Knocking Sound any ideas?

[SBstar]

Wow, yeah! Looks like they all broke off for some reason and the knocking you heard was probably them clanking around in the bottom of the motor. I'd check the walls of the cylinders for scuffs. The rest of the metal in the bottom of your pan might be the rest of the "tubes" that were demolished. I'd still check your bearings just in case, but it looks like those might have been it.

 

[project98dsm]

Updates, something, anything?

 

[mattasi]

HAHA, ok some updates.

I got the rod caps off, and cylinder #4 has a spun bearing, it's all chewed up. It's really anoying me because I was not low on oil at all, I checked it before and after I drove. So still not sure why it spun the bearing...

So I'm in the process of taking everything off the car to drop the motor and transmission. I think I am going to drop the motor out the bottom of the car, without a car lift .. I am going to take the longblock to English Racing and let them do their thing with the longblock. I will also be having my stock transmission build by Sheppard Transmissions, I am thinking a Stage 3 but not fully sure yet.

My 6-puck ACT clutch assembly only has like 10k miles on it, but sence I will have a new motor and trans I plan to buy a new clutch assembly, because I will not want to take all this apart again anytime soon to replace a clutch.

I still need to find a good mitsubishi 20g turbo rebuild kit, my turbo has no shaft play but I want to clean it out and replace the bearings because maybe metal chips got in there from the oil going threw the turbo.

I have told myself from the day that I bought the car, that if the motor ever had to come out of the car that I would repaint the whole engine bay. So I will need to start working on that after the motor is out and being worked on. I want to repaint it in the same stock silver color.

Depending on time/money, I want to put in a rebuilt steering rack, simply because it will be a lot easier to replace now, with no motor in the way.

On some of my last ECM logs I was watching the coolant temps and they stay around 210 degrees. So to help the new motor out I will be removing the A/C system. I didn't really want to take it out but I barly use it and it will help the car stay a lot cooler without the huge condenser in front of the radiator. I will keep all the A/C stuff stored in a box in case I decide I want it back later...

 

[2slow4now]

That sounds like a plan. You could just put in a cooler thermostat so it opens sooner to help with cooling. Send Justin http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/members/jusmx141-60709.html a pm about your turbo he could probably help you out with whatever you need.

 

[mattasi]

I asked Justin and he recommend Kamak Dynamics rebuild kit. I called the number on the website and it wouldn't connect me with them. And my email got send back to me, it said something about the message permanly failing so I think they out of business or something like that.. IDK

I thought about the cooler thermostat, but from what I have read, that is a band aid fix. If I drove it on a long enough trip, it would get back up to the 210 degree temperature range.

 

[dsmjunk]

i know this thread is old but i have the same problem but i cant get my video to up load.But i took my valve cover off and it got louder. sounds like a rod knock but not sure.

 

[mattasi]

You took the valve cover off with the car running? I would suggest to take off that oil pan and look for metal shavings.

 

[jimbob_843]

Im building up my 6 bolt today and once i installed the oil squirters and got everything torqued down, i trun her over. It turns over very nicely until the 2 and 3 pistons are at the begining of their compression stroke (upward). I believe its my oil squirter tube rubbing the inside of my pistons skirt. I am gonna find out tomorrow. So anyway whoever built the engine should have been able to feel some sort of traction while turning the motor right? Either that or they didnt touch until you spun a bearing and caused the rod and piston to travel ever so slighly further down to knock the tube.

 

[mattasi]

Im building up my 6 bolt today and once i installed the oil squirters and got everything torqued down, i trun her over. It turns over very nicely until the 2 and 3 pistons are at the begining of their compression stroke (upward). I believe its my oil squirter tube rubbing the inside of my pistons skirt. I am gonna find out tomorrow. So anyway whoever built the engine should have been able to feel some sort of traction while turning the motor right? Either that or they didnt touch until you spun a bearing and caused the rod and piston to travel ever so slighly further down to knock the tube.

My guess is that mine didn't touch untill it spun the bearing. So your last statement is true. Also don't bent the oil squirters to fit, because that will make them weak and prone to breaking later in the motor. When I had this motor rebuild I got rid of the oil squirters. You don't really need them on a build motor, and it sends more oil pressure elsewere like your bearings.

 

[urmomsaniceguy]

That's why I'm building a N/A 6 bolt block. They don't have oil squirters, which give you better oil pressure in other places.

 

[mattasi]

That's why I'm building a N/A 6 bolt block. They don't have oil squirters, which give you better oil pressure in other places.

No need to build up a N/A block JUST because they don't have oil squirters. It's very simple to block them off on a turbo block.