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DaytonDsm

10+ Year Contributor
79
0
Jun 19, 2011
Kettering, Ohio
Alright, I got the car for 800 bucks. The guy said the tps was bad when I got the car. I got the car at night and didn't really give it a good look over but what I seen was that the throttle body was missing 2 bolts on the bottom and the tps bottom screw was missing. I drove the car home with it barely moving which was fun. Now after I replaced the TPS, IAC, spark plugs (NGK copper) and new oil and oil filter. New intector o-rings, fuel filter and new air filter for my air intake. The car runs better now and gets me to a to b. The fuel reader does not work but I keep 20 bucks in it every week and only drive about 60 to 100 miles a week. I don't know if the previous owner ran it out of gas or not alot but recently after driving it for 5 to 10 minutes it goes into a limp mode. First it will buck back and fourth if I give it more than a quater throttle. Then after about 30 minutes of driving it will start having a horrible horrible miss and stutter and shutter. A buddy of mine says it sounds like a subaru. Before I replace any more parts on the car I want to know what I should replace next that would be biased on your guys opinions. So any help at all?
 
Timing/belt conditions, vacuum leaks, ECU, correct TPS settings, does the MAS/Temp Sensor/any sensors work, fuel pump/filter ... kinda basic stuff for an 4G63 7bolt (crankwalking?) NT .. to name a few.

How many miles on the thing?

Good luck - DSM
 
its a 6 bolt, and new timing belt, no vaccum leaks, took the ecu out and nothing looks to be wrong with it. Has a new temp sensor. I'm not sure of the maf, and I don't know how to test it. The tps is at 10% now. and only 98k miles.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
...and with the new IAC, did you reset the IAC so the BISS screw can be adjusted correctly?

MAF - you test with a VOM across pins 6 and 8 where the resistance should be between3 to 5Kohms at air temperature.

TPS is a stinker to get set right, but with Throttle plate closed, resistance across 1 and 4 should be around 3.5kohms.

And plugs gapped at .044 being the NGK BPR6ES-11 plugs?
 
plug gap should be between .028-.032
He's an NT thus .044 gap is needed.

People needs to quit thinking that EVERYONE who posts on here HAS an effing turbo (brother, what a mindset a lot have - that a Mitsu/Eagle/Laser is a turbo vehicle..they also made non-turbos as well).

On resetting the IAC, On the test terminal port down next to the fuse block, you ground No.10 pin. This resets the IAC and then you adjust the idle with a screwdriver on the BISS screw. You do the wire connection first, then crank on the motor and adjust the idle with the BISS screw until idle is at 750rpm.

good luck-DSM
 
Is there a write up on resetting the iac with pictures because I am having a hard time following you. I'm not mechanically inclined but I'm not all knowing either.
 
Not to doubt your word, but now curious on my end:

Look down at the crank pulley and look at the edge of the oil pan behind the pulley: If the lip of the pan goes straight across, it's a 6 bolt, but if the lip of the pan curves downward and below that curve, the pan has a fold in the middle, it's a 7 bolt.

thx and good luck - DSM
 
For the most part DSM 1G90 hit everything, you might also try your fuel pump or injectors. A gasoline motor needs 3 basic things to run, air, fuel, and spark. If you've replaced the spark plugs and properly gapped those you should be fine. Also check that your wires are good, look into both ends ( the end that attaches to the coil and the end that goes into the head and onto the spark plug), make sure your coil itself is in good working condition. Make sure your actual throttle body itself is clean and the gasket is intact. DSM1G90 hit everything else on the air side. I highly recommend testing that throttle position sensor, when those go out they make a huge mess, but when they're not installed properly they can still cause a mess. Hope this helps, Good Luck.
 
Two things then: he says a 6 bolt, then 1) - his ply is an early 92. or, a 6 bolt was put in prior to his friend getting it.

On the sticker, which is located on the driver's door "C" pillar, is the manufacturer's ID. On the upper right is the Month and Year built.

Also, in the VIN, the last 8 digits, do they begin with "NE" or "PE"? "NE" designates the 1992 year builds. "PE" designates the 1993 builds.

(thx for the compliments ... ) - DSM
 
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