The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

Just bought this turbo...

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Pitbull2o08

10+ Year Contributor
88
0
Feb 7, 2009
Fayetteville, Ohio
What do you guys think? bought it off a local for a pretty good price. came with Megan Racing o2. He had the receipt, bought from Buschur in 2007. He sold it to a kid, got it back with 500 miles, he says. this fins have like, 1 or 2 knicks, dunno if it's a big deal or not. but i couldn't beat the price. check it out.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
That turbo has more than 500 miles on it; then again, mileage doesn't matter if it was well-cared for. I'd rather have a 50k-old turbo that was never abused than a 5k-old turbo that was abused regularly.

It's your word against the seller. If you're ever bored, go on eBay or Craigslist and see how many turbos are listed which have less than 5k on them, or are "freshly rebuilt" even though the turbine wheel is covered in black soot or dripping with oil.


If I've learned anything in my years of turbocharger repair it would be to not to trust anyone- half the time these turbos are removed from engines that scattered or had rod bearing failures, so even if it has 5 miles on it I'd still tear it down and put new journal bearings and seals in it at the very least. Just gives you peace of mind knowing your turbo is clean and ready for years of trouble-free service.
 
yeah, that's what i'm going to do. even find someone that can atleast do it for me while i'm at school. what do you think of the turbo though in general. Evo III 16g, correct?
 
It's an Evo III 16G, yes.

It's definitely something you could do on your own. I have a step-by-step rebuild guide for TD05H turbos in the tech article section of this site:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...303828-td05h-td06-turbo-rebuild-part-1-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...303829-td05h-td06-turbo-rebuild-part-2-a.html


I stock individual parts for these turbos at all times, and I'm always on here if you have any questions. The compressor nut has balance grinds on it, so you'll want to scribe the compressor wheel, locknut, and turbine shaft then make sure all of these marks align when the turbo is assembled and you'll be fine.

It's best to use a T-handle or a 3/8" impact gun to remove the locknut- something that applies even torque to the shaft to prevent twisting or bending the shaft. If the shaft is bent it must be replaced.
 
ok thanks so much for the help. i do have a t-handle so i won't alter the shaft. where should i buy a rebuild kit? off you or somewhere else? where do you get yours?
 
I piece together my own kits using Genuine MHI journal bearings and turbine seal with aftermarket thrust hardware. The theory here is that all of the parts which see heat or wear on a regular basis will be of the same quality as they were when the turbo was new. The thrust hardware should not see wear unless there is an oiling problem or you're running more boost than the turbo is designed for.

As long as there's no in/out play, your thrust hardware can be reused.
 
It's your word against the seller. If you're ever bored, go on eBay or Craigslist and see how many turbos are listed which have less than 5k on them, or are "freshly rebuilt" even though the turbine wheel is covered in black soot or dripping with oil.
Here's a fine example to back up this statement I made earlier:

16G turbo Mitsubishi TD05H: eBay Motors (item 220669184371 end time Sep-23-10 22:19:03 PDT)

Fresh rebuild, eh? Seems his "fresh rebuilds" differ greatly from mine:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
yeah there is NO in out shaft play. just very little side to side. How about those chipped fins? they're hardly noticeable in the pic but they are there. is that something to be worried about? do you think i can buy, like a little kit off you so i can use quality MHI parts?

This is the turbo on there now.. it's supposed to be a stock t25, but i didn't know the t25's had fins like the 16g. and i couldn't find any markings on the housing other than A/R. The fins are in really nice shape, but i'm sure i couldn't swap them into my e316g. or could i get compressor fins just by themselves from MHI?

T25?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
thanks JUSMX. so about that rebuild kit? :)
 
And another unassuming victim for jusmx to pick off LOL. It's always nice seeing you help people here every day man.
 
Even if it only has 500 miles on it, I would at least throw some new seals in there. That thing has been setting dry for 3 years.
 
Hey jusmx! I just finished my 6 bolt swap. it drives fine but the coil pack died. there was a descent amount of smoke too. how can i tell if it's from the stock t25 or from something else? i have that e316g i might need to rebuild asap to put it in. if i just bolt it up, do i still need to tune for the e316g? i don't want to up the boost or anything. just that i have it on and the smoke stops if it's the t25. the t25 has a descent amount of play too.
 
I just finished my 6 bolt swap. it drives fine but the coil pack died. there was a descent amount of smoke too. how can i tell if it's from the stock t25 or from something else?
If the turbo in question has a fair amount of shaft play, it's pretty safe to assume that's where your smoke is coming from.

i have that e316g i might need to rebuild asap to put it in. if i just bolt it up, do i still need to tune for the e316g?
You don't have to "tune" for a larger turbo, your ECU should do that automatically if all of your sensors are in working order- but you do have to "tune" for larger injectors. Larger injectors will definitely be required to push an Evo III 16G anywhere beyond stock boost levels (under 15psi) on your car.
 
If there is very minimal shaft play as you say, and no oil residue on the turbine side, I certainly wouldn't hesitate to run it.
It's amazing how durable MHI turbos are.
 
well the smoke with the t25 on the car is only at WOT, and is a blue "oil smoke." otherwise, there is no Check engine lights after the 6 bolt swap. which i never heard of.
 
If there is very minimal shaft play as you say, and no oil residue on the turbine side, I certainly wouldn't hesitate to run it.
It's amazing how durable MHI turbos are.

^^ My thoughts exactly. And don't worry about those little chips in the wheel, I ran my 20g the same way with no issues.
 
should i just bolt it on to get rid of the blue smoke issue? is it bad to drive around with it smoking at WOT like that? if it's not a big deal, i'll just drive it till i reseal the e316g. then just bolt that up and ride that stock boost until i get injectors, fuel pump.
 
You think the flapper isn't closing all the way? If so i could shim the WG.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top