Lining up timing belt...

[JohnnyPC1]

Hey fellas!

Thanks for all the help on my last issue with a faulty ECU.

Right now I'm going through the procedures to replace the timing belts on another car I have, a 91 auto GSX. I never really ran the thing when I bought it since it was towed to my place. Basically all I've driven it has been up and down the driveway to move it out of the way. I'm finding that it appears the timing belts were not lined up last time they were installed.

Having the cam gears lined up, the crank sprocket lined up and the oil pump close to lined up the balance shaft will not line up. I've rotated the whole assmebly through more than 6 turns like they mention in the vfaq and there is never an occasion that they all line up...so I'm suspecting the belts were installed improperly in the first place.

No worries I figure since I'll just line them all up when I install the new parts right? I mean, why do they make such a big deal in the vfaqs about getting everything lined up prior to disassembly. Wouldn't it just be more straight forward to get the timing belts off in any way, shape or form and then line things up afterwards? Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the name of the game just to end up having all the marks pointing at their appropriate notches? Then install the belts and go through tensioning procedures?

Your input will come highly valued!!!

 

[steve]

No worries I figure since I'll just line them all up when I install the new parts right? I mean, why do they make such a big deal in the vfaqs about getting everything lined up prior to disassembly. Wouldn't it just be more straight forward to get the timing belts off in any way, shape or form and then line things up afterwards? Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the name of the game just to end up having all the marks pointing at their appropriate notches? Then install the belts and go through tensioning procedures?

It's assumed in the VFAQ that they will align and by turning the engine over until the do makes it easier to get everything lined back up. Since yours don't you will just need to make sure on install to get everything timed proper and in phase assuming you retain the balance shafts. Don't take the timing belt off before cracking the crank pulley loose. It you wind up having to use the bump the starter method you don't want the crank independent of the valve train when you do it.

The only tricky part (other than setting the belt preload tension) is making sure that the lower balance shaft is in the proper phase. Because it's driven off the oil pump gears it can have the mark aligned and be 180 out of phase. IIRC the oil pump gears cause a 3:1 reduction which is why it can take up to 6 turns of the crank to get everything lined up and in phase if the belts are on correctly. The VFAQ gives the information you need to make sure that BS is correct when you go to put the new belt on.

Depending on how many miles are on the engine you might want to change the water pump to avoid having to change it between 60k services and having to get another TB.
It should be changed every second timing belt (120k, 240k...) That is also a good time to change the various seals on the front side of the engine. The oil pump with regular oil changes and no failure of the lower balance shaft bearings looks like it will last to at least 180k. Mine was still well within spec as 120k. If you do keep the balance shafts I'm starting to think 120k might be a good time to replace their bearings based on the number of reported failures after 120k. I just took the lower out and disconnected the upper. That makes a very noticable difference in how fast the engine revs.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

Steve