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johnny racecar's fmic, who has one?

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I was wondering how everyone was routing from a stock turbo?

I have a 20g and was thinking about cutting the j and turning twards the driver side.

Or should I just leave it and just use a silicon elbow?


The piece I am talking about is circled in red.
 

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butters said:
I was wondering how everyone was routing from a stock turbo?

I have a 20g and was thinking about cutting the j and turning twards the driver side.

Or should I just leave it and just use a silicon elbow?


The piece I am talking about is circled in red.

I have an SBR 2g20g and was wondering the same thing. I think that I am going to remove the compressor housing and cut and rotate the compressor elbow/outlet 180 degrees.

Another option is to cut the elbow and us an adapter pipe to direct the outlet towards the drivers side. It would look like this:

http://www.dejontool.com/images/DSM-2g FIC/T25-Pipe.JPG
 
My friend, uncle and I today spent the whole day install the JRC core on my 98 GST with the FPBig28. Install was fairly easy with all the necessary tools, such as a welder, jigsaw (a must!!), grinder, cutter, etc.. So basically everything was there for us. I went with the shortest route using a 2.5" all steel piping, all purchased from Road Race and used about 15 to 17 T-bolts to secure all rubber hoses. Luckily we know a place here in san diego where we got out T-Bolts for $3.28 a piece! All in all, I'm very happy with the core and installation and the response from the car now is so repsonsive and feels strong. Can't really beat this deal for a intercooler setup for under $500, with the shortest route made and especially with T-bolts clamps!! :thumb:

Enjoy the pics!!
 

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more pics again.. BTW.. the other DSM'er who helped me out, will be installing the same core on a 92 galant vr-4.. So for you galant owners.. pics will be posted soon around xmas time....

The guy that has the galant goes by the SN of (Daygoerm)
 

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well... yah.. but i just want all you guys to see the install with lots of pics shown.. most post only have about like 3 to 4 pics... but i know eveyone loves to see pics and pics do tell alot and gives other peeps ideas... hope this all helps 2g owner (especially with the t28 or t25 style turbo housing), and also stay tuned for any 91 to 92 galant vr4 owners.. we'll be installling the JRC... That project will be a toughy, but we have an idea on how we going to pursue the installation...
 
yah, but didn't get a chance to drive it hard yet.. but i can feel the car is more responsive and knowing that all rubber couplers are tied down with T-bolts, I'm 100% sure of no boost leak unless something else?? but it does feel good with low to mid range power... fill you guys with more info tomorrow... thanks for the reply :thumb:
 
i'll clean up the catch can better tomorrow and clean up the car and get better full body pics.. really tired working on the car for like about 8 hours with no lunch or snacks... working on your car takes away from other stuff.. you just forget about that and enjoy working on your car.. Now I can see why peeps spend hours working on their car till like 1 or 2 in the morning.. its so addicting :laugh:
 
Haha, Look at you so exited! LOL! Looks good, just heads up for you 2G'ers.... IF YOU ARE LOWERED ON SPORTLINES or that same length of a DROP. You need to figure out your driver side IC piping a bit more. It's going to take some work, and you will be scraping all over the streets.... :thumb:
 
Could you chop that dumb elbow off of your t28 housing? Then you wouldn't have to go below that cross member.


BTW: check out the JR FMIC thread for a laugh, it's just a pissing contest between two tools arguing over tuning :rolleyes: I'm glad this thread stayed some what on-track :thumb:
 
Parts are arriving by thursday....for PROJECT VR4
 
Here is mine installed...

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nice install..

however, id really try to figure something out so the pipe doesnt sit that low.. thats awfully close to the ground.. also i assume u cant use the stock recirculating hose for the bov?

bessides that looks good.. great job
 
Okay... I've did some rework of the lower IC piping so it won't lay that low.. I got me a new Spal fan from RRE to get rid of the old fan (passenger side) and two 90* aluminum bends along with some t-bolts and couplings, I was able to reroute the piping and now, I don't have to worry about the lower IC... Here are the many pics.. enjoy :thumb:

Thanks to "BlackHalo" for the advise :thumb:

Ion

San Diego.. & now.. we are working on the galant vr4 project (Daygoerms')... Its gonna be hard to install a side to side on that.. but we got an idea.. so stay tuned for pics...
 

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Start of galant vr4 project (daygoerm's car).. We got the bumper out and we got half of the hard work out of the way... Now, we have to work with the core to fit his galant's IC plumbing... It would be easy if the endtanks would point back towards the driver and passenger.. But its a challenge to work side to side... We got an idea, so we will hit on hit tomorrow morning...
 

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Here's the last of the pics... Still need some tweaking, but will work for now...
 

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One Last pic. Also:

Just to let you know, how I ran the pipes, if you're all considering it:

From my 2G TB Elbow, facing downward: All pipes are 2.5 inches
90* Bend (weld bov flange) -> (HUMP HOSE) ---> 90* bend facing downward(to the ground)
45* bend ----> 90* bend ---> 90* bend

Yes that part sounds like a lot of bends, but they were all chopped up a bit to make it as smooth flowing as possible.

From FMIC side of driver: Had to use pretty much 4 90* @ 2.25 inches.

You will need one reducer 2.25 - 2.5 for the FMIC(if you do it that way)

2.5 inches would've needed some chopping a bit to get it through the chassis wall near the radiator.

All of my Home Depot pipes will be replaced with RRE Cast Aluminum 90* Bends @ 2.25 by this week. Will show you a new pic later.

Sources:
www.jcwhitney.com UNDER SEARCH - put "U Bend" or click here: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-1020/c-10101

I bought the ones that were "SWAGED - EXPANDED" because of the ID & OD. Plus they were aluminized steel, compared to steel and a whole lot CHEAPER...

Then the HUMP HOSE, and REDUCER HOSE, and 3 FEET of RUBBER COUPLING was from RRE.

LASTLY T-BOLT CLAMPS. http://www.smartpages.com/co/wp/ind...CityZipAC=el+cajon&State=CA&ClearLevel=Cloud9
They were from $2.25 - $3.29 EACH depending on sizes.

COST:
Johnny Race Core: $195(shipped)
JCWhitney: $148 (shipped w/NEXT DAY DELIVERY) Can you tell I was very exited?
RRE: $183 (shipped)
FiberTech: $53 (picked up myself)
TOTAL COST: = $579

Wow, didn't even realized I spent that much. Anyways, I probably would've saved the $79 for all the express shipping, since I was in such a hurry for everything. So lets just say, it would be about less than $500 for a complete RACE CORE. Hope this helps, and didn't bore you guys.
 

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