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ECMlink Just starting - can someone check my log?

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Canadian_CD9A

Supporting Member
1,085
859
Feb 10, 2012
Winnipeg, MB_Canada
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Yes - tiny TB leak, takes a few minutes to drop below 15 psi

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes

3). Verified base timing?
Yes

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock coil
Wire brand and Age: Some JDM aftermarket, look good
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK BPR6ES ~0.30

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: 155
Cylinder 2: 160
Cylinder 3: 160
Cylinder 4: 160

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Yes
Throttle Cable: Yes
TPS: Yes
BISS: Yes

7). Compression ratio
Stock 2g (8.5:1)

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No


10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12.6v
Car running: 14.0v

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.5
Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 650cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: Innovate LC1/XD16
Calibration Date: June 2015

13). Type of fuel
Type: Husky 94 Octane
Percent of Ethanol: 10%

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes

Hello, I just got my car running on ECMLink v3 Lite. It's a 1993 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution, so basically a 7-bolt setup, I'm running without a MAF sensor on an Omni 4-bar and GM IAT using the "2003 Evo 8 GSR mod 1" map. Setup:

Powertrain:
-Forced Performance FP68HTA turbocharger
-Ported 7cm turbine housing & 34mm flapper valve
-Holset wastegate actuator
-Forced Performance Race Manifold
-Evo III o2 housing
-A'Pexi 2.5" downpipe
-High flow catalytic converter
-A'Pexi N1 catback exhaust
-Evo I intake manifold (stock, same as Evo III intake manifold)
-ARC Intercooler & piping
-HKS-RS Intake Pipe with big K&N filter
-HKS SSQV blow-off valve, recirculated
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-FIC 650cc fuel injectors
-Sard fuel pressure regulator

Boost creeps up to around 16 psi (set to 15 psi on a Blitz SBC i-D, gain was a bit high for the run though). It won't go much lower than 14 psi because of the wastegate spring. I do want to raise the boost as far as it will go without knocking, I have to get my FIC 1000cc injectors in first though because I kissed the 80% DC at 16 psi.

I think I have the basics dialed in pretty well, can anyone critique my 3rd gear pull? I'm not quite sure how to dial in the WOT, the how-to on SD tuning was a bit vague in this regard.

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Everything you do tuning wise will incorporate that small leak at the TB. I highly recommend fixing that boost leak before spending more time on the tune.

Your Max Octane DA table needs to be tweaked. You should do your best to smooth all of those values. Everything in the lower right should be changed to your desired AFR. Right now it jumps from cell to cell from 9.9 to 10.3 or so.

You also need to smooth out the SD table. Your engine is nothing more than an air pump so the changes should be somewhat predictable. There should not be any dips or blips in the map. It should contain smooth transitions across the table.

Im guessing you did some cruise tuning but your openloop thresholds have not been changed back to the stock values. I would suggest at least putting the load values back to stock anytime you are not cruise tuning.

AFR’s above 4200 are on the right track. Everything before that is lean and the last few hundred RPM’s are rich. This points towards an SD table that needs some adjusting.
 
Thank you, I'll order up some TB seals with new injector o-rings tomorrow. I forgot to change back my threshold numbers after closed loop tuning, I just changed it back to 1.40 across the board.
Does the lb/min calculation seem right? It shows about 36 lbs/min at 7000 RPM - I have a hard time believing it's moving 75% of the compressor capacity at 16 psi. Virtual Dyno says I'm around 250whp at 16 psi, which seems quite weak but believable:

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I'll do my reading on the SD table tweaking, I'm completely in the dark about it at the moment.
 
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Virtual dyno’s and any non-standard dyno for that matter assumes a lot of variables and its only as good as the information you put into it.

Your airflow readings look to be in good shape. We assume 100% VE at or around 5500 RPMs and your airflow numbers match up really well at that point in the log. Since your airflow seems to be properly calculated, I would assume the airflow reading to be somewhat accurate.
 
Thank you again for your help.
I'm waiting to get my car back from a diff install and I've had time to review all my logs - I noticed that the IAT is always stuck at 77*. I have the ECMLink MAF>SD cable, the GM IAT selected in inputs and "Lock intake temperature and barometric pressure" is unchecked, do I need to enable the lock since I have no MAF?

Edit: Found the answer. I was looking at the logged value for "IntTemp", should have been looking at "GMIAT". Lots of silly mistakes along the way.
 
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