Resolved 1G - L19 Rod Bolt stretch

[DSMPT]

I see. I did drill them out with a 3/16s drill bit. It's possible that it could be slightly off. I also know I did some test drills on my OEM bearings and it was MUCH much worse offset than the ACL bearings that are in there now.

So what might be your suggestion then? I don't necessarily trust any local shops around here to drill them for the dowel. Is there a good way to check if the bearings are drilled straight?

The best would be to get another rod bearing set and drill straight in the right angle or send it to R&R and ask them to do it. But maybe adjusting the hole position may work, you should ask Mike at R&R for advice first, that would be the safest.
The pin hole is for oil jet on OEM rods, so OEM and ACL should have it in the same position. I think your case is what I said above. Maybe you accidentally changed the angle while you were drilling by holding it by hand. IIRC the angle was around 4~5 degree. I have done it by a hand drill but holding it by a bench vise and the tool I showed you in your another post.

 

[bastarddsm]

I've just done one bolt at a time. You can snug the bolt up a little bit so the cap is seated without really stretching it. I'm saying like 3-4ft*lbs.

 

[Anfurnyy]

So I'll be reaching out to R&R again tomorrow to send off my std size bearings if they'll drill them for me.

I have some +.001 oversized ACLS in there now. I've been working on getting some bearing clearances this weekend and I found that it seems like the bearings are out of round? I looked this up and it sounds like it's due to over torquing the rod bolts. I DID torque them to 75 ft lbs to check the clearances.. as R&R states they do. Here's my picture of my Weiner rod and my measurements.

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The silver lining is that with std bearings it seems like my measurements would fall between .0025-.0030 which is where I think I'd like them at for my build minus cylinder 4. No clue what the hell happened there. Obviously when I get the standard bearing size back I will remeasure Again.

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[DSMPT]

So were those numbers measured with another set of bearings that have the hole in the correct position? If so, probably it's not a problem. With bearings, it's not perfectly round is normal. It should slightly have a oval-ish shape horizontally, if the bearing are equally crushed. But my concern was as I mentioned above, your bearings had the hole in off position. So which means possibly the bearings are not evenly crushed because one side crush is insufficient and other side is excessive. Or maybe the inside shape after torqued is not as it should anymore. It won't be a concern anymore if you will use another set of bearings with the hole in the correct position though.

 

[Anfurnyy]

So were those numbers measured with another set of bearings that have the hole in the correct position? If so, probably it's not a problem. With bearings, it's not perfectly round is normal. It should slightly have a oval-ish shape horizontally, if the bearing are equally crushed. But my concern was as I mentioned above, your bearings had the hole in off position. So which means possibly the bearings are not evenly crushed because one side crush is insufficient and other side is excessive. Or maybe the inside shape after torqued is not as it should anymore. It won't be a concern anymore if you will use another set of bearings with the hole in the correct position though.

These are the same bearings as before. I guess I'm having a hard time seeing where you see that the drilled part of the bearing is in the wrong position? Others I've talked to have said that the bearings indeed do not sit flush with where the cap meets the rod. I'm not denying that there's a possibility that the drilled part could be at the wrong angle, I'm just having a hard time seeing it. One side seems to sit below where the cap and rod meet, and the other side slightly higher. Here is a picture of where the bearings meet, after fully torqued.

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[Anfurnyy]

So were those numbers measured with another set of bearings that have the hole in the correct position? If so, probably it's not a problem. With bearings, it's not perfectly round is normal. It should slightly have a oval-ish shape horizontally, if the bearing are equally crushed. But my concern was as I mentioned above, your bearings had the hole in off position. So which means possibly the bearings are not evenly crushed because one side crush is insufficient and other side is excessive. Or maybe the inside shape after torqued is not as it should anymore. It won't be a concern anymore if you will use another set of bearings with the hole in the correct position though.

I also found this in another post. His drilled hole looks to be slightly out of the oil Jet hole on the bearing. Is this the correct way? If it is then that would likely be my problem as I just drilled directly into the oil Jet hole.

