LC2 Wideband - Stalling

[TurboTesh]

Hi guys; yes Ive searched and read all the topics related to LC2 install, but most deal with ECMlink sim.

Im running a 99 with Wideband O2 in stock front location; and I believe I have it hooked up right.

Red = Power
Black = Ground;
Yellow = Wideband Output - I hooked to gauge and will soon to rear O2 pin for logging.
Brown = Narrowband - I replaced pin 76 with the narrowband sim from the brown wire. Is this correct?

What i'm seeing:
1) Key on, wideband shows 22.4
2) Car on, wideband drops to 7.5 ish
3) Car runs for about 5-10 seconds smooth and then bogs down.

Is my wiring wrong? or is there something else screwed up after my turbo swap, timing belt, emissions delete and wideband install?

I get codes for O2 sensor heater circuit, how do I make that go away? Im sure its all related. I also get an emissions EGR code, but thats because i havent turned the code off after the delete.


Thanks in advance! I cant wait to be spooling again!

* PS compression is 176-178 across the board, no boost leaks up to 20 psi, mechanical timing is spot on. Sensors were all functioning prior to the work ive done.

 

[SasaniFab]

you are running ecm link?

 

[A Sharp]

An improperly installed o2 sensor shouldn't prevent the car from running. The ecu would just stay in open loop and ignore data from the sensor.

 

[TurboTesh]

I am not running ECMlink. That's why I said I've searched, but all the info is for ECMlink. I'm using the 99 ecu with evoscan/ecuflash.

To your point sharp... thats what I thought. Ive been able to run cars okay with o2 sensors or even mafs unplugged before in idle or very low throttle conditions.

Any idea what to check first? If my wideband is reading accurately at 7.5, then im pig rich somehow and choking it with fuel.
Fuel pressure shows 43.5 on the AFPR gauge though.

 

[TurboTesh]

I forgot I DID modify my wiring harness loom by the left rad support with a drill bit... I was so pissed. ( I had it ziptied away, but it snapped and I didnt see that it had moved back in its originally position more or less)

I soldered all wires and wrapped them back up. Everything works fine other than this stuttering. One thing I didnt think would be an issue, but might be... is that the drill bit took a chunk, maybe 1/3rd of the copper out of an alternator wire (thick white wire. I figured it would still be okay and wrapped i up without cutting and soldering again. I didnt think it would matter, but maybe more is missing than I thought? Could low current from the alternator cause this stumbling?

 

[A Sharp]

I highly doubt a partially cut alternator wire would do anything. You could check the voltage at the battery terminals with the car ruining to verify this.

To see if it's actually running stupid rich, check the plugs or sniff the exhaust while it's running. If it smells like gas, you know it's rich.

 

[TurboTesh]

Side note. Since I hadnt started anything but the front mount, the battery was still connected -.- ... so I blew about 7 fuses, which I replaced. Any chance I damaged the ECU? My downpipe isnt 100% connected , so it just smells like fumes/gas.

I'll definitely check plugs in the morning.

 

[Vegas Smith]

It sounds like you may have a wiring problem as 7.5 means 0 volts.

 

[TurboTesh]

That's what I was thinking. any idea where that problem could stem from? Maybe my ground is bad? Im terrible with electrical...

 

[Vegas Smith]

I'm actually dealing with a similar issue with my new lc2 right now so I'll be keeping an eye out on this thread. I have soldered all my wires perfectly (I'm sure). I even setup the relay that most people skip and I'm still getting weird readings. I think my calibration is not working somehow. It seems like yours is calibrated.