise control.
Needs paint and some bodywork (there is a little rust around the rear quarters but it's not too bad), underneath is clean and straight.
Car is VERY Strong and Super Reliable. Handles tight and holds a solid 16lbs boost with zero knock (more with the right gas!). Shifts great. Doesn't burn or leak anything and gets regularly driven and maintained. Always warmed up before abuse and always cooled down before putting it away.

3G lifters
Polished crank
Zero turbo shaft play
Bored .30 over
Has a 8an fitting brazed to the oil pan and braided line to turbo.
5 degrees base, new biss oring, zero vacuum or boost leakes.
2g maf

He sent me a video of it idling and the cluster while it was running. Uploading it to youtube now will post links. He told me hed sell it to me for 2500. He has everything for the power steering but it needs a new rack and thats it. What do you guys think?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxl2uXbdl8I&feature=youtube_gdata_player
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbFgdGP9jbA&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
Not bad for $2,500 but i'd say as long as he has all receipts that prove what he has said has been done then i'd say go for it.
 
Yeah I know. I believe he said he does. These are pretty hard to find where I live. Well any turbo dsm for that especially in a 5 speed LOL. I just wanted your thoughts on it. Does the motor sound healthy to you guys?
 
Yup do a compression test. Also, after a recent incident with a car I bought, I would recommend pulling the oil filter off and dumping it out into an open top drain pan so you can see what's going on inside the motor!
 
Just my opinion but with all the mods that are already done to the car I would say if it drives good like you say its a real good deal. I got mine for 1600 but will end up putting a good 1000 more in it to make it a good DD. Its gonna be your call like Victor said tho. My '90 has the quarter panel rust slightly also but I didn't let that determine my buy. We checked out the motor, interior and drove it of course before the purchase. If you don't have to do anything to it except buy it, I would go for it. MTC.
 
Thanks guys. Hes gonna do the compression test when he puts the new seal in it. What should the numbers be so I know?
 
The important part of a compression test is that the numbers are even across the cylinder's. Also be aware there is a right way and a wrong way to do a compression test. Some steps are commonly overlooked for the most accurate results.

1G (90-94) T/E/L 1.8L NT engine
Compression ratio 9.0:1
Standard compression 185 psi
Service limit 131 psi

1G (90-94) T/E/L 2.0L NT engine
Compression ratio 9.0:1
Standard compression 192 psi
Service limit 145 psi

1G (90-94) T/E/L 2.0L Turbo engine
Compression ratio 7.8:1
Standard compression 164 psi
Service limit 121 psi

2G (95-99) T/E 2.0L NT 420A engine
Compression ratio 9.8:1
Standard compression 170-225 psi
Service limit 100 psi

2G (95-99) T/E 2.0L 4G63 Turbo engine
Compression ratio 8.5:1
Standard compression 178 psi
Service limit 133 psi

2G (95-99) T/E 2.4L NT Spyder engine
Compression ratio 9.5:1
Standard compression 192 psi
Service limit 146 psi
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The important part of a compression test is that the numbers are even across the cylinder’s. Also be aware there is a right way and a wrong way to do a compression test. Some steps are commonly overlooked for the most accurate results.

1G (90-94) T/E/L 1.8L NT engine
Compression ratio 9.0:1
Standard compression 185 psi
Service limit 131 psi

1G (90-94) T/E/L 2.0L NT engine
Compression ratio 9.0:1
Standard compression 192 psi
Service limit 145 psi

1G (90-94) T/E/L 2.0L Turbo engine
Compression ratio 7.8:1
Standard compression 164 psi
Service limit 121 psi

2G (95-99) T/E 2.0L NT 420A engine
Compression ratio 9.8:1
Standard compression 170-225 psi
Service limit 100 psi

2G (95-99) T/E 2.0L 4G63 Turbo engine
Compression ratio 8.5:1
Standard compression 178 psi
Service limit 133 psi

2G (95-99) T/E 2.4L NT Spyder engine
Compression ratio 9.5:1
Standard compression 192 psi
Service limit 146 psi

Thanks alot! I appreciate it!
 
Not too big of a fan on buying cars that are modified by other people because you don't really know how it was all done but hey if it runs and drives good why not. You need to start somewhere. Just make sure that he can prove everything that he has done to the car with receipts or what not and make sure its legit. Also make sure you test everything out on the car clutch, compression like you already have ect.. Good Luck
 
Alright yeah I dont like buying cars from people period LOL. He said hes going to do the compression test and is going to send me numbers tomorrow. Ill post them up and see if they're good and ill go from there!
 
The numbers were cold car wasnt driven today except into the garage. Are they good?

Well if those are good #s ill be hopefully going tonight to take it for a drive and then ill be driving it home. Fingers crossed. Is there anyway to get around those stupid seatbelts In these?

Im going today to take it for a test drive and if I like it ill be takin it home :). Ill throw some pics up of it too if I do
 
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