Lightened Flywheel cause my stalling?

[steve]

Um... the clutch isn't part of the ECU circuit, is it?

Nope, not unless you run a three stage Stutterbox and then only for the NLTS test.

Steve

 

[Ludachris]

Nope, not unless you run a three stage Stutterbox and then only for the NLTS test.

Steve

So the fact that I have the stutterbox mod burned in my chip yet not actually wired wouldn't affect anything, would it?

 

[Ludachris]

Also if you have an optical CAS swap it for a hall effect.... I had better results with the hall effect one...

Not sure I understand this one - can you explain.

 

[MNGSX]

It reads timing events a little crisper... Ever see 2g swaps get misfire CEL's etc with swaps..?

The black lid has an output wave with sharper breaks. An HE sensor puts out 1's and 0's with less static...
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

There are three types of cam angle sensor that are known to work. The early years (89-92) have a metal green/gray cover, use a flat rotating disk with slots, and an optical sensor. The later year sensor (93-94) has a black plastic cover, uses curved metal plates that rotate through a hall-effect sensor. The hall effect sensor is physically similar to the technology used in the 95-96 cam and crank sensors. Theoretically the hall effect sensor is higher resolution. They all work.

The black lid works the best... Mitsu would'nt change a part for nothing.

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It's one place you can improve how well the ECU sees what is going on...

I'd try a different MAF too... What diameter are you running..?

 

[steve]

So the fact that I have the stutterbox mod burned in my chip yet not actually wired wouldn't affect anything, would it?

It wouldn't cause the problems your describing. Without the clutch wire connected to the Park-Neutral input the stutterbox and NLTS won't work. The pin is still grounded as it came, right?

Steve

 

[Ludachris]

It reads timing events a little crisper... Ever see 2g swaps get misfire CEL's etc with swaps..?

The black lid has an output wave with sharper breaks. An HE sensor puts out 1's and 0's with less static...
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm


The black lid works the best... Mitsu would'nt change a part for nothing.

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It's one place you can improve how well the ECU sees what is going on...

I'd try a different MAF too... What diameter are you running..?

Thanks for explaining. I'm running a brand new 3" MAF.

 

[Ludachris]

It wouldn't cause the problems your describing. Without the clutch wire connected to the Park-Neutral input the stutterbox and NLTS won't work. The pin is still grounded as it came, right?

Steve

Yeah, the mod wasn't performed at all - nothing was touched in that regard.

 

[MNGSX]

Did you descreen the MAF or not?

The best place for info on problems with the sensor alone is a LS1 forum...

I know people who have had different experiences with the sensors. some put on aftermarket high flow ends, others descreen the stock ends.. With the LS1 cars they sometimes gain power but w/o the screen it can read lazy..

If you still have the honeycomb on it

 

[Ludachris]

Did you descreen the MAF or not?

The best place for info on problems with the sensor alone is a LS1 forum...

I know people who have had different experiences with the sensors. some put on aftermarket high flow ends, others descreen the stock ends.. With the LS1 cars they sometimes gain power but w/o the screen it can read lazy..

If you still have the honeycomb on it

Yeah, a buddy of mine is a big LT1 guy and he suggested I leave the screens alone. I didn't take anything off of the MAF. It's brand new from FullThrottleSpeed.

My friend also suspected the MAF might be acting up, as they tend to be finicky. He was wondering if the turbo wasn't building a little boost when revving (and low speeds) and is causing me some trouble. Something about the throttle plate closing and the air is forced back the other direction through the MAF... or something like that.

Also, the stock BOV I have on isn't crushed, and I know it's opening under vaccuum. So maybe when it's opening up or closing, it's doing something to the readings? I don't know, I guess I'm reaching here...

 

[MNGSX]

I think it may be the BOV....


I dont think a 1g BOV vents enough CFM for your app even crushed.

You could be surging back and forth in the intake pipe which flicks flow back and forth thru the MAF....

Borrow a Big BOV on a 1g adapter or something.. Let me know...

I'm kind of on this one when I red your mod list... What do I win if I'm right?

Get at min greddy s but a tial is obviously the best of all BOV's

Dial in the spring pressure right. The least needed to prevent fluttering. You want a BOV to blow off quick because its easier on the turbo and preserves spool.... It doe'nt fool with blow thru's too..

 

[HiFi TSi]

I thought I'd chime in here as I am experiencing the same crap with my car. I have a built 2.0 wo balance shafts and a fidanza, so my whole rotating assembly is very light. I have the same stalling issues as you do which makes the car no fun or safe to drive. I've been trying to adjust things like everyone else says and I'm clueless because nothing works. As for the BOV comment, I'm running a greddy type s and that doesn't seem to be a factor like you're describing. Then again I am using a 2g mas and not the GM blow-thru. So, if I come across anything I'll let keep you posted, but I'm in the same boat as you, do I put a stock one back on or not?

 

[93DE-EZ-UM]

Chris,

I know this thread is very old but I like to know what you did to solve your stalling issue? I have lighten flywheel and balance shaft removed also. The problem started when these 2 mods got done.

Thanks in advance.

Newey

 

[4pistons]

How light the rotating assembly has no effect on stalling. Think about it... the ECU can control an engine at 7000 rpm but loses it at 1000????

The ECU monitors and controls engine RPM many times a second and can make whatever slight adjustments may need to to be made well before there's any loss of rpm.

I've had my light Fidanza, and BS removed for years and I've never had a stalling issue even with a hacked MAF, stock CAS, and crushed BOV.

Rick - '91 GSX

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

It may sound stupid but check the orientation of the beam inside the maf (ie, is it vertical or horizontal). They are picky when it comes to being aligned.

 

[flinguist]

I know this is old, but I'd like to provide some info. on how I solved my stalling problem. I was having the exact same problem, tried turning up the idle, adjusting the BISS to set up the ISC correctly. Didn't work. I decided to change my HKS SSQV (recirced) because I didn't like the compressor surge I was getting with it. I installed a Synapse BOV and my surge was gone, along with the stalling problem. I think the BOV was producing a pressure wave that made the MAF cause the stalling problem.