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My hole

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[DSMPT]

Maybe those pics below tell you better what I am concerned. (You should confirm it with R&R if it would affect or not)
I guessed maybe the hole on your bearing is like the red in the 1st pic. And after torqued becomes like the 2nd pic. The green is as it should.

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[Anfurnyy]

Maybe those pics below tell you better what I am concerned. (You should confirm it with R&R if it would affect or not)
I guessed maybe the hole on your bearing is like the red in the 1st pic. And after torqued becomes like the 2nd pic. The green is as it should.

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Okay after doing some research I've learned about bearing eccentricity. Which is to keep a small "pocket" of oil around the parting line of the caps/bearings to help lubricate AS WELL as when centrifugal load is placed in the cap, the bearing becomes more round, or so I read.

My Major concern is is the parting line of the bearing and the parting line of the rod cap supposed to be even? I've drawn a diagram if how mine sit.
Black is the rod journal
Red is the bearing
Green is the dowel

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Now this one, even if the bearing doesn't sit perfect with the parting line of the rod, would it just case the bearing inside the rod to rotate so they would meet perfectly? Would this effect the radial pressure like I think you are stating? I've read in a forum here and others have told me that the parting lines aren't supposed to line up on aluminum rod motors but I don't know where this information comes from.

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[DSMPT]

In general like with steel rods, yes, it should be even after torquing. Very slightly above the parting line before torquing, that's the crush height. Our rod bearings have a protrusion on back side as anti-rotation. So usually that side can't slide into other side (So bearings don't slide like your 2nd diagram). But with aluminum rods, the things may be a bit different. IIRC grooves are cut for the protrusion on both side. If so, the bearing parting lines are slightly off from the rod parting lines shouldn't be a problem. The point is I am not sure how much off is acceptable though.
My little concern is like I explained in the last post that after torquing, the ID becomes very slightly oval shape, it's because the middle part of bearing is slightly thicker in general and that is making the oval shape, and it's designed like that. So if the bearing parting lines are off, that thicker part position would be also slightly off. Maybe this wouldn't affect much, in that case you are probably good to go. But I would ask R&R opinion before starting to assemble. That's what I was trying to say in the last post.

 

[Anfurnyy]

In general like with steel rods, yes, it should be even after torquing. Very slightly above the parting line before torquing, that's the crush height. Our rod bearings have a protrusion on back side as anti-rotation. So usually that side can't slide into other side (So bearings don't slide like your 2nd diagram). But with aluminum rods, the things may be a bit different. IIRC grooves are cut for the protrusion on both side. If so, the bearing parting lines are slightly off from the rod parting lines shouldn't be a problem. The point is I am not sure how much off is acceptable though.
My little concern is like I explained in the last post that after torquing, the ID becomes very slightly oval shape, it's because the middle part of bearing is slightly thicker in general and that is making the oval shape, and it's designed like that. So if the bearing parting lines are off, that thicker part position would be also slightly off. Maybe this wouldn't affect much, in that case you are probably good to go. But I would ask R&R opinion before starting to assemble. That's what I was trying to say in the last post.

Got it. Now I really understand. I'll be giving them a call this week to find out

 

[Anfurnyy]

So i emailed Mike at R&R and here is our conversation.
Ultimately i bought new rod bearings both +.001 and standard size and im going to send him one rod and both sets of bearings to be drilled.

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[DSMPT]

So i emailed Mike at R&R and here is our conversation.
Ultimately i bought new rod bearings both +.001 and standard size and im going to send him one rod and both sets of bearings to be drilled.

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Yeah that's a good decision, the safest way to go. Probably Mike would figure out the issue.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Just as a follow up to tie up loose ends on this post. I sent both bearing sets to Mike @ R&R and had him drill out both sets. When i called and talked to him on the phone about the bearing offset in the cap he didnt seem concerned one bit. He said "One side looks like it sticks out passed the parting line maybe 5 thousandths, but its nothing to worry about.

I measured the bearings with the bolts torqued in 3 equal increments to 75ft/lbs as he does using 50w oil, targeting a .0035" clearance. Rods, bearings are all installed in the block with no binding issues, and spinning freely! Thanks for anyone that helped out!