Resolved Little to no boost on new turbo

[Type1DSMr]

I've recently installed a rebuilt Evo 3 16g by JusMX141 along with several upgrades, and I can't build boost at all in the 3k rpms or only 7psi in the 4k rpms. I've done several blts with only a few small leaks founded and fixed. Around 15-20psi on test there is a whine sound around the turbo. I've verified oil going to the turbo from the ofh, fresh compression test 180,175,170,175, dialed in new FIC 1100cc high z injectors, checked the gasket between the manifold to turbo it's good, checked the turbo zero shaft play, and even dropped the downpipe to check to see if it was collapsed. Everything checks out good, but is there anything I'm missing? Would the open dump o2 housing cause this because I thought it would help with boost creep. Honestly, I'm stumped and I hope the new turbo isn't shot already. Here's an idle log with the new injectors, so you can see my setting.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Boost leak test! Where are you feeding oil from and is it correct pressure for the evo3. Exhausts leak possible. Have you checked the wastegate for proper function? Are you using a mbc or ebc?

 

[Type1DSMr]

Boost leak test! Where are you feeding oil from and is it correct pressure for the evo3. Exhausts leak possible. Have you checked the wastegate for proper function? Are you using a mbc or ebc?

I've done many blts but will continue to do more. Oil feed from housing and yes correct line that JusMX sent me same as the one that will on my 14b, but I still changed it. New gaskets on the manifold and retorque the bolts down. Haven't checked the waste gate yet. Will try without the vacuum line and no MBC hooked up. Running waste gate to j pipe.

 

[Type1DSMr]

I switched out the open dump o2 for a recirculation one; no change except got rid of the whine during a boost leak test. Switched out the wastegate again no change, tried a MBC no change. I just did another boost leak test and found zero leaks at 25 psi took 5 minutes to zero out. When I had o2 housing off, the turbo looked good spun freely, wastegate flapper moves fine. I also tried to remove the vacuum line from the wastegate and got zero boost. I can still hear bov release at 0 psi and up to the 7psi that I barely get.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Did you test the wastegate to see if it holds anything? Also test the bov to see if it holds as well? Sounds maybe like your wg isn't working at all.

 

[Type1DSMr]

Did you test the wastegate to see if it's holds anything? Also test the bov to see if it holds as well? Sounds maybe like your wg isn't working at all.

Do I shoot 12 psi into the wastegate port? I can pull the arm and the spring feels tight. I soon as I can get one of the those fp waste gates off the turbo, I'll try that but those are one there tight. Also how do I test the bov?

 

[Dsmkauai]

Use a vaccum pump (mighty vac) and test the actuator with it. You will be able to see when it's opening or not. This will really help rule it out. Test the bov in a similar fashion. You can see with the pump how it holds and blows open (at what psi). What's bov do you have by the way? Did you try running the vac line off the wg to the boost source your using and see if that builds anything?

 

[Type1DSMr]

I have a ngr bov that I got last sale they had. Maybe 3k mIles on it and I ran my vacuum line from the wastegate to the j pipe, but I tried a boost controller as well (hallman).

 

[Dsmkauai]

Have you adjusted the ngr properly? Sounds like it's not and just blowing open. This will cause issues for sure. It's either one or the other wg or Bov.

 

[Type1DSMr]

Have you adjusted the ngr properly? Sounds like it's not and just blowing open. This will cause issues for sure. It's either one or the other wg or Bov.

Yes, it's tight same as when I had my 14b on, but I can try to loosen it up.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Another option but be extremely carful is to wire the wg shut and see if you can make boost. Be extremely carful if you do this cuz if it makes boost it will go to the max. Just take it slow and see if it even builds, and don't go wot.

 

[JusMX141]

Whining on a new j-pipe style turbo would indicate a boost leak close to the compressor cover; normally at the j-pipe flange.

Extreme lag is normally indicative of a pressure loss on the turbine side, or extreme exhaust restriction. I had a muffler core break away from the body eariler this spring and the car felt like a non-turbo. Make sure the wastegate flapper is sealed tightly against the housing, that the turbo didn't get dropped during or after shipping which may have crushed the wastegate actuator and caused it to hang open. You'd be able to hear this through an open dump, however...it would sound like a permanent exhaust leak.

 

[Type1DSMr]

Whining on a new j-pipe style turbo would indicate a boost leak close to the compressor cover; normally at the j-pipe flange.

Extreme lag is normally indicative of a pressure loss on the turbine side, or extreme exhaust restriction. I had a muffler core break away from the body eariler this spring and the car felt like a non-turbo. Make sure the wastegate flapper is sealed tightly against the housing, that the turbo didn't get dropped during or after shipping which may have crushed the wastegate actuator and caused it to hang open. You'd be able to hear this through an open dump, however...it would sound like a permanent exhaust leak.

When I switched to a recirc o2 housing the whine went away during the boost leak test. Also when I installed the j pipe I used that gasket you included and some rtv, so I have zero leaks at the j pipe. I've done several blts and it holds very steady. I had a leak at the downpipe to the exhaust when I took it off, but I've since replaced the gasket. The turbo wasn't dropped in possession and nothing looks crushed or marked up.

 

[Type1DSMr]

Finally was able to hit 15psi of boost. I changed the 6 ply turbo to manifold gasket for a solid metal gasket, and added some more washers in between the wastegate and turbo to pull the flapper tightly shut. I'm not sure which one helped because the 6ply gasket showed no signs of leaking zero black soot on it. I still haven't tried the MHI wastegate either, it's just some generic wastegate.

 

[JusMX141]

If the actuator is adjustable, you can always add a little more tension instead of putting washers under the towers. Although, I'm a bit confused how swapping to a recirculated o2 housing made a noise go away which was previously-heard during a boost leak test.

Most-important thing is to make sure the flapper is 100% closed and the actuator isn't defective or letting the flapper hang open a bit. I've even had even near-new defective actuators pop up literally one pull to the next on my own vehicles over the years- so it's definitely possible, regardless of the actuator's age or origin.

 

[Type1DSMr]

If the actuator is adjustable, you can always add a little more tension instead of putting washers under the towers. Although, I'm a bit confused how swapping to a recirculated o2 housing made a noise go away which was previously-heard during a boost leak test.

Most-important thing is to make sure the flapper is 100% closed and the actuator isn't defective or letting the flapper hang open a bit. I've even had even near-new defective actuators pop up literally one pull to the next on my own vehicles over the years- so it's definitely possible, regardless of the actuator's age or origin.

The only thing I can think of is the MHI wastegate didn't seal the flapper and air was leaking out during the boost leak test. However, I used the other wastegate with the recirculated o2 with the same gaskets and same tightness of bolts and got no sound. Too many variables to know the exact cause. I will try the MHI wastegate tomorrow and see what the results are. Hopefully, that will narrow it down to either the actuator or the gasket. I will be surprised if it is the 6ply gasket because I've always had good luck with them